|
Post by kawonda750 on Nov 25, 2017 11:33:48 GMT -5
Well, I fudged in an extra Ford regulator from my spares for the LC early conversion and lo and behold I get 9.1 volts at the brushes. Now, all I need is a good regulator. I have tried 4 already, all of which tested ok on the bench.
I considered just using the Ford one but there is no room to mount it with the stock air box in place.
Thanks to my friend LC for helping me out with this. I was just about at the end.
Now, who has a GOOD regulator?? I could buy a whole bike for what they are asking for an NOS one on ebay.
|
|
|
Post by lc on Nov 28, 2017 12:10:24 GMT -5
Perhaps the stock Kaw regulator has a very low voltage output when the bike is at rest?
You might want to run the bike with the Ford regulator to be sure the system works with a known good regulator..
J
|
|
|
Post by kawonda750 on Dec 1, 2017 10:46:06 GMT -5
Ok, it works with the Ford regulator but I want this to be stock. There is also no room to mount the Ford part with the airbox in anyway. Is there anything else that will work? Maybe one of the later ones? The Kawonda had a solid state honda regulator for the H2 engine that worked fine. I found NOS correct ones but I would have to sell Debbie to be able to afford one.
|
|
roadrash
2nd Gear
10 McNab St.E. Port Dover
Posts: 273
|
Post by roadrash on Dec 1, 2017 12:41:07 GMT -5
I have (I think)two more of those.Come and get it Bro.You can meet your new Grand Niece.
|
|
|
Post by kawonda750 on Dec 1, 2017 13:02:05 GMT -5
I assume you are telling me it would work.?
|
|
roadrash
2nd Gear
10 McNab St.E. Port Dover
Posts: 273
|
Post by roadrash on Dec 1, 2017 16:00:46 GMT -5
It worked on the Kawonda.You might have to get Honda page from the manual to check it.This check is about thirty steps so a photo copy would help.
|
|
|
Post by lc on Dec 2, 2017 2:00:50 GMT -5
You will need a regulator that controls the rotating field strength (it's a rotating electro magnet).
If your kawonda had a permanent magnet rotor it's regulator will not work as this simply dumps excess voltage produced by the stator to ground.
I wonder if you could install the zener diode (and circuitry) into the case of a stock regulator. As I recall Blue Streak regulators are not potted and could be robbed for the components. Once done be sure to pot the modified OEM box to protect the circuit from vibes.
A quick Google of a zenor diode regulator shows the diode and possibly 1 or 2 resistors (very simple)
This will get rid of the old kaw points junk and give you a new solid state reg that looks stock!
J
|
|
|
Post by lc on Dec 2, 2017 3:12:57 GMT -5
As I recall you had a non potted regulator that failed? If so it likely has a broken wire in it and could be robbed of its components.
J
|
|
|
Post by kawonda750 on Dec 2, 2017 7:50:20 GMT -5
You will need a regulator that controls the rotating field strength (it's a rotating electro magnet). If your kawonda had a permanent magnet rotor it's regulator will not work as this simply dumps excess voltage produced by the stator to ground. I wonder if you could install the zener diode (and circuitry) into the case of a stock regulator. As I recall Blue Streak regulators are not potted and could be robbed for the components. Once done be sure to pot the modified OEM box to protect the circuit from vibes. A quick Google of a zenor diode regulator shows the diode and possibly 1 or 2 resistors (very simple) This will get rid of the old kaw points junk and give you a new solid state reg that looks stock! J The kawonda had a 72 H2 engine and electrics. So, would this Honda one work?
|
|
|
Post by lc on Dec 2, 2017 10:15:58 GMT -5
No. The h2 has a permanent magnet rotor that is a different system.
I wonder if the tension on the points spring gets weak with age in your old regulators? If so the points will open at a very low voltage and shut off the power to the field early.
As I recall the point spring is a thin piece of blue coloured spring steel..
Maybe try bending its base on the electro magnet side to aoply more tension to the breaker points?
Or maybe put a shim of something under the tang of the spring?
You will need to check your voltage across the battery with the bike running as this is the adjustment of the mechanical voltage regulator.
Just a thought. .
J
|
|
|
Post by kawonda750 on Dec 16, 2017 12:06:52 GMT -5
So, I have tried 5 different regulators with no satisfactory results. I am getting 9.9 and 10 V with the Ford reg and 2 with the Kaw ones. The Ford one is connected without the idiot light in the system so I tried bypassing the blue wires from Regulator and rectifier on the Kawasaki parts thinking there could be a problem there. No change. I have the plug to the alternator and the ground from the alternator for the brushes is good. I tried grounding the body of the regulator. No change. There is 12 V coming out of the regulator.
I am having a problem believing that 5 Kawasaki regulators are all bad.
Any other ideas?
|
|
|
Post by lc on Dec 16, 2017 14:37:17 GMT -5
Maybe have a look if the wire colours match at each side of the regulator to engine connector?
(Checking to be sure the connector has the appropriate wire in each position of the connector).
J
|
|