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Post by kawonda750 on Sept 4, 2017 10:12:33 GMT -5
Ok, since it's Labour Day and raining, I am back at this. If I put the volt meter on the brushes when the whole stator is not mounted I get 9.7 volts. When I move the stator into place, I get 2.6 V. The rotor does not seem to be rubbing the stator.New brushes are sitting nicely on the rotor. I have tried the known good rotor from the peacock with the same results as well as the Ari stator and brush block which worked well on my bike too.
Any ideas. I get around 9 V when I take the measurement on the peacock so assume that it should be about the same for this 69.
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Post by kawonda750 on Sept 4, 2017 10:14:02 GMT -5
The voltage drop happens when the stator is a little over half into position.
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Post by mraxl on Sept 4, 2017 13:30:22 GMT -5
Have you tried swapping regulators?
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Post by autofobe on Sept 5, 2017 6:56:17 GMT -5
I think I would take all the components off the peacock and put them on.You would be able to rule out the wireing.
Brad
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Post by kawonda750 on Sept 6, 2017 13:54:36 GMT -5
Have you tried swapping regulators? Yes. I have 2 that test ok with the ohmmeter.
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Post by kawonda750 on Sept 6, 2017 13:56:40 GMT -5
The rest can't be changed. The peacock has the LC Ford rectifier and regulator conversion. I did swap the rotor from it. The rebuilt stator and the rebuilt from Ari have been swapped too. The Ari one worked fine on the peacock.
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Post by kawonda750 on Sept 6, 2017 14:00:13 GMT -5
This is a 69 so I want it to be original equipment. I took the A and B boxes from the peacock and replaced them with one of Jim's units. But, that was for ignition which is separate. I am working on charging system now.
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Post by autofobe on Sept 6, 2017 20:19:20 GMT -5
Ok if the bike will run I would go back to the three stator checks.Make sure the battery is good & has a full charge. Check the ac output with the bike running by back probing the red meter lead into each of the yellow leads while the black meter lead has a good ground.all three readings should be very close.Ac range on the meter. Shut the bike down,disconect the stator & do the resistance checks between each of the yellows.Should see a resistance on all three not to high or low & no OL.Meter at the ohms setting. Now continunity check to a good ground on each of the yellows.should see no readings here just O.meter still on ohms. I don't care who rebuilt it or if it worked on other bikes.Without these checks you are not sure if its good. With all the heat stators are the most likely suspects in the charging system.check them first then go on from there to the next component. Brad
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Post by kawonda750 on Oct 28, 2017 12:09:11 GMT -5
Still have the problem. The battery is low because I ran the bike last weekend but I have 5.79 volts at the brushes with the key on and the stator about 1/8 inch from being in place. When I put it right into position, the voltage goes to 2.4 volts. The same thing happens with a fully charged battery. Something is grounding in that last 1/8 inch. 1) Could it be slight distortion of the stator body when it gets placed in the tabs? 2) Could the brushes bracket be bad somehow? The brushes are new and genuine mitsubishi . replaced as part of the stator rebuild.
The bike runs but the charging light stays on. I realize that the ignition system and charging system are separate but just wanted you to know that it does not charge as the charging light stays on.
Any more ideas?
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 12, 2017 11:14:07 GMT -5
I have tried everything that I can think of. NOS rotor, different regulators all tested good and I cleaned the points in them, rectifiers , all tested good. Different whole stator that works on the Peacock Jumper wires from the idiot light to the regulator and from the rectifier to regulator in case there is a problem with the harness. I took the key off the rotor to make sure it was not sitting a little to the side and shorting. It is a new repro wiring harness. battery is fully charged I have used the rotor fron the Peacock which works fine. I can't use its reg and rectifier because they are the Ford ones. Since this is a 69, I want it stock. All with the same results. 7 Volts when the stator is out about a quarter inch from its seat and when seated correctly 2.5 Volts. I put the wiring diagram in because I am wondering what the brown with white stripe wire is.? It is shown beside the light blue from the idiot light but with nothing plugged into it and sits free with a male end under the tank. Yes, I am grasping at straws but I am going crazy with this. The bike is basically complete now but this is the only roadblock.
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Post by III on Nov 12, 2017 11:28:05 GMT -5
Seem to recall the brown and blue wires went to the front brake lamp switch....
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 12, 2017 11:40:02 GMT -5
Front brake switch is red and blue. The one that seems to go nowhere is brown with white stripe.
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Post by autofobe on Nov 12, 2017 12:48:46 GMT -5
Sounds like a magnetic short in the rotor,when the stator gets close it activates the field.Did you check the stator under load with a 6 volt battery in series with the meter. Brad
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 12, 2017 14:11:39 GMT -5
Would these be enough to distort the stator body and cause contact between the stator and rotor? That seems to be the only logical way this would happen. I have used the rotor from my Peacock bike which works well.
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 12, 2017 14:12:50 GMT -5
Sorry, these are the measurements from the stator retainer things to the edge of the crankshaft.
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