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Post by autofobe on Nov 12, 2017 17:25:28 GMT -5
Is the crank bent or maybe the taper is off.
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Post by III on Nov 12, 2017 18:24:49 GMT -5
Is the crank bent or maybe the taper is off. I thought it only happened with the one rotor and worked OK with the other? Not the shaft if thats the case right?
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 13, 2017 6:40:33 GMT -5
Is the crank bent or maybe the taper is off. I don't think so Brad. It was rebuilt by NH Cycle. I would think he would notice something like that. When I kick it over the rotor looks to run true.
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 13, 2017 6:41:40 GMT -5
Is the crank bent or maybe the taper is off. I thought it only happened with the one rotor and worked OK with the other? Not the shaft if thats the case right? It doesn't work with any of 3 rotors . One is NOS. All bench test as good. One is from my peacock which works fine on that bike but not on this one.
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Post by zambia on Nov 13, 2017 8:28:51 GMT -5
You might need to bribe LC - dust off the spare bed and get some nice Creemore Lager in the fridge...
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 13, 2017 17:30:06 GMT -5
He offered to come up but we were going out that night.
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 13, 2017 17:32:06 GMT -5
If I put a piece of paper around the rotor and then put the stator on, would that be enough to insulate it and prove that the stator is indeed grounding on the rotor?
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Post by lc on Nov 14, 2017 0:58:29 GMT -5
Do you have the green and black wires connected to the proper terminals of the brush block?
The black terminal has (or should have) direct continuity to the rotor case /ground. The green wire's terminal connects only to the rotor through its associated brush.
With the stator installed on the engine disconnect the wires to the brushes. Now use an ohm meter between the now open terminals. It should have about 6 or so ohms. (You are now checking the resistance of the rotor through both the brushes)
Try from the green wire terminal to ground. This should again have the same reading as above.
Now try from the black terminal to ground (stator case). This should have zero ohms.
J
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Post by lc on Nov 14, 2017 2:38:25 GMT -5
Something else to consider:
The contacts within the ignition switch do deteriorate. Should there be corrosion etc on the contacts they will have unwanted resistance,especially when a load us applied.
The switch can be opened up and cleaned by removing the rubber boot to access where the bakelite back is (where the wires are soldered on). You can bend the metal case crimps open to access and clean the contacts. Maybe use some 400 grit on the plate and triangle contacts and final clean with alcohol?
J
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 14, 2017 15:58:48 GMT -5
Do you have the green and black wires connected to the proper terminals of the brush block? The black terminal has (or should have) direct continuity to the rotor case /ground. The green wire's terminal connects only to the rotor through its associated brush. With the stator installed on the engine disconnect the wires to the brushes. Now use an ohm meter between the now open terminals. It should have about 6 or so ohms. (You are now checking the resistance of the rotor through both the brushes) Try from the green wire terminal to ground. This should again have the same reading as above. Now try from the black terminal to ground (stator case). This should have zero ohms. J Instead of breaking the soldered connections to the brushes, can I just unplug the the leads to the regulator? Debbie did such a nice solder job on my NOS brush block.
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Post by lc on Nov 14, 2017 18:01:51 GMT -5
Sure.
That will check the integrity of the wiring from the connector to the rotor and on to ground...
J
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 14, 2017 18:44:46 GMT -5
K. Thanks Scott.
I will do the checks on the weekend. I am beginning to think that there may be a problem with the cases. I hate to think about taking the whole engine apart and changing cases. But, first things first...
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Post by lc on Nov 16, 2017 2:39:48 GMT -5
Btw The green wire from the voltage regulator connects to the upper terminal of the brush block.
The black wire connects to the lower terminal.
J
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 18, 2017 13:45:58 GMT -5
Do you have the green and black wires connected to the proper terminals of the brush block? The black terminal has (or should have) direct continuity to the rotor case /ground. The green wire's terminal connects only to the rotor through its associated brush. With the stator installed on the engine disconnect the wires to the brushes. Now use an ohm meter between the now open terminals. It should have about 6 or so ohms. (You are now checking the resistance of the rotor through both the brushes) Try from the green wire terminal to ground. This should again have the same reading as above. Now try from the black terminal to ground (stator case). This should have zero ohms. J Green to black : 5.5 ohms Green to stator body : 5.5 ohms Black to stator body ground 0.4 ohms
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Post by lc on Nov 18, 2017 13:51:53 GMT -5
Those values sound correct.
Have a look for proper grounding from the black terminal at the brush block to the stator housing. This should be 0 ohms.
Maybe compare the values you are getting to the peacock...
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