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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 15, 2017 11:53:24 GMT -5
Early, early H1. I have juice to the brushes when the stator is off but when I put it on there is none. Bad rotor? Bad brushes? The stator is the rebuilt one. I even tried it with Ari's rebuilt one which I know is good because I tried it last fall.
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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 15, 2017 14:28:40 GMT -5
As soon as it touches the rotor, the test light goes out.
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Post by mraxl on Apr 15, 2017 14:56:26 GMT -5
I'd like to help but what you have said so far doesn't make sense or lacks detail. Look at www.kawatriple.com/wiring/h1pointeuro.jpgZoom in on the A C Alternator. With key on, engine NOT running, you should have battery voltage on the green wire/brush. When the brush meets the rotor the voltage will drop because a load is being applied but it shouldn't go to zero. The condition of the battery will determine just how much drop there is.... the weaker the battery, the more drop there will be. Using a test light won't get it... use a meter! Is this the point (wire) where you are saying the juice is gone?
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Post by mraxl on Apr 15, 2017 16:02:27 GMT -5
On another note... If the battery voltage exceeds the set point of the regulator the voltage on the green wire/brush should drop to zero. The brush will only have voltage on it IF the regulator sees that the battery needs to be charged.
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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 15, 2017 19:16:21 GMT -5
I'd like to help but what you have said so far doesn't make sense or lacks detail. Look at www.kawatriple.com/wiring/h1pointeuro.jpgZoom in on the A C Alternator. With key on, engine NOT running, you should have battery voltage on the green wire/brush. When the brush meets the rotor the voltage will drop because a load is being applied but it shouldn't go to zero. The condition of the battery will determine just how much drop there is.... the weaker the battery, the more drop there will be. Using a test light won't get it... use a meter! Is this the point (wire) where you are saying the juice is gone? At the exit from the regulator ( green Wire) I have 9.6 Volts. With the stator off the bike, I have 9.6 volts at the brushes. When I put the stator over the rotor, the voltage drops to 0. I tested on my 70 and I get 9.6 v at the brushes with key on and it not running.
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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 15, 2017 19:17:58 GMT -5
On another note... If the battery voltage exceeds the set point of the regulator the voltage on the green wire/brush should drop to zero. The brush will only have voltage on it IF the regulator sees that the battery needs to be charged. With the key on and bike not running, there is still the necessity of having voltage at the brushes to make it run.
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Post by mraxl on Apr 15, 2017 19:26:02 GMT -5
"With the key on and bike not running, there is still the necessity of having voltage at the brushes to make it run."
To make the engine run? NOT SO! The engine will run without the stator or rotor.
Exactly what problem are you trying to fix? Is it a charging issue or that the engine won't start/run?
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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 15, 2017 19:28:10 GMT -5
There is no spark until I connect a battery directly to the brushes
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Post by mraxl on Apr 15, 2017 19:59:38 GMT -5
On the early H1/A the brushes, rotor, & stator have nothing to do with spark. As long as the CDI box has battery power (via brown wire from ign switch) a spark should occur every time the pickup has an iron part (trigger rotor) passed by it. The ignition system consist of CDI boxes, pickup, ignition coil, distributor.
Any problem you might have with voltage on the brushes would be a charging problem NOT ignition. The only problem that would be common to both would possibly be a ground problem.... battery (-) to frame, engine.
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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 17, 2017 14:55:44 GMT -5
OK, thanks for the information. Then, at this point, I want to fix the charging issue first. There is about 9 volts at the brushes when the key is on and the stator is not mounted but, when I slip it over the rotor , the voltage goes to nothing. The stator and brushes are good and I have tried another stator and brushes which was re-wound by North here and worked well on my bike with the same result.
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Post by North on Apr 18, 2017 15:09:46 GMT -5
As soon as it touches the rotor, the test light goes out. Sounds like the rotor coil is going to ground (insulation breakdown) to me.
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Post by North on Apr 18, 2017 15:11:57 GMT -5
I should have said rotor coil or slip rings are going to ground... sorry getting old 😳😎
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Post by III on Apr 18, 2017 15:16:34 GMT -5
I should have said rotor coil or slip rings are going to ground... sorry getting old 😳😎 GETTING??
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Post by North on Apr 18, 2017 15:18:29 GMT -5
I should have said rotor coil or slip rings are going to ground... sorry getting old 😳😎 GETTING??Pot, meet kettle 😉👍
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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 18, 2017 15:28:33 GMT -5
GETTING?? Pot, meet kettle 😉👍 Ah, you're both kids. BTW Ari, that stator looks so nice I don't want to use it. I'm keeping it for a rainy day. Which actually is almost every weekend this year.
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