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Post by rocket on Jan 11, 2012 19:19:56 GMT -5
I can also see a little bearing slip on the crank end bearings....I think some high temp bearing retainer loctite should solve that one? Here we go again!! Done correctly this is a must, done incorrectly and catastrophe awaits... see previous threads . I would Don is right . Just check my build if you want to see how to do it wrong Just look up ( Revive The Five ) in the project's section
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Post by lc on Jan 11, 2012 20:21:17 GMT -5
Rocket, As I recall, it looked like you may have put a blob of loctite on the crankcase saddles and then dropped the crank into it. Was there much of a delay on getting the cases closed and torqued? (I'm thinking the loctite set up before the case was torqued which cased the excessive loctite thickness/ crush of the bearings).
J
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Post by jqmce on Jan 25, 2012 16:11:46 GMT -5
Well I'm going to give this triple Crank rebuild a go and see what i can learn. Its not about being cheap its about broadening my skill set and learning. Why... Because its fun. I have made a Jig to do it but i'm still "crapping my daks". If anyone has any thoughts or advice before, during or after i do this please feel free to yell at me. I will post more pics as i screw things up......
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Post by JA-Moo on Jan 25, 2012 21:11:34 GMT -5
One of the factories did it that way actually.......
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Post by jqmce on Jan 27, 2012 8:43:32 GMT -5
Well i got the crank split (Wo Hoo) with no issues but that's the easy part. Next all new bearings seals etc. I'm nervous about the reassembly keeping everything square but we shall see. Has anyone tried the cold shaft / hot web technique for reassembly or is there a reason why people don't use this method on cranks? I guess ill find out this weekend.
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Post by Walms on Jan 27, 2012 8:47:00 GMT -5
I've never been a fan of heating things up but if you happen to have some liquid nitrogen kicking around, go for it!
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Post by rocket on Jan 27, 2012 11:56:59 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2012 12:06:01 GMT -5
nice work !
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Post by lc on Jan 27, 2012 14:10:14 GMT -5
NEAT STUFF! Nice to see someone take on such a project! FWIW, Reproduction decals sells new shaft sleeves (they tend to groove from wear of the seal lips). J
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2012 15:10:07 GMT -5
what are you going to do about the spinning bearing, besides loctite or bearing fit? Since Loctite is deemed so "dangerous", should I open up my engines and scrape it all out before I start riding again? Or after 15000 hard KM, should I be ok?
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Post by Walms on Jan 27, 2012 15:43:36 GMT -5
what are you going to do about the spinning bearing, besides loctite or bearing fit? Since Loctite is deemed so "dangerous", should I open up my engines and scrape it all out before I start riding again? Or after 15000 hard KM, should I be ok? 100% Donnie, tear her down and do it properly... ;D Let me know if there is a good fix to repair cases with a spun bearing... I have a set with this issue I couldn't think of anything better then align boring and freezing the bearings into inserts.
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Post by Jim on Jan 27, 2012 17:21:27 GMT -5
If anyone has any thoughts or advice before, during or after i do this please feel free to yell at me. Have you seen the crank rebuilding manual on the resource site? On the main page, under "Manuals" it's called "Crank Rebuild Manual".
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Post by tripletriplenut on Jan 27, 2012 17:44:31 GMT -5
that bearing has not spun. if it had spun the bearing would have to lock up the balls and would spin the smaller race on the shaft first (less contact area then the larger outer race). the marks are from the cases clamping the bearing. i have hundreds that look exactly like it. if you are worried clamp the cases together with out the crank. measure the bearing bore in question then measure the bearing outer diameter then do the same for one that is next to it. see what the difference is?
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Post by JA-Moo on Jan 27, 2012 21:13:04 GMT -5
what are you going to do about the spinning bearing, besides loctite or bearing fit? Since Loctite is deemed so "dangerous", should I open up my engines and scrape it all out before I start riding again? Or after 15000 hard KM, should I be ok? There are the bearings that come with neoprene bands on the outside, or grooves can be cut for O rings. The thing with loctite is you have to know what you are doing, be very careful, use sparingly, and assemble very quickly. And it can still cause trouble. Sometime one gets lucky, sometimes they don't. It's obvious on the bad crank there was wayyyy too much loctite. Lessons learned. If you have that many miles, you should be ok. But ,if you have an early failure, then, at least you have a clue to the cause.
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Post by jqmce on Jan 27, 2012 22:12:34 GMT -5
Thanks for all the info guys. holy crap when you guys get going I love the banter. I think I'm going to do a test fit and see if i will need a little 620 or not. I have used it many times for my work successfully but never in an engine so....... You can actually buy most standard bearings with the "N" classification and it will have a slot same as 6305N...sound familiar? it should. This would enable a viton o-ring but shit you would have to get the o-ring size damn perfect for the squish. Ironically enough when i disassembled the crank i found all seals perfect and bearings in relatively good condition, but if you don't do it you may regret it....I seem to remember being told this by some fellas recently on this post. I almost forgot, i sent my burnt selector forks out to Don in the Sue so I'm super excited to get them back and shim her up. (another learning experience for sure) Rocket, Shit mate i almost cried its a sad story but it has a happy ending so lesson learned and great info for anyone attempting this. thank you. Cheers guys Jules
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