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Post by kawonda750 on Dec 19, 2021 7:17:32 GMT -5
The difference between the 2 brake plates is the mounting of the stay. The cable one which is on the Wanna B has the stay mounted right on the plate. The KH has it on an arm that protrudes below the plate. If I disconnect the stay but leave the axle nut tight, the bike rolls. It does not roll when I connect the stay.
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Post by kawonda750 on Dec 19, 2021 10:11:52 GMT -5
I may be slow but I'm also stubborn. I think the whole brake plate is wrong. The parts list shows both early and late H1 brake plates with the arm for the steady to mount to. The one on this bike does not have it. Anyone know what this one is from ??
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Post by kawonda750 on Dec 19, 2021 13:22:43 GMT -5
It could be an A7 plate. Looking at the parts diagram for it, there is no extra arm that the stay mounts to.
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H1 wanna B
Dec 19, 2021 14:58:20 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lc on Dec 19, 2021 14:58:20 GMT -5
It is definitely NOT an early H1 plate. The H1s have an extension where the torque rod connects with a removable bolt.
I'd say its of an S series bike.
You have found the problem. It's width at the axle is wrong for the your H1 setup.
J
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Post by kawonda750 on Dec 19, 2021 16:21:44 GMT -5
I think you're right about the S. He sent a stator and a couple other parts for an S thinking they were for the H1.
This guy knew nothing about H1s and I am the recipient of a bunch of useless stuff.
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Post by kawonda750 on Dec 31, 2021 13:14:40 GMT -5
It's amazing how the correct parts make a difference. I got the right brake plate and the wheel actually turns when the axle nut is tight. Of course, being the gut I am, I did screw up on the brake mechanism. The early H1s used a cable and the pedal is mounted on a post. I got the later set up and found that it works with a swivel post that goes through a hole in the frame. So, it's rigging time. I got 3/16 rod and heated and bent it a few times and made this brake rod. I am now a custom builder.... I will put another bend in it at the pedal when I go to mount it. I will thread the adjuster end when my local garage opens next week.
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Post by Walms on Dec 31, 2021 15:59:06 GMT -5
It won't be fair to the ladies now Dave... A custom B is better than a wanna B
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Post by autofobe on Jan 2, 2022 21:40:53 GMT -5
Ya the early h1 brake plate is easy identifiable with the chrome vents and cable brake. Glad your getting it sorted.
Brad
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 23, 2022 10:25:05 GMT -5
Finally. I have been waiting for my crankshaft since early December and it is done. Picking it up in Collingwood on Sunday so final assembly is next week !!
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 27, 2022 13:50:08 GMT -5
<a href='https://postimg.cc/rKcWwmxk' target='_blank'><img src='https://i.postimg.cc/rKcWwmxk/H1-B-crankshaft.jpg' border='0' alt='H1-B-crankshaft'/></a>
Picked it up today in Collingwood. Nh Cycle Jeff has a place there so he brought it with him. Saved me about $80 in gas to go to get it. It was in great shape except for the inner seals. Cases are now buttoned up. I should have the rest back together tomorrow. Celebration time....
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 27, 2022 13:55:56 GMT -5
Ooops. Real pic
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Post by kawonda750 on Jun 23, 2022 15:47:44 GMT -5
Another in the extremely long line of things that have gone wrong with this bike. I finally have the low down jetting seemingly right and one carb will not idle down. It is drawing a 5 1/2 while the other two are at 3 on the vacuum gauge. The idle screw is turned all the way down and the cable adjuster is at the bottom. Looking at the throttle cable it seems that the cable protruding at the bottom of the outside sheath is shorter than the other two. The throttle cable popped out one time and the slide went right down.
This happened to me on the FBG 750 that I did for a friend last year. I had gotten it from Z-1 in calif because Andre and Ellen were out of stock. I am pretty sure that the last one was also from Z-1.
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Post by Walms on Jun 24, 2022 5:38:27 GMT -5
Is it possible 1 cable is hung up in the 1 into 3 cable union? Otherwise, that's a pretty big mistake by the manufacturer!
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Post by kawonda750 on Jun 24, 2022 7:36:14 GMT -5
I did check that too Andrew.
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Post by zambia on Jun 24, 2022 8:20:05 GMT -5
I have "adjusted" all 3 cables to make them fit my 38's.. gently, gently pull the sheathing out of the chrome crimp ring. Then cut through the sheathing and underlying coiled metal, with a Dremel and cut-off wheel. You'll need your best glasses in order to not cut the inner cable. But if you take 1/4" or 1/2" off that then slide the crimp ring back on, you're good to go.
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