|
Post by dlynam - KH400 on May 11, 2007 7:34:19 GMT -5
I have had a very hard time removing studs from a KH400 case...only got 2 removed and used a lot of heat and vice grips...and this was with an empty case....still sitting on my garage floor....
|
|
|
Post by Walms on May 11, 2007 21:59:50 GMT -5
I'd consider the tap route at this point... 5/8-11 UNC. It might seem drastic but you won't see it with the motor assembled.
|
|
|
Post by zambia on May 11, 2007 22:34:38 GMT -5
It seems that may be my only option. The only problem is, the cylinder is so high up, the studs are no longer in the top part of the opening and the "pusher" bolt would not reach the stud...hmmm.
|
|
|
Post by lc on May 11, 2007 22:53:58 GMT -5
It seems that may be my only option. The only problem is, the cylinder is so high up, the studs are no longer in the top part of the opening and the "pusher" bolt would not reach the stud...hmmm. I think what Walms is referring to is tapping the stud bore holes (in the cylinder) with a 5/8 NC tap and then a four 5/8 bolts can be threaded down on top of the studs to drive the cylinder up. If you are considering cutting the studs and twisting the cylinder off you may twist the rods too. J
|
|
|
Post by zambia on May 11, 2007 23:13:00 GMT -5
Yes, I thought so...but the cylinder is halfway up, to the point where the studs are in the skinny part of the hole. If I tap the hole, I'll have to go really deep, is that OK?
|
|
|
Post by Walms on May 12, 2007 6:55:28 GMT -5
This is what I was thinking...
|
|
|
Post by Rick on May 12, 2007 20:31:40 GMT -5
Question: will the top area of the piston hold fluid? Zep tub and tile cleaner will eat rust...
Or electrolosis is another option...
|
|
|
Post by zambia on May 12, 2007 20:43:58 GMT -5
Yup, it holds fluid..I've left PB Blaster in there for days. I'll try that stuff, what the heck. It really feels like a mechanical hang-up now. the cylinder walls are clean and smooth ant the studs and bolt holes are corrossion free.
|
|
|
Post by lc on May 12, 2007 23:37:51 GMT -5
Yup, it holds fluid..I've left PB Blaster in there for days. I'll try that stuff, what the heck. It really feels like a mechanical hang-up now. the cylinder walls are clean and smooth ant the studs and bolt holes are corrossion free. If you force it with a pusher tool, you will probably wreck your valued piston (break a ring land etc) if you feel it is now a mechanical hangup. Can you gently drive the cylinder back down and continue adding a lube until it comes free by working it up and down? Can you see if a broken ring is hanging up in the ex port (or intake) that you could push back in its groove through the port? If you get it loose enough, you might try cutting your studs as you first though and GENTLY twist the cylinder by hand hopefully withdrawing the obstruction (ring, circlip or piston pin). Just a thought.... J
|
|
|
Post by Walms on May 13, 2007 10:16:43 GMT -5
I'm a bit confused... did the piston move a bit then get stuck or was it stuck from the beginning? I assumed you got the barrel loose and the piston was at the bottom of the stroke, allowing you to raise the barrel off the case by an inch.
|
|
|
Post by Walms on May 24, 2007 11:55:54 GMT -5
bump... How goes the battle?
|
|
|
Post by zambia on May 24, 2007 13:42:37 GMT -5
Still losing. And now I'm frustrated because I have nearly everything I need to put this damn thing together....Sorry to confuse, but what happened is this: the crank is stuck, so the pistons don't move. Right side and centre jugs came off with a lot of penetrant and whacking a piece of wood in the exhaust port. Left side started to come off the same way....came up about an inch and stopped moving. So, I pushed it back down and started again. Tried this twice, but the third time, the bugger got stuck GOOD It won't go up or down. I know I'll need crank rebuild and bearings...got a price from NH Cycle. But I wanted to save these very rare pistons. The trouble is, the cylinder now sits too high to reach the studs. Triplenut thinks the rings are stuck in the transfers...sounds true, but merde! What now?
|
|
|
Post by Walms on May 24, 2007 14:11:34 GMT -5
Sounds like a real PIA!!! As the saying goes...What goes up, must come down. If the ring is broken and protruding into the port, the piston should be able to move the height of the port... Maybe you could flip the motor and try the penetrating oil from the bottom side of the piston. You can use the other barrel and piston to find out where the rings are compared to the ports... I'm running out of ideas.
|
|
|
Post by zambia on May 28, 2007 12:40:44 GMT -5
OK...that's it! I'm going to try and yank it off with a puller (the cylinder...c'mon). I'll tap 2 headbolt holes (5/8??) put a puller on there and twist it onto a piece of hardwood on top of the piston. Something will give...I swear. Should I use heat? I've only got propane, is this a waste of time? Has anyone tried this stunt? It's like your drawing Andrew, except I'm only pushing the piston, not the engine cylinder studs (smart idea to deflect the force to the perimeter...not sure how I'll do that yet). If something breaks...look here soon for many, many bargains on S3 parts.
|
|
|
Post by zambia on Jun 5, 2007 22:48:23 GMT -5
It's off! That stinking third cylinder is off. Yanked off with a modified puller (like Andrew showed). I can't believe it worked, I actually can't believe I tapped the holes etc. without something getting fubarred..anyway, thanks for the help all. The piston looks fine, rings are really stuck deep in the grooves, but i've heard they can come out. The bore has quite a bit of rust, but so did the others, and I cleaned them up with emery. So now to remove the crank...which by the way, began to turn during all the hammering! Whoohoo!
ian
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
|
|