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Post by Curtis on Jul 29, 2018 6:17:05 GMT -5
He isn’t here to have his choice of handlebars discussed.
I would go slightly leaner in the pilot circuit - revving up and going through the gears sounds OK through the video. I don’t know how close SooperArthur is to you, but I know he is a wealth of knowledge and might be able to help you in person - you should PM him on here
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Post by III on Jul 29, 2018 6:39:30 GMT -5
He isn’t here to have his choice of handlebars discussed. Quit being such a dick Curtis.... hahahaha Is he anywhere near Ballvo?
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Post by Curtis on Jul 29, 2018 6:43:01 GMT -5
He isn’t here to have his choice of handlebars discussed. Quit being such a dick Curtis.... hahahaha Is he anywhere near Ballvo? That’s Richard to you...... 😂😂
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Post by soflah2b on Jul 29, 2018 9:16:24 GMT -5
Have checked carb sync?
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Post by Curtis on Jul 29, 2018 9:43:57 GMT -5
Carb sync only affects smoothness of idle - not a rich condition
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Post by zambia on Jul 29, 2018 15:01:56 GMT -5
I don't hear even a hint of 4 stroking....I'll see if I can find a video of mine with some of that on it. When your throttle closes it might surge just a tiny bit...other than that - like Jim said, I would call it normal!
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Post by Jim on Jul 29, 2018 23:25:11 GMT -5
And surging is very normal on the early H2s. I embrace it on my H2.
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Post by roco on Aug 25, 2018 4:09:15 GMT -5
My experience with my 74 h2b after a full overhaul was, I had the cylinder heads modified to have an 18mm squish band, this will stop it pinking on th fuel we have these days ,during running in it ran like a dog, next I bought a kit from Ivan's ( the best investment you will make) used his data for a start, ran the bike in then tried to make it run real nice , left the idle jets as is , added 1.5mm to slide cutaway, lowered the needle position one slot and ended up going to 97.5 on the main jet ( it runs slightly nicer on 95 main jets,) changed the plugs to 8s because they were running too cold even at constant speeds of 60/65 mph. I run a 3 outlet pump straight to the main bearings nothing to the carbs ( after the valves were cleaned seated and new balls and springs were fitted, then set at 5psi leak pressure) everybody said it wouldn't work but 9000mile proves a point. Stock rubber air boot and K/N oiled filter up one tooth on the front sprocket and the list goes on. Make sure the timing is correct on all 3 cylinders a plug hole dial gauge Is best. And timing light. The first thing you have to know is which part of the slide position you are in Mark 1/4 1/2 3/4 on your throttle tube making sure you take the slack out Then you need to know if its surging or 4 stroking ( if your not all that two stroke savy its time to employ a two stroke tuner) Take the bike for a run and where its running badly look at the throttle position and hold it in that position for at least one km (providing its not running lean and pinking) hit the stop button and pull a plug and it will tell the story, look at the graph above and adjust the relevant jetting it can be a slow and tedious job because one adjustment slightly affects another make small steps because you wont fix it by just changing one jet it is slow but rewarding when your Kawaka starts easy runs nicely and goes like a cut c_t THe bike now has over 14000 km 9000mile on it and does about 180 km (120 mile) to a tank ,will run all day at 140km /90mile per hour and loves it. Any body want more info just reply
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Post by roco on Aug 25, 2018 4:13:22 GMT -5
My experience with my 74 h2b after a full overhaul was, I had the cylinder heads modified to have an 18mm squish band, this will stop it pinking on th fuel we have these days ,during running in it ran like a dog, next I bought a kit from Ivan's ( the best investment you will make) used his data for a start, ran the bike in then tried to make it run real nice , left the idle jets as is , added 1.5mm to slide cutaway, lowered the needle position one slot and ended up going to 97.5 on the main jet ( it runs slightly nicer on 95 main jets,) changed the plugs to 8s because they were running too cold even at constant speeds of 60/65 mph. I run a 3 outlet pump straight to the main bearings nothing to the carbs ( after the valves were cleaned seated and new balls and springs were fitted, then set at 5psi leak pressure) everybody said it wouldn't work but 9000mile proves a point. Stock rubber air boot and K/N oiled filter up one tooth on the front sprocket and the list goes on. Make sure the timing is correct on all 3 cylinders a plug hole dial gauge Is best. And timing light. The first thing you have to know is which part of the slide position you are in Mark 1/4 1/2 3/4 on your throttle tube making sure you take the slack out Then you need to know if its surging or 4 stroking ( if your not all that two stroke savy its time to employ a two stroke tuner) Take the bike for a run and where its running badly look at the throttle position and hold it in that position for at least one km (providing its not running lean and pinking) hit the stop button and pull a plug and it will tell the story, look at the graph above and adjust the relevant jetting it can be a slow and tedious job because one adjustment slightly affects another make small steps because you wont fix it by just changing one jet it is slow but rewarding when your Kawaka starts easy runs nicely and goes like a cut c_t THe bike now has over 14000 km 9000mile on it and does about 180 km (120 mile) to a tank ,will run all day at 140km /90mile per hour and loves it. Any body want more info just reply
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Post by 6of1halfoftheother on Aug 26, 2018 11:40:12 GMT -5
I got a kit from Ivan 2 weeks ago. I went with the needle clip in the #2 position, pilots 97.5, main jet 107.5 It didnt really help the problem it just deadened the tone a bit. I tried 95s before. I was going to try 92.5s to see what happens but the ones I picked up were not genuine and the sizes of the holes were all out of wack, so I didnt even try them. Problem is between 3-3500 rpm.So that's about 1/8 to 1/4 . It is running a bit rich.
Did you look at my video on page 2 of this topic? It's from before I installed Ivan's kit. When I hold my phone down by the exhaust you will hear the problem best I am having. Bike only does it after it warms up.
Some say this is normal of some H2s but it is not normal to this bike, It just started one day. Sounds like shit to me and it is a bit embarrassing.
Timing was set with a caliper and all the marks line up good. I have yet to check it with a timing light but will when I get a bit more time. Give the video a listen. Thank.
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Post by zambia on Aug 26, 2018 13:44:35 GMT -5
You might dial some of that out by performing a very careful carb sync. 4 stroking has more of a rrrrr-brah, brah-rrrrrr sound. I only hear a faint bit of surging. 4 stroking is usually a result over carburation - rich at small throttle openings. Your set up does not sound at all like it should be rich (I assume you mean you have 37.5 pilots not 97.5). Poor carb sync can cause some weird rattle when "off load".
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4 stroking
Aug 26, 2018 13:57:08 GMT -5
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III likes this
Post by Curtis on Aug 26, 2018 13:57:08 GMT -5
I still stand behind my statement that if it just started one day - it’s not carb problems I don’t believe you will get any results that you are seeking from a carb sync or from changing any more jetting. Don’t try and fix and electrical problem by changing your fuel..... Maybe try PMing Ballvo or Sooperarthur on here - they are both your way and a second set of eyes and ears may help out.
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Post by zambia on Aug 26, 2018 18:56:29 GMT -5
It just started one day after taking off and oiling the filters. The video gives no hint of any electrical issue...maybe twisting off the filters introduced an air leak as Walms suggested a few pages back.
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4 stroking
Aug 26, 2018 19:22:48 GMT -5
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Post by Curtis on Aug 26, 2018 19:22:48 GMT -5
It’s rich not lean - which could be an indication of poor spark in one cylinder
You can get a cheapie infrared thermometer from Canadian tire and compare each pipe and see which one is running fat
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4 stroking
Aug 30, 2018 20:32:31 GMT -5
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Post by 6of1halfoftheother on Aug 30, 2018 20:32:31 GMT -5
It’s rich not lean - which could be an indication of poor spark in one cylinder You can get a cheapie infrared thermometer from Canadian tire and compare each pipe and see which one is running fat
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