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Post by motocon on Nov 28, 2017 7:35:43 GMT -5
Ok so looks like the crank is in need of some TLC!
Can anyone recommend a crank guy.....
I emailed Dave Singleton but was hoping to find someone in Ontario.
Thanks
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Post by Walms on Nov 28, 2017 9:59:28 GMT -5
Some here might recommend NH Cycle in New Hamburg but not me. I'd try contacting board member LC to see if he's setup for it yet.
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Post by motocon on Nov 28, 2017 13:05:49 GMT -5
Ok will do..... I hear their is a guy in NorthBay that does them. Dick Edworthy?? Waiting on contact info now.
Appreciate the contact info .
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Post by motocon on Nov 29, 2017 14:34:41 GMT -5
Some here might recommend NH Cycle in New Hamburg but not me. I'd try contacting board member LC to see if he's setup for it yet. FYI LC is not ready to start taking on outside work.
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Post by autofobe on Nov 29, 2017 18:19:25 GMT -5
There is a performance shop just north of Peterborough that did all Steve Browns cranks for racing.Including tz and triple cranks.There are a lot of triple two stroke sleds out there.Any reputable sled shop should be able to tell you who does their work. Brad
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Post by motocon on Nov 29, 2017 20:34:48 GMT -5
Thanks Brad....I live in Northern Ontario and am hoping to find someone that does sled cranks. It sounds like a bit of a dying art at the moment.
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Post by motocon on Dec 4, 2017 21:15:06 GMT -5
Ok looks like I have a guy locally that will do the crank. When I look at Kawasaki.com for parts it shows the bottom of the crank as one assembly. Where can I source the parts for my crank?? Bearings and seals??? Can I just go to the dealer? Can I source somewhere else? Ebay store? Online Vintage dealer?
Thanks guys!
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Post by motocon on Dec 5, 2017 21:59:19 GMT -5
Can someone confirm these bearing numbers for the crank? 6305 C3 (x5) 6305 NR (x1)
I am not having much luck for the rubber seals.....I have the left and right outer but not the inside ones. TC326210 TCY256210
Thank you
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Post by Walms on Dec 6, 2017 6:34:19 GMT -5
6305 C3 x3 only unless the extra 2 is for the tranny? If you are going the rubber seal route, I'd just buy a complete engine seal kit from Vesrah
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Post by motocon on Dec 7, 2017 20:23:45 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply........it looks like my crank as 6 bearings? 2 on the outsides of the crank and 4 on the inside. (2 between #1amd #2 separated by a seal and 2 between #2 and #3 separated by another seal)
I will look into Vesrah for seals.
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dickjny
2nd Gear
Wish the best to all my KTC, US & Canadian Triple rider friends! Dick J. - NY
Posts: 211
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Post by dickjny on Dec 7, 2017 22:37:42 GMT -5
motocon, - I once had an engine noise while out riding my 1970 R5 quite a ways from home. Called a friend and finally got his son to go to my house and get my car and trailer and come and pick up me and the bike. After splitting the case and looking all thru the engine & transmission I found nothing. Put it back together and rode it for 10+ years without every knowing why it made that noise.
Best of luck! Dick J. - NY
Drag racer - If you can't win, make your competition set a new record!
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Post by motocon on Dec 8, 2017 1:45:54 GMT -5
Dick,
I got the crank out and it is definitely the #4 bearing. There was some soft metal in the bottom of the case and it looks and sounds like some of it got into the bearing or the bearing has failed. When I spin that bearing it is rough and makes the suspect noise. I am glad I found it because I was starting to think I had done all this for nothing!!
I am learning as I go and working on these old Triples is half the fun.
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Post by Walms on Dec 8, 2017 6:16:18 GMT -5
It's a common crank bearing failure. The steel bearing cages let go. Btw, sorry, my bad on the number of bearings comment... lol
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Post by motocon on Dec 8, 2017 9:22:57 GMT -5
It's a common crank bearing failure. The steel bearing cages let go. Btw, sorry, my bad on the number of bearings comment... lol Good to know.....I am just really glad I tore it apart before it did any more damage.
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Post by Walms on Dec 8, 2017 10:02:37 GMT -5
While we are on the subject, it has been debated through oil discussions about synthetic oil not protecting against corrosion during the winter months as cheap ole dino oil. At any rate, corrosion in bearings causes more than usual vibration, couple that with high rpm and you increase the chances of cage failure. My personal theory is the rivets let go first. The picture below is of 2 x 6305 SKF bearings. Notice those rivets look beefier on one compared to the other. I wish I still had the bearing but I had one from NTN and also INA that had even more impressive looking rivets. Maybe if you are out to a bearing house to pickup your bearings, ask them if they have different brands that you can compare. On my last rebuild, I actually opted to go with bearings with polyamide cages as they are recommended over steel for vibration. Unfortunately they don't offer polyamide cages for the bearing with the snap-ring though. I only mention this because cranks are expensive to rebuild and you can only rebuild a crank so many times. Best to shoot for your best bet on longevity.
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