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Post by klnteg on Aug 1, 2017 16:53:39 GMT -5
Hey guys, Just got about 1.5 hours on my 75 H1, and I'm almost certain that I blew a rod. Top end still has great compression, but knocks . Any advice for the rebuild before I start to tear it down?
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Post by zambia on Aug 1, 2017 18:39:09 GMT -5
It's unusual for a rod itself to fail other than by hydrolock - so it could be a bearing...and hopefully a small-end bearing (although knock usually indicates either a big end bearing or a crank bearing). First thing to do it pull the barrel and check for small end bearing tolerance and then remove the piston and check side-play on the rod.
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Post by klnteg on Aug 1, 2017 19:43:18 GMT -5
Thanks Zambia When I tear down I'll report back! If it's just a bearing I won't need to replace the rods...?
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Post by Curtis on Aug 2, 2017 6:42:24 GMT -5
Thanks Zambia When I tear down I'll report back! If it's just a bearing I won't need to replace the rods...? It's dependant on what sort of shape the rods are in. If there is any sort of ratcheting on the rod, or damage from the bearing race, then replacement is needed
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Post by klnteg on Aug 2, 2017 19:00:50 GMT -5
Curtis, what do you mean ratcheting?
I have the heads off now and I can't determine excessive rod play either side to side or up and down...? Leads me to crank bearings? This is all kind of foreign to me... lol.. is next step pull motor and split cases?
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Post by Walms on Aug 2, 2017 19:21:00 GMT -5
Have you taken all the barrels off to inspect?
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Post by bolly on Aug 2, 2017 19:22:03 GMT -5
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Post by bolly on Aug 2, 2017 19:28:30 GMT -5
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Post by klnteg on Aug 2, 2017 19:28:56 GMT -5
Barrels are off
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Post by bolly on Aug 2, 2017 22:02:24 GMT -5
whatever the results of the inspections as per that .3cyl link are should point you in the right direction, crank runout non applicable at this time... if it passes all other inspection criterias and if the crank and all rods, rotor and distributer rotate freely through a couple revolutions, then you're gonna have think it may be time to split the cases... that is if you're positive you heard knock from the engine
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Post by Curtis on Aug 2, 2017 23:08:46 GMT -5
Fourth one - "ratcheting" is a term we used on heavy equipment some (most) haven't a clue bout that term, I usually forget to say "shit smeared into the rod" lol
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Post by Walms on Aug 3, 2017 3:50:56 GMT -5
It could be a noise from under the side covers as well, I'd take everything off before pulling the motor from the frame if it were me.
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Post by givr on Aug 3, 2017 4:11:33 GMT -5
+1 I had knocking on the h2 once and the stator magnet bolt had come loose.
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Post by shiloh on Aug 3, 2017 5:27:06 GMT -5
Im with the others on that, inspect everything before tearing down. A screw driver, handle to the ear and the business end placed on the engine were suspect may help isolate the problem area. Though you will hear everything, when you're close to the spot, it will sound the clearest/loudest.
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Post by klnteg on Aug 3, 2017 18:28:45 GMT -5
Ok here's where I'm at....
Top end is good!
Measured the rod side to side play all ranging from .015-.022. As for up and down play the rod virtually has no play up and down. Measured when they are centered.
Only thing I hear is when I turn the crank with wrench very slowly I hear a slight click noise. I know it's not the rods hitting the case. If I rotate crank back and forth I hear the clicking.... could this be ratcheting?
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