Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2017 15:20:39 GMT -5
Instead of messing around with original or at best old refurbished 40 year old shit I decided to go my own way. I purchased 3 new Yamaha oil injector check valves and am adapting those to my H2B converted to H2A engine oil system. The valves are common on many Yamaha 2 strokes employing oil injection . The pics are basically what I am intending but are a mock-up. I need to make barbs on the larger banjo which is from the pressed together H2 OEM check valve assy. The cracking PSI is bout the same plus the barbs on the H2 OEM smaller banjos matches up nicely with the Yamaha check valves. Yea I know it's like a transplant from one Asian to another and rice doesn't always taste the same. The best thing about this procedure is I am not at someone else's mercy, plus the cost is certainly palatable considering the alternatives. Seen them for under 15 US each. Suzuki guys use them too.
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Post by Walms on Jan 10, 2017 16:23:37 GMT -5
Those are nice and compact! Good alternative RT!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2017 21:31:26 GMT -5
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Post by sf on Jan 10, 2017 22:14:56 GMT -5
Interested how you make out👍
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2017 23:43:35 GMT -5
If I JB weld it, it would look like this, however it will become more work should the valve ever go jiggly bits-up. Also have to be extremely careful and put a spray can straw in the end while gluing so the stuff does not enter the oil passage
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Post by speedgeeza on Jan 11, 2017 12:11:51 GMT -5
Excellent timing. I need to do this, twice! I dragged my other h2 outta the corner of the garage last week with the idea of getting it rideable for the summer. Been stood for almost two years. When I turned the engine over it seemed, draggy... So I removed the left carb and managed to suck out 100ml of oil out of the crankcase with the aid of a pipe and syringe. The other two cylinders were dry.
This led me to researching the whole check valve issue again and nothing inspired me with confidence. But I really like the idea of replacing the whole assembly with a new item.
Would it be possible to press a brass plug into the banjo, then drill and tap? Thread the barb end to suit. With some loctite, I think it would be more than up to the job. Fiddly, precision job, but there seems no shortage of hand skills.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2017 19:06:15 GMT -5
You can do almost anything you like, even silver solder if that turns your crank. I used what was laying around my shop and your idea sounds just as good or maybe even easier. Just thread the fitting in with thread locker or sealant. The thing is the Yamasaki valves are small and can easily fit near the banjo for reduced after the check valve residual drip. I managed to use the old collars off the oil pump banjos and they fit like a glove with the tygon line so you might want to save those. If you have the check valve/banjo that appears to be one piece, it comes apart as it has a plug in the tail end. You can drill it out if you like.
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Post by sf on Jan 11, 2017 19:07:53 GMT -5
Darth might have some info
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Post by tankie on Jan 12, 2017 3:12:25 GMT -5
Typically what do these valves normally fit on ? I could not see the complete part number on the package
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2017 6:14:13 GMT -5
Yamaha PN 8CH-1316A-00-00 at $14-15 US, fits on sleds and other stuff. It's a generic part made for other applications so you could go to the Yamaha supplier I suppose. There are cheaper plastic check valves out there for outboards at about $11 US.Guys have used both of those on RG500s. Seems many vintage riders are in the same boat and have figured out how to deal with it effectively and cheaply.
Waverunner 1200XLT has cheaper plastic check valves that would work too as do many sleds employing oil injection. Some Yamaha and Suzuki products used NLA integrated carburetor or oil pump check valves so guys are pulling the guts and adding stand alone check valves. Lots of testing went on and the bottom line is valve pop-off setting does not affect oil flow as different products tested did vary from 2-5 PSI.
rt
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Post by tankie on Jan 13, 2017 4:35:49 GMT -5
Cheers for the number, I'm in the U.K so I'll see if they are available this side of the pond, Yep, this is a USA/ Canada part only, we don't have many snowmobiles over here
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
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Post by jyrgnorway on Jan 13, 2017 8:28:51 GMT -5
GREAT info, thank you for sharing!
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Post by JA-Moo on Jan 13, 2017 15:54:36 GMT -5
I guess you don't have the breaking pressure, it's probably close enough anyway.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2017 16:17:03 GMT -5
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Post by shiloh on Jan 13, 2017 18:34:13 GMT -5
Nice fix, and easy to maintain. If you`re still worried about after run flow, you can always install a feed-line on/off valve, though that`s just something else to remember to turn on/off. I put one on mine, can`t wait to see how many times I forget... lol
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