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Post by rocket on Jul 26, 2015 8:06:01 GMT -5
Well so far I have found a busted airbox which I have repaired and reinstalled . The damage was found after I removed the carbs thinking there was some water in the float bowls . None was found and just out of curiosity I removed the airbox to look for dirt and or blockage . I did this because the bike began to have a stutter at 3500 rpm and 5500 rpm and thinkin some sorta fuel problem being the issue . The bottom of the airbox had busted open and I found out on the connie forum it is because the K&N air filtre is a little bit bigger and forces the plastic to give . While trying to refire the bike and putting the gas cock on prime for one minute to refill the carbs , I could smell gas and then noticed on prime that the frikkin cock was leaking . Kinda like an old man . So I ordered a new rebuild kit . Supposedly the cons are famous for hydro lock and if I had not begun searching around for an engine stumble issue , I would not have found out that the petcock was friggerd . Guess things happen for a reason . I will be sendin the carbs down to Steve in sunny florida this winter to have overflow bleads installed on the carbs with a rejettin and rebuild setup . Some of the con owners are getting 50 mpg out of there bikes after a carb tune which is pretty impressive for a big heavy tank like a con . Also rebuilding the front forks with new seals and proggessive springs and All Balls Steering stem bearings . I am just missing the t-tool to re tighten the allen key to the fork piston . Any idea were as to purchase one of these  None of the bike mechanics I spoke to will reveal were they purchase there motorcycle speciality tools ... Thanks Rocket |
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Post by Curtis on Jul 26, 2015 9:22:58 GMT -5
Can you describe more what took you are referring to ?
I just use a normal Allen socket...
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Post by rocket on Jul 26, 2015 11:06:54 GMT -5
Can you describe more what took you are referring to ? I just use a normal Allen socket... True . To remove the internal fork piston to replace the fork seals is done by using the allen socket to remove them . But the manual says to tighten them, you need a special tool to hold the internals in place to tighten with the allen socket ... It seems to be called a T- tool and looks like a letter tee with what I can assume is a tapered rubber grommet at the end of the tee tool which will bind the fork piston in place . . Thanks Curtis  |
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Post by Curtis on Jul 26, 2015 15:09:52 GMT -5
Ok now I follow you,
Mine is homemade, I forget the size but I cut it, welded it into some round stock to extend it and then put a handle on it.
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Post by rocket on Jul 27, 2015 9:04:22 GMT -5
Ok now I follow you, Mine is homemade, I forget the size but I cut it, welded it into some round stock to extend it and then put a handle on it. So is it a tapered rubber grommet at the end of the T or is it a tapered piece of steal ?. I'm sure I can fashion something also . No access to a welding something tho . May have to be nuts and bolts and not the edible kind ... |
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Post by rocket on Jul 27, 2015 9:36:58 GMT -5
I think there called Damper Rod Fork Tool ...
Tools Listed:
Front fork cylinder holder handle 57001-183
Front fork cylinder holder adapter 57001-1057
Fork outer tube weight 57001-1218
Fork oil seal driver 57001-1219
Guess I won't know what kind of tool I need until I have the fork apart ...
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Post by rocket on Jul 27, 2015 9:44:23 GMT -5
Found this on the Concours site . This is more attainable ...
Re: Fork Seal Replacement - Special Tools Needed?
« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2012, 04:26:26 PM »
You can make a damper rod tool out of about 2 feet of threaded 5/8 inch rod, jamming two nuts together at each end. The nuts are 15/16" / 24mm socket wrench size and fit the damping rod perfectly. This extension enables you to use a wrench to hold the damping rod while loosening its hex nut coming in through the bottom of the outer fork tube.
You can get the hardware to make this tool for just a few bucks at your hardware store.
I secure the fork tube on my work bench by clamping the caliper mount tabs between 2 blocks of wood in a vice. This held it in one place while applying opposing forces to the damping rod through the damper rod tool and its bolt on the bottom of the fork leg.
The other 'tool' that you will need is a piece of 1 3/4 inch pvc pipe about 2 inches long. Cut it in half length wise on one side only. This will allow you to flex the split tube in place over the fork tube and drive your new seals in evenly.
There's an even cheaper homemade self crafted tool method at this link:
Helpful Fork Seal Link
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Post by rocket on Jul 27, 2015 9:47:02 GMT -5
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Post by s3steve on Jul 27, 2015 11:37:38 GMT -5
I've used a broom stick and an electric impact driver for removal. Then once out you can make something to fit the inside retainer.
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Post by rocket on Jul 28, 2015 18:57:47 GMT -5
Yes . Impact tool will be used to loosen allen key at bottom of forks . I will fashion the 5/8 rod to hold the inner part also when I get to the point of reassembling the forks ... |
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browney
2nd Gear
Goin' Crazy Wanna Come............
Posts: 361 
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Post by browney on Nov 29, 2015 11:23:27 GMT -5
Did get the overflow bleeds installed on your carbs yet Rocket? Do you have a link to the info on this MOD? browney out  |
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Post by rocket on Jul 26, 2017 18:08:53 GMT -5
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Post by rocket on Jul 26, 2017 18:26:21 GMT -5
Doing this ride this Sunday .
Prince Edward County
Meet here ...
Sun Jul 30, 7:00 AM
Tim Horton's200 Sherway Drive, Toronto, ON
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Post by Walms on Jul 26, 2017 18:29:14 GMT -5
Bike looks great and I envy the ride you are going on, enjoy!
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Post by rocket on Jul 26, 2017 19:12:55 GMT -5
Thanks Man . Stuff is magic for shining stuff up . Just tryin out this group amd see how the ride goes . Been no where on my bikes this summer so yes , it should be a fun . Takin the Con of course .
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None of the bike mechanics I spoke to will reveal were they purchase there motorcycle speciality tools ...
