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Post by III on Nov 19, 2014 15:51:57 GMT -5
Best to use a couple gallons or fill the tank if you can afford it... But like Jeff said, short frequent turns of the tank so a fresh amount is always working on the different areas of the tank at any time. As for afterwards, I have a tank here from my H1 Dead project. I used Evaporust about 5 years ago and never did a thing to it after that. Still very nice inside and no flash over yet. One of the selling points the manufacturer uses, is the conrinued protective properties of the solvent.
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 19, 2014 16:07:47 GMT -5
EvapoRust is the cat's ptootie. I just took a chain adjuster out after 3 days and it was completely rusted over. It was clean as a whistle.
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roadrash
2nd Gear
10 McNab St.E. Port Dover
Posts: 271
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Post by roadrash on Nov 29, 2014 14:35:47 GMT -5
Bought another three cans of the stuff,soaked it all night and there is still rust in the tank. I must have tougher rust than you guys!It looks better than before.Maybe I'll put gas in tomorrow, when it's dry,and hope it won't leak.
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Post by kawonda750 on Nov 29, 2014 20:12:34 GMT -5
Leave it for a couple days.
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Post by Walms on Nov 29, 2014 20:22:01 GMT -5
Maybe throw in some media and give her a shake. Nuts, bolts etc.
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Post by lc on Nov 29, 2014 22:50:30 GMT -5
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Post by Curtis on Nov 30, 2014 12:15:19 GMT -5
I have used electrolysis before on an old honda tank.
However, evaporust if it sat in it for a few days would do the same thing.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2015 14:55:11 GMT -5
the h1 fuel valve is a sweet set-up that when properly overhauled works nicely. But is there enough room for it on an S3? To the average Joe Rider there is no flow issue with the H1 valve. Best to select prime before a long run at WOT. On an S3 there would be no need to select prime. When you shut down the engine, the auto-shutoff valve closes, which shuts the fuel flow off to the bowls, no worries. Both of my H1's have valves and seem to function fine. Nor have I had a lean condition, at least one caused by a fuel valve. I probably have a valve here you could try. but you need a vacuum access, which isn't a problem, There are 3 vacuum pumps in the frame. I am sure my inlets would leak if it weren't for my shut off. Or you can buy a pingle
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roadrash
2nd Gear
10 McNab St.E. Port Dover
Posts: 271
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Post by roadrash on Apr 17, 2015 11:18:19 GMT -5
Just got back on the road! New aluminum rims,'76 front end,Boyer electronic ignition.Had 2m.m. shaved from the heads,now at 150p.s.i.New ex500 caliper mount(new welding machine!) Set the timing,set the carbs.Petcock seemed not to leak.Vaporust worked great on most of the tank.I flushed the tank 'til nothing came out,long time! Waited for a good day to ride.The next day half my tank of gas had leaked onto the floor! The filters made no difference.I don't feel like pulling the carbs again since I couldn't find a problem before. Even opened the filler to see if it was the cap but no difference. It ran great though.Going from 110 p.s.i. to 150 made a big difference.
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Post by gatman77 on May 7, 2015 0:32:17 GMT -5
This might seem ridiculous, but I was working on my bike over the last couple of weeks, had my carbs on and off. Went out for a ride and stalled at a light a few times. Left my bike over night and gas was leaking out of one of the carbs. Took them off to reset float height and found that I had installed my needle valve upside down. Might be something to double check.
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Post by Curtis on May 7, 2015 8:51:56 GMT -5
Do yourself a favour, if your going to continue screwin with carbs. Buy a mighty vac. Needle and seat should hold 5 psi of it doesn't buy a new needle and seat. There is no saving it. So many times I have seen backyard mechanics bring me bikes or quads that don't run right and they have F@CKED around and messed around with the carb and bending the float and every other stupid thing when all you need is a set of orfice cleaners, brake cleaner, a small copper wire brush to remove the shellac in the bowl, a mighty vac and some compressed air. Set the float to the proper height, test the needle and seat for 5 psi, blow out all the orfices with brake clean and some compressed air and slap them back on the bike
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Johnny O
2nd Gear
Ride it like you stole it !!!!!!!!
Posts: 334
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Post by Johnny O on May 7, 2015 19:55:18 GMT -5
Check your floats for cracks ? Also you could take them out and weight them down under water for sometime In a glass or bowl and see if they pick up water or still float.. Just something else to check ! Good luck
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Post by lc on May 7, 2015 22:33:31 GMT -5
Just got back on the road! New aluminum rims,'76 front end,Boyer electronic ignition.Had 2m.m. shaved from the heads,now at 150p.s.i.New ex500 caliper mount(new welding machine!) Set the timing,set the carbs.Petcock seemed not to leak.Vaporust worked great on most of the tank.I flushed the tank 'til nothing came out,long time! Waited for a good day to ride.The next day half my tank of gas had leaked onto the floor! The filters made no difference.I don't feel like pulling the carbs again since I couldn't find a problem before. Even opened the filler to see if it was the cap but no difference. It ran great though.Going from 110 p.s.i. to 150 made a big difference. Are you sure the float valve seats are properly sealed in the casting? Maybe have a look at the gasket/ gasket surface here. To eliminate any pits in the seat itself attach a piece of very small tubing as a "handle" to the end of the float needle and lap it to the seat with some Autosol polish. Do this just until you get a fine frosted line on the needle. Be aware the boyer is an electrical amp hog firing all three plugs at once. As such Rev limiting is common as the battery runs down and the alternator not being able to keep up. J
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Post by speedgeeza on May 8, 2015 12:26:36 GMT -5
Very frustrating. Doesn't sound like a dirt issue to me though. You've been pretty thorough cleaning the tank and unless you're running on reserve, and there's no filter on the petcock, I'd be looking closer at the carbs. There'd have to be an awful lot of dirt to make it over the stand pipe otherwise. In my experience, when there was dirt in the tank, the petcock would slowly block up and restrict flow to the carbs. Determine if the carbs are leaking or overflowing. If they are overflowing, then a needle valve (or valves) is either, a) closed, but worn and allowing fuel to bypass b) prevented from closing due to foreign object c) prevented from closing due to incorrect float height
Easy enough to check the needle valves. Visually, the seat should be smooth with no grooves. Put a piece of fuel tube on the fuel feed and whilst holding the carb, blow into the pipe and slowly lift the float. There should be a definite point at which you can no longer blow down the pipe (needle valve has closed and sealed), with minimal pressure on the float.
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Post by Walms on May 8, 2015 12:57:37 GMT -5
^ I've used this technique and it works great! You can confirm float height and sealing simultaneously. Hard to beat!
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