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Post by Walms on Aug 2, 2014 12:15:52 GMT -5
On the last ride my temp differential was 15 deg between cylinders right 350 centre 335 left 320
I decided to do a mechanical sync using 3 1/4 drive sockets the same dia. It actually works well with my carbs because there is an edge right in front of the needle that has a similar radius as the socket. With the bike on the side stand, the socket swivels off to the left as soon as the spring pressure is released...
Question of the day... Tell me the order the sockets swivelled when the throttle is applied.
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Post by Jim on Aug 2, 2014 12:47:56 GMT -5
The obvious answer would be R,C,L, so clearly that's not right. Maybe R,L,C, if the center tended to run a few degrees hotter than the others when synched. Probably still wrong.  |
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Post by JA-Moo on Aug 2, 2014 13:10:01 GMT -5
I would guess R,C,L, and the cooler cylinders would be pulled a bit, leaving them cooler?
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Post by Walms on Aug 2, 2014 13:12:51 GMT -5
R C L is what I was expecting but it was opposite. Now they are synced using this mechanical, method, I'll have to report back after another good ride.
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Post by daffey1 on Aug 2, 2014 15:03:07 GMT -5
interesting  Good info. I look forward to your results |
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Post by mraxl on Aug 2, 2014 15:05:34 GMT -5
Left slide is open more, drawing more fuel for cooling.
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Post by Walms on Aug 2, 2014 17:33:56 GMT -5
It makes sense when you say it but I would have thought more fuel, more power, so in reality it heats up the cylinders being pulled up...
I need to gather more data, my makeshift adaptor for my syncrometer may have been suspect. The consistency of the mechanical sync, I suspect will be closer than 30 deg.
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Post by Walms on Aug 2, 2014 17:47:06 GMT -5
But gather more data, this could have been an anomaly.
I'd like to think while these temp sensors sent fast enough to prevent a meltdown, they should give accurate results for sync.
It would be nice to set sync by temp but I've noticed fluctuations due to side winds as well. On a LC motor, they could be even better!
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Post by Curtis on Aug 2, 2014 18:02:58 GMT -5
Can you set sync with a 3 way vacuum gauge with those carbs? Do they have a vacuum port on the bell of the carb ?
That will give you your at most accurate sync setting....
Too many variables with the heat I think. A fuel injected snowmobile always runs hotter on the PTO side...
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Post by Ned on Aug 2, 2014 18:13:46 GMT -5
Can you set sync with a 3 way vacuum gauge with those carbs? Do they have a vacuum port on the bell of the carb ? That will give you your at most accurate sync setting.... Too many variables with the heat I think. A fuel injected snowmobile always runs hotter on the PTO side... I put vacuum taps on the H1 to use with a set of mercury gauges. The vacuum signal was so low, it was not worth the effort. |
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Post by Curtis on Aug 2, 2014 18:50:51 GMT -5
I believe a Reeded motor will create more vacuum then a piston port.
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Post by Ned on Aug 2, 2014 18:53:32 GMT -5
I believe a Reeded motor will create more vacuum then a piston port. Good point Curtis. |
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Post by Walms on Aug 2, 2014 19:40:54 GMT -5
There are bosses there but the port would need to be machined.  |
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Johnny O
2nd Gear
Ride it like you stole it !!!!!!!!
Posts: 334
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Post by Johnny O on Aug 2, 2014 20:09:11 GMT -5
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Post by Walms on Aug 2, 2014 20:23:41 GMT -5
Yes Johnny that is a good tool as well. My issue is getting my sync tool between the carb and frame. In the end I'll modify those frame tubes the same as Mouth did with his H2. It will be nice to put the UNI's with flanges. Airbox 1 day but I need to start on the G3!
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Good info. I look forward to your results
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