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Post by Jim on Aug 2, 2014 23:20:34 GMT -5
...but I need to start on the G3! Just got rear controls for my DT100 done. Here's the shift side, with reversed pattern:
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Post by Walms on Aug 3, 2014 5:36:26 GMT -5
Nice! The reverse shift pattern almost seems mandatory givin the pictures I've seen of you riding it!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 3, 2014 6:33:20 GMT -5
It'd be interesting to compare compression to the temp values since power output is a function of volumetric efficiency/ring sealing.
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Post by Jim on Aug 3, 2014 8:32:20 GMT -5
Nice! The reverse shift pattern almost seems mandatory givin the pictures I've seen of you riding it! You won't be able to help yourself either. A sub 100cc bike and curves is like a triple and wheelies. Don't try to save money when you get tires though. I'm just glad I won't have to keep doing all the mental gyrations necessary when going from my other bikes to one that requires lifting the shift lever to lower the RPM.
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Post by MooKaw on Aug 3, 2014 10:35:27 GMT -5
But gather more data, this could have been an anomaly. I'd like to think while these temp sensors sent fast enough to prevent a meltdown, they should give accurate results for sync. It would be nice to set sync by temp but I've noticed fluctuations due to side winds as well. On a LC motor, they could be even better! Have you verified the temp sensors are accurate? I would retest them all on the same heat source to make sure the readings are the same. How much variance were you getting from each gauge on same heat source before or were they spot on?
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Post by daffey1 on Aug 3, 2014 13:11:29 GMT -5
The mercury in a mercury sync gauge set may be too heavy for a 2 stroke pulse, but I know years ago, Yamaha used to use a very simular set up. The gauge is exactly the same as the mercury set up with 2, 3 or 4 graduated tubes, but inside the tubes was coolant instead of mercury. I used to sync Phazers and V-Maxes using this set up all winter long. I would start with the drill bit system under the slids as a starting point and then adjust cable free play, then check the slides at full throttle and make sure they reached the top of the bore at the same time, then finish the sync using the coolant vaccume gauges as a final check.
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Post by Walms on Aug 4, 2014 6:45:51 GMT -5
But gather more data, this could have been an anomaly. I'd like to think while these temp sensors sent fast enough to prevent a meltdown, they should give accurate results for sync. It would be nice to set sync by temp but I've noticed fluctuations due to side winds as well. On a LC motor, they could be even better! Have you verified the temp sensors are accurate? I would retest them all on the same heat source to make sure the readings are the same. How much variance were you getting from each gauge on same heat source before or were they spot on? I sandwiched the 3 together on a spare head and heated it from below with a propane torch, they are good within a couple deg at temp.
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Post by Walms on Aug 4, 2014 7:26:05 GMT -5
The mercury in a mercury sync gauge set may be too heavy for a 2 stroke pulse, but I know years ago, Yamaha used to use a very simular set up. The gauge is exactly the same as the mercury set up with 2, 3 or 4 graduated tubes, but inside the tubes was coolant instead of mercury. I used to sync Phazers and V-Maxes using this set up all winter long. I would start with the drill bit system under the slids as a starting point and then adjust cable free play, then check the slides at full throttle and make sure they reached the top of the bore at the same time, then finish the sync using the coolant vaccume gauges as a final check. I've played with homemade water columns with process blower designs awhile back, although I was looking more at nozzle exits for flow uniformity. I changed from water to different viscosity oils until I had the correct range. It would be nice to have a setup where you could monitor on the fly, digital maybe?
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Post by daffey1 on Aug 4, 2014 7:33:40 GMT -5
That would be cool but I think it would take the fun out of riding a little as I would always be looking at the gauges instead of where I was going and woundering why 1 cylinder is off a bar and then comes back and then another goes off and comes back ect. And then worry about what was happening to my motor, and then.... Awwww I got to get my bike on the road
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Post by Walms on Aug 4, 2014 8:04:04 GMT -5
Data logging could be reviewed after a ride. In reality not a requirement but interesting in it's own way for understanding your motor and how it's working.
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Post by Walms on Aug 4, 2014 8:19:46 GMT -5
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Post by Jim on Aug 4, 2014 8:51:25 GMT -5
That would be cool but I think it would take the fun out of riding a little as I would always be looking at the gauges instead of where I was going I have resisted putting a GPS receiver on my handlebar for that reason, although it's not fun I'm worried about. I had a pretty bad crash 35 years ago, caused by looking in my mirror, so I know it doesn't take much of a distraction to end up very hurt or worse. The datalogger solution is excellent for engine information. I'll keep my GPS receiver in a pocket and stop to look at it.
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Post by Walms on Aug 4, 2014 9:35:26 GMT -5
You are right Jim, best not to be distracted. I've found the best navigator for my car is using google maps. I listen to mp3's and the navigator cuts the music to tell you to turn. A nice British lady in fact. after she says her peace, the music fades in again. Now I have a Scala headset, I plan to do the same on my bike. It would be cool to have audible alarms go off if any of the inputs are triggered. Maybe down the road, I will hear Cartman yell "SHIIIIIIFT!" Or Scotty for over temp... She con't tak'r anymoor Capt'n!!!
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Post by daffey1 on Aug 4, 2014 11:23:03 GMT -5
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Post by MooKaw on Jul 11, 2015 20:25:02 GMT -5
I used to use a Unisyn and was happy with it. .. even bought a new one once I shipped my 750 to Washington state. After reading a zillion posts and getting new TV34s I decided I would add vacuum ports to the TMs so I could run vacuum gauges to help sync and tune. I have to add one anyway to keep the stock vacuum fuel spigot.
Plus I want see how much difference between each cylinder flow there is after the carb slide opening is synched.
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