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Post by ballvo on Mar 28, 2014 14:01:28 GMT -5
...what if some idiot (not saying who   ) had accidentally left his petcock on prime and when he pulled the cover off his bike and moved it there was some significant gas overflow to deal with? I know the cases need to be checked for and emptied of the gas that likely is down there to prevent hydrolock. I had to do this once on my H1 and used a syringe with a hose attached through the intake ports. The bike in question is an H2B and I wondered if the same procedure is in order here or if the three check valves located on the front of the lower case provide any kind of easier access to the innards. Cheers, Neil |
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Post by Walms on Mar 28, 2014 14:21:02 GMT -5
The holes inside the cases for the check valves on my kh500 are right at the bottom, maybe a good idea!
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Mar 28, 2014 15:48:16 GMT -5
I have 2 H2B's, and use the holes from those 3 pumps as drains every spring just to make sure. Works!
But dunno how your seals are after quite some time talking to gasoline........Probably ok?
..j.
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Post by MooKaw on Mar 28, 2014 20:59:12 GMT -5
I have been tempted to grab the next 74-75 case bottom I see on flea-bay to use on my 72 H2 just to have those check valves in case my kaw gets either fuel petcock or oil check valve diarrhea during the off season.
They weren't exactly designed for that (just to push excess oil to the mains) but they could be used to drain each cylinders crank area if you pulled the reed cover off and let it drip awhile. I'd like a faster way to drain them... might even be able to tap a 72-73 case in the same area and use some type of like fumoto valve to drain as long as it did not intrude into the crank area. The 74-75 cases have a extra depressed area there where the valves are collect the excess oil so that has to add a few CCs to the crankcase volume.
You'd want to be careful not to add too much volume and reduce the crankcase comp ratio too much.
I don't see anything case wise that would stop mating a 74-75 case bottom to a 72-73 case top.
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 28, 2014 21:20:21 GMT -5
I'm glad to not be the only one Neil. Whoever that guy was.
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Post by MooKaw on Mar 28, 2014 21:37:22 GMT -5
I've been lucky so far. Bike sat for 20 years so no fuel leakage issues so no hydro lock... just don't want to experience it in the future!
Rick
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Post by daffey1 on Mar 29, 2014 7:33:10 GMT -5
My T500 had a bolt in the bottom of each "cylinder" in the bottom case. You could remove the bolt and allow the "cylinder" to drain if need be, then reinstall the bolt with a new sealing washer. Perhaps if this becomes a problem over winter storage, this might be something to look at installing. |
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Post by MooKaw on Mar 29, 2014 13:00:04 GMT -5
Exactly. I don't know how thick the case is at that point on 72-73s. Have to check when I pull mine down. Just have to drill and tap and use a bolt short enough to clear the crank throws. May have to weld up the aluminum to have enough metal to tap.
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Post by ballvo on Mar 30, 2014 12:12:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the responses, guys.
I found that the bolts securing all three of the check valves weren't overly tight but once removed the valves and gaskets are all very snugly secured to the case. Should they just pop off with sideward tap or will somme prying normally be required. Never having had these off or seen the insides of a set of H2 cases where they mount I'm not quite sure what I'm up against with removing them.
Thought I'd ask before rather than after I do anything I shouldn't...
Cheers,
Neil
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Post by ballvo on Mar 30, 2014 12:14:33 GMT -5
I'm glad to not be the only one Neil. Whoever that guy was. C'mon Dave, let's try and stay focussed on the problem here. The "guy" was just one in a long line of idiots... N. |
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Mar 30, 2014 12:41:28 GMT -5
Don't mix cases, as they come as pairs. They are line drilled, so playing around with different cases may cause both crank and gearbox shafts to wear a lot, even become jammed.
Seen that a couple of times.
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Post by MooKaw on Mar 31, 2014 17:30:06 GMT -5
Don't mix cases, as they come as pairs. They are line drilled, so playing around with different cases may cause both crank and gearbox shafts to wear a lot, even become jammed. Seen that a couple of times. Jorgen, Thanks. I wondered about that... now I know! Once I pull my h2 apart I'll look at possibly tapping each crankcase. May have to weld the area up a bit to get enough metal to hold well. This would be SPECIFICALLY for crankcase drains  |
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Apr 1, 2014 2:17:15 GMT -5
Nice plan.
Those drains is a safety precation device, comes handy after a winter time storage for sure.
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roadrash
2nd Gear
10 McNab St.E. Port Dover
Posts: 271
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Post by roadrash on Apr 1, 2014 16:07:15 GMT -5
Just kick it over a few times with the plugs out.It will save you from boring and tapping.
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Post by daffey1 on Apr 1, 2014 19:43:24 GMT -5
Just leave the ignition switch to off, the fuel petcock to off and put a rag over the open spark plug holes and kick away |
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) had accidentally left his petcock on prime and when he pulled the cover off his bike and moved it there was some significant gas overflow to deal with? 
