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Post by Walms on Feb 28, 2013 10:35:47 GMT -5
Yup, I see it now... OK, understood, I assumed there was an o-ring groove on the piston to accept a standard piston seal.
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Post by Walms on Feb 28, 2013 10:46:17 GMT -5
The only downside I can see if using that type of cup seal is there would be nothing to prevent the piston from rubbing on the wall. The piston seal type would preload it to the middle.
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Post by Ned on Feb 28, 2013 12:11:55 GMT -5
Like this.
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Post by Jim on Feb 28, 2013 12:40:41 GMT -5
The parts are shown from the side. The rod sticking out the right side is the clutch pushrod. The piston and cup are shown separately on the right, and in the slave cylinder on the left. Hydraulic fluid comes in through the fitting on the left. Don't make one from this drawing, it was just a sketch. :-)
Good point, Andrew, but it has proven to not be a problem in automobile brakes, and in my slave cylinder. I'm using a stainless piston in a 6061-T6 cylinder, and the side loads are next to zero.
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Post by Walms on Feb 28, 2013 12:43:26 GMT -5
I get it, what I was referring to is there is nothing to keep the seal and piston concentric. damn, that 2nd paragraph showed up after I posted... I must learn to scroll to the bottom better.
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Post by Jim on Feb 28, 2013 12:47:19 GMT -5
Oh, well, I have about 0.001" clearance between the piston and the bore, so it doesn't move around much. The cup centers itself in the bore, since the way it's molded, it springs outward.
It's not your scrolling... I modified the post.
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Post by Walms on Feb 28, 2013 13:29:19 GMT -5
Well certainly the proof is with a unit that has been running for awhile, which yours has...
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Post by lc on Feb 28, 2013 17:08:43 GMT -5
You may want to consider a seal compatible silicone grease when installing the piston into the cylinder (after the cup is installed). I suspect Molycoat DC 111 is one (recommended for brake work /caliper sliders etc by maker).
Doing so will add a bit of lube to the piston and help keep any corrosion between piston and cylinder at bay.... A blob on the end of the push rod might be good too..
J
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Post by Ned on Mar 16, 2013 7:54:29 GMT -5
I went to CTC and bought a fish scale. It takes around 13 lbs to pull the lever with the stock springs in it. I ordered some Barnetts from Andre's and will try it again.
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Post by Ned on Mar 16, 2013 17:37:07 GMT -5
Zambia measured 12 lbs.
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Post by lc on Mar 16, 2013 17:45:37 GMT -5
What bike? At full disengagement (lever against grip) or? J
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Post by Ned on Mar 16, 2013 17:52:57 GMT -5
What bike? At full disengagement (lever against grip) or? J My bike. The H1E. At the highest point of resistance which would be the moment before surface tension of the oil covered plates is overcome + spring tension.
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Post by Ned on Mar 18, 2013 16:36:22 GMT -5
18 lbs with the Barnett springs.
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Post by Walms on Mar 18, 2013 16:45:48 GMT -5
What travel are you getting Dave?
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Post by zambia on Mar 18, 2013 17:01:34 GMT -5
I don't think your fish scale could pull my H2 clutch... Come to think of it...I can't either.
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