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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 15:31:04 GMT -5
Post by H2 Dude on Jul 10, 2011 15:31:04 GMT -5
If it vibrates badly above 5000 then there has to be a problem. I find the higher in revs the smoother it gets .
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Post by Walms on Jul 10, 2011 16:40:32 GMT -5
Dave, is there a way to quickly try some rubber mounted bars? You know the vibration better then me, you mentioned the pegs and motor didn't seem to vibrate as much. It's weird the vibration is not really detectable below 5k
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Post by Walms on Jul 10, 2011 16:47:11 GMT -5
If it were a natural frequency thing at 5k, you'd think it would clear up at 7 k
I'd it's an unbalanced crank, you'd think it would be detectable at 4k
Fricken puzzle!
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Post by Walms on Jul 10, 2011 16:51:30 GMT -5
Tnut told Dave, he figured the crank was out of phase... The more I think of it, it makes sense! The bike starts making some good power at 5k, making the one cylinder fight back even more...
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 17:43:38 GMT -5
Post by lc on Jul 10, 2011 17:43:38 GMT -5
The crank is phased with a pin between the crank throw and associated pressed in crank pin. Strange, but possible.
I guess this could be checked with a degree wheel mounted on the end of the crank and a dial indicator inserted into each spark plug hole one at a time.
A part throttle (operation with cables) carb FLOW sync goes along way for smoothness too.
J
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 17:59:13 GMT -5
Post by rz350ypvs on Jul 10, 2011 17:59:13 GMT -5
All motor mounts are very tight.. the mounts I welded on the frame have not cracked. There is no way to put rubber mounted bars that I am aware of.. the risers are cast into the top triple clamp on the RZ's.
Vibration goes from bad to insane at 7.5k-8k (first time i tried that RPM)
I think it's coming apart this week.. Either way, I will be re assembling in the rubber mount cases.
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 18:07:37 GMT -5
Post by tripletriplenut on Jul 10, 2011 18:07:37 GMT -5
yes it is pinned but there have been instances where it was out of phase at the factory and drilled and pinned this way. get a hold of a degree wheel find top dead center on the left cylinder. set degree wheel and then find 25 degrees btdc make piston stop for 25 degrees. move the stop to center cylinder and rotate the crank 120 degrees should hit the stop + or - 1or 2 degrees if it does not you will have to adjust the timing to fire # of degrees it is off advanced or retarded same goes for the right cylinder.
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Post by Walms on Jul 10, 2011 18:52:48 GMT -5
So you figure it could just be a timing issue?
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 20:18:40 GMT -5
Post by lc on Jul 10, 2011 20:18:40 GMT -5
Dave is running a late KH 500 style iggy. As such timing adjustments to individual cylinders is not possible.
J
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 21:52:47 GMT -5
Post by rz350ypvs on Jul 10, 2011 21:52:47 GMT -5
^ yes that is correct. I pulled the heads, and at TDC for each cylinder, the trigger is perfectly lined up with the pickups (same position for all three).. is this a good enough test? or should I do the degree wheel thing? I have this strange feeling that I am going to rip the motor apart and find nothing wrong anywhere...
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 22:17:53 GMT -5
Post by lc on Jul 10, 2011 22:17:53 GMT -5
I'd use a degree wheel to completely rule out crank phase issues (2 degrees difference at the small trigger rotor is extremely hard to see).
As you say the rotor aligns with the pickups at TDC are you sure you have the system set to fire around 24 degrees BTDC?
The use of a timing light on each individual cylinder may also help show any phase issues as well as confirm timing for tested cylinder.
Have you checked the runout of the rotor? If it is out it will also show up as varying gaps at the trigger rotor to pickups.
Sure wish I could have ridden your bike to feel it as I too run a solid mount engine with chambers.....
J
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 22:37:00 GMT -5
Post by tripletriplenut on Jul 10, 2011 22:37:00 GMT -5
the rotor is lined up at tdc. doesnt sound right
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 23:12:27 GMT -5
Post by rz350ypvs on Jul 10, 2011 23:12:27 GMT -5
I checked the static timing before.. but how accurate is the pointer? When the pointer is lined up, the leading edge of the trigger is in line with the edge of the first pick up. I believe this is correct (followed the manual). I guess I should make 100% sure the timing is right before I rip it apart ;D but it seems to run really well under 5k.. it pulls hard over 6k.
I tried to check the rotor runout, but I had no good way of "mounting" my dial gauge for an accurate reading.
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S1 500
Jul 10, 2011 23:25:25 GMT -5
Post by lc on Jul 10, 2011 23:25:25 GMT -5
As previously stated, have a look at the pickup gaps in all three positons. These will vary greatly if the alternator rotor is not running true. However, due to manufacturing tolerances slight variance is normal.. And with the timing light check all three cylinders (not just the LH cyl.) are firing in the position you want (about 24 degrees/3.194mm/.126in. BTDC). kawtriple.com/mraxl/pistonpos.htmJ
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Post by Walms on Jul 11, 2011 9:28:58 GMT -5
You are welcome to these Dave. They were prototypes for my conversion kit. You could probably make them work with some massaging... They are made from 3/16" plate.
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