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Post by zambia on Oct 28, 2011 12:25:39 GMT -5
I drive my car the same way. I started doing it when I had an '89 SHO and the clutch was like a leg-workout nautilus machine. Mind you, when I finally did get a new clutch installed; I picked the car up at the dealership and nearly drove the pedal right through the floorboards.!
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Post by Walms on Oct 28, 2011 12:42:26 GMT -5
I have the ford motorsport pressure plate that is good to 500 hp... I remember driving the 401 from west to east every Wednesday night to visit Donna at school... My left leg was so fatigued by the time I'd get there that it would shake involuntarily when holding the clutch in....lol
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Post by ballvo on Feb 4, 2016 11:16:25 GMT -5
I'm finally getting back at it on this motor/tranny. I've got so many projects I'm itching to get going on but step one is getting this motor back together and the bike back in one piece.
When I first shimmed this tranny I followed Service Bulletin 73 H-21, H1/H2 Transmission Adjustment, to the letter, installing all the recommended shims. When I did the initial build, being a complete novice, I had no idea I should be squeezing the gears together before measuring the clearances between the gears dogs. In doing that the other night I found that at least a couple of the shimming recommendations needed to be reversed or the shim needed swapping from one side of a gear to the other.
Anyway, in Service Bulletin 73 H-21 the corrective action for 4th gear says to insert a 0.5mm shim between 2nd gear and the bearing on the input (or drive) shaft. This is what was originally done. It effectively moves 2nd gear closer to 4th for better engagement
However, 3rd gear is on other side of 4th and when squeezing 3rd and 4th gears together there is virtually no clearance between the dogs (<0.0015"). The suggestion then is to remove the 0.5mm shim (above) and instead insert a 0.5mm shim between 4th gear and the circlip beside it, effectively moving 4th away from 3rd, while maintaining the same clearance between 2nd and 4th.
My transmission shimming question of the day:
The service bulletin diagram shows only the circlip beside 4th gear but, in fact, there is a thrust washer between the circlip and the gear (Glenn's, p.113). So, where should the shim go? Between the gear and the washer OR between the washer and the circlip? Or does it even matter?
I made a guess and installed it between the gear and the washer. The washer being 1mm thick vs. 0.5mm for the shim. That's an easy one to change, if needed, because 2nd and 4th are the first two gears to come off the input shaft.
Just need this resolved before I start to button the cases back up. Thanks.
N.
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Post by JA-Moo on Feb 4, 2016 11:59:18 GMT -5
I believe they are all hardened, so it really doesn't matter. I would put the thicker one next to the gear just because it's thicker.
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Post by ballvo on Feb 4, 2016 12:59:16 GMT -5
Thanks, John. N.
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Post by lc on Feb 5, 2016 11:15:00 GMT -5
Washers/shims tend to distort sometimes when up against circlips. As such when you have a choice use the thicker 1mm shim against a circlip.
BTW. The idea of squeezing the gears together is: Dogs should nearly bottom when gears engaged, but not touch when gears not engaged.
Also: The toothed washers only come in 1mm thickness. You may be sacrificing dog engagement if using these beside all circlips.
There is only one circlip that may take a heavy load. This is on the back side (opposite the dogs)of third gear on the output shaft. This is the only place the toothed washer is mandated to prevent the circlip from spinning when third gear is loaded.
J
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Post by JA-Moo on Feb 5, 2016 12:08:55 GMT -5
If the dogs aren't undercut, then there should be no "real" loading on the shims/clips. As it is the forks taking the majority of the load of holding the gears together. But if there is wear, or rounding of the dogs, then the gear will be trying to separate, and will be loading the shims/clips more.
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Post by lc on Feb 5, 2016 12:27:05 GMT -5
But if there is wear, or rounding of the dogs, then the gear will be trying to separate, and will be loading the shims/clips more. The above can be expected as the transmission wears while in service. As such the loading on the third gear circlip will increase in time,hence the mandated toothed washer at this location. J
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Post by JA-Moo on Feb 5, 2016 12:45:10 GMT -5
True........
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Post by ballvo on Feb 5, 2016 13:24:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification, guys. N.
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