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Post by lc on Mar 15, 2012 22:45:19 GMT -5
FWIW, DOT 3/4 fluid will most likely give you a more firmer "feel" on your brake lever.
J
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Post by ballvo on Mar 27, 2012 14:06:08 GMT -5
Still plugging away...mostly a bunch of tedious clean 'n shine. Stripped her down for a decent cleaning everywhere (almost). I decided to remove the already shortened chrome rear fender. That leaves a couple inch gap between the rear of the plastic inner fender and the tailpiece/taillight assy so I added a bit of a hidden "mudflap" to protect the taillight wiring. Got the EX caliper and M/C mounted, now with braided Russell line. The brake lever had the tip broken off and so I searched ebay for a bit. I soon discovered that buying new from my Kawi dealer was cheaper than old used ones after shipping is factored in. Got the front tire mounted - expecting the rear sometime this week. Prepping the front hub for paint where the rotor was removed/swapped to the right side. I used several coats of Tremclad satin black, each applied within an hour of the previous, as per instructions. After 48+ hours I sprayed a coat of Tremclad satin clear thinking I'd be finishing it off last night. When I went to apply the second coat this is what it looked like (it looked great before the clear). I guess I wasn't thinking when I sprayed it. The wheel and the paint can were in my garage, probably around 10-15 C. I assume the low temperature is what caused this effect as I've used these paints together before with good results. Spent last night getting into the carbs. There's a fair bit of grunge coating the bodies. This was all roughly cleaned before each was fully disassembled. Internally, they look pretty good. I've never seen this much crap on a jet needle before. That upper green ring had to be removed for the needle to come cleanly out of the slide. All three bowls had a pretty good accumulation of 'stuff' in 'em. I'd say that center well in each bowl were filled with nearly 5mm depth of crud. Cleaned up OK before going into the cleaning dip. I left all the metal bits for one carb soaking in Berryman's overnight. The other two are disassembled waiting their turns. That catches me up to yesterday. More to come. Cheers, Neil
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jacko
2nd Gear
Posts: 468
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Post by jacko on Mar 27, 2012 16:14:18 GMT -5
good job neil on the bike. the paint looks frozen.
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Post by ballvo on Mar 27, 2012 16:22:59 GMT -5
thanks.
I was wondering if this the dreaded "orange-peel" effect I've read about?? Anybody know? Is it temperature-related?
N.
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Post by Curtis on Mar 27, 2012 18:11:17 GMT -5
Tempreture or chemical,
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Post by zambia on Mar 27, 2012 19:37:43 GMT -5
Hey Neil, I need that recipe for my gauge pods...crinkle black! Seriously though...she's coming along great..is that one coming to Oaris?
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Post by H2 Dude on Mar 28, 2012 0:32:00 GMT -5
Starting to take shape Neil ;D i found sometime the clear coat has caused many a wrinkle for me..this usually happens well after the paint has dried. And same brand of paint.
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Post by ballvo on Mar 28, 2012 12:26:37 GMT -5
The plan is to finish this, get some miles on it and bring it to Paris. If I have time before then I'll get back at trying to solve my H1A shifting problems. Otherwise, I might just have to bring that engine as well and let you guys figure it out ;D I got faked in by the false summer we've been having, working in the garage in shirt sleeves. It's cooled down to more normal temps and I didn't consider this when I painted that hub. I tried sanding it last night with little success as the paint is still soft . Gonna use paint stripper on it tonight. N.
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Post by ballvo on Apr 19, 2012 14:09:39 GMT -5
Carbs are done. Removing them exposed the filthy lump that needed attention. Note the custom oil tank with its chrome front plate. For some reason the cable end on the oil pump cable had been enlarged to the point it wouldn't fit through the cable guide so I filed it down to get the cable out, to get the oil lines out for cleaning and installation of stat-o-seals at the pump. Carbs back on the cleaned up engine - side view of oil tank. Got the front hub repainted (this time w/o the clear). Rear tire finally arrived from Pete's to replace the well used car tire that was on there. I gotta admite I went through a couple of tubes before I got this thing in one piece I highly recommend this tire lube from Princess Auto. Very slippery when wet but dries up to nothing fairly quickly. No more soapy water and rusty rims for me. Brake housing and sprocket carrier both cleaned up nicely. And the rear wheel was transformed from this: to this: Rear wheel installed - looks alright with that chrome bling-arm. I went at the Dencos with some OOOO steel wool and they really cleaned up nice. In doing that I pulled the custom baffles the PO made. Haven't run 'em yet but apparently quite loud. The pipe with the slots, which is closed at both ends, continues right through the larger pipe. The larger tail end pipe is a perfect friction fit inside the chambers. No packing on them at all. No idea how this design stands up performance-wise: good, bad or indifferent. While on the pipes, does anybody know the approximate correct placement of the Denco decals on the baffle end? Getting very close now to firing it up - more to come. Cheers, Neil
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Post by Curtis on Apr 19, 2012 19:25:27 GMT -5
Were the picture of the mounted fairing?? Everything else looks great as usual !
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Post by Walms on Apr 19, 2012 19:34:58 GMT -5
Nice work Neil!
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Post by North on Apr 20, 2012 9:37:29 GMT -5
Ditto ;D ;D I remember the last time I saw it in your garage... can't wait to see it in June
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2012 13:27:49 GMT -5
lookin' good.... you geologists have a way with old Dinosaurs eh!
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Post by ballvo on Apr 20, 2012 13:31:11 GMT -5
Curtis, the fairing has been on and off multiple times and is almost ready for final mounting. I've got all the wiring done but still need to clean up the rat's nest that should reside in the headlight shell. Most of it fits but I'm using a smaller shell and it's extended forward quite a bit from stock, so just trying to clean it up a bit. Still have to bleed the front brake before mounting. I searched around for some rubber/plastic edge trim to replace what was around the headlight hole in the fairing but with no luck. I wanted black and I even tried some flatttened tubing sliced along the length but wasn't happy with it so I decided to use what it came with but it needed stripping first. The Jetson's front signal lenses had the screw mount holes enlarged from use such that they were too large for the screws so I epoxied small nuts on the insides to eliminate that problem. I found some Chinese signals on ebay for $0.99 that are a pretty close match for the rear. Of course, since nothing is ever easy, it took me all night yesterday to get them mounted. I decided to mount them on the sides of the taillight bracket which meant a complete teardown of the tailpiece (including more cleaning of grunge...). The existing grommet though the back of the tail had to be replaced with a larger one after enlarging the hole to accomodate the additional wires. Then an another hole w/grommet was added to the horizontal panel (L hole in pic) to bring the new wiring into the tail. Finally, the wires had to be extended to tie into the exisiting harness under the seat. I'm happy with the way they turned out. I'll keep plugging away and keep y'all posted. N.
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Post by North on Apr 20, 2012 14:09:15 GMT -5
Looking great Neil ;D ;D
You should try some flexible door edging from CT... if you carefully use a heatgun while laying it down you can form it to the shell and I had some black and chrome that worked real nice that I set with epoxy after forming.
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