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Post by H2 Dude on Jun 8, 2010 13:18:04 GMT -5
Wossners have a tighter clearance the Wisecos . If you use Wisecos you can tighten the clearance BUT allow warm up . Me I'd go with Wossners .
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Jun 8, 2010 21:21:38 GMT -5
all's well so far with mine 500+ miles
what are the wiseco's vs. wossner piston/cyl clearance?
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Post by johnnyc14 on Jun 8, 2010 22:12:35 GMT -5
Is there a Canadian supplier, maybe a forum member who is a supplier of Wossner stuff?
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Post by givr on Jun 9, 2010 5:30:32 GMT -5
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Post by JA-Moo on Jun 9, 2010 11:15:35 GMT -5
all's well so far with mine 500+ miles what are the wiseco's vs. wossner piston/cyl clearance? Couple of things, Wisecos do not raise compression and different from other pistons. And the clearance difference is small .003" Wiseco, .0027" for the Wossners. I will say the quality of workmanship is a lot higher with the Wossners, I have converted. I only used Wisecos, as they were the only forged replacements available.......
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 9, 2010 21:36:17 GMT -5
wow Johnny after seeing that engine I feel luckier now than I did looking at mine this morning. You did an awsome job getting that apart.
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Post by johnnyc14 on Jun 10, 2010 8:26:26 GMT -5
wow Johnny after seeing that engine I feel luckier now than I did looking at mine this morning. You did an awsome job getting that apart. Thanks crashman, one thing I have lots of is patience. This is not the first rusty hulk I've bashed apart! ;D
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Post by johnnyc14 on Jul 13, 2010 9:48:21 GMT -5
Well I've been chipping away at it for a couple of weeks now. I ordered a bunch of parts from John at Midatlantic Cycle including con rod kits. I sent the crank off to Triplenut for a rebuild. I'm pretty sure the 5000 miles showing on the odometer are actual, the bike still had the original Dunlop K87 rear and F6 front tires. I've ordered a set of Avon Road Riders for it. The wheels cleaned up very nicely and i got new bearings and seals for them. Before After After I bead blasted the inner rim area to remove the rust from the spoke nipples I applied a coat of Por 15 paint to seal the area and prevent further rust. I got the cylinders, head and cases all bead blasted and I'm waiting for pistons so I can get the boring done. I've decided to go with Wossners based on the advise here. I need 1 shift fork, keeping my eye on ebay. I took the seat apart. The foam pad is in very good shape but the pan is pretty rusty but only on 1 side, the left, I guess that's where the water settles when the bike is on the side stand. I think I can cut out the rusty parts and fab and weld in some new pieces. I'll have to bead blast it to see how bad it really is.
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Post by III on Jul 13, 2010 21:29:35 GMT -5
Well I've been chipping away at it for a couple of weeks now. I ordered a bunch of parts from John at Midatlantic Cycle including con rod kits. Better post a picture of the rods you got. Are they actually a brand name you recognize? Excellent job on your wheels. If replacing the bearings and seals is not done yet, I got a great complete set at eBay for both wheels. Seals and bearings for both, for like less than 30 bucks I believe. Good luck with your project. Post a pic of the connecting rods. III
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Post by H2 Dude on Jul 14, 2010 4:14:20 GMT -5
I thought John sold quality parts?
Doesn't Versera retaill the rod kits that most dealers sell.
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Post by III on Jul 14, 2010 6:35:07 GMT -5
I thought John sold quality parts? Doesn't Versera retaill the rod kits that most dealers sell. He does Ian. But the rods he sent me got sent back to him when TTNut told me that brand cost him 2 motors. TOCO was the brand name, NOT Vesrah as shown in the picture at ebay. He said he had sold plenty of them with no complaints. But I'll take Dons word on them not being a good product. Wouldn't you? John at Mid Atlantic has always been a stand up guy as far as I am concerned. Its the TOCO brand rods I had a problem using. Never intended to bring this to light, but I hate to see someone use a poor rod and lose a motor. I guess the tolerance was not right and when the pins were pressed in they were too tight? III
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Post by johnnyc14 on Jul 14, 2010 9:31:46 GMT -5
They are indeed the Toko brand rod kits I bought from Midatlantic. Don has my crank so I'll wait to hear from him but I was not aware these were an inferior product. This is the information posted by John on his Midatlantic site regarding the rod kits: Here's a brand new set of THREE (3) TOKO- Kawasaki 500 H1/H1A/B/C/D/E/F/KH500 complete connecting rod kits. you are buying all 3 sets as pictured, enough to completely replace those tired rods in that H1 motor. each kit includes new Rod, Crankpin, 2 side thrust washers, small end needle bearing, and Crankpin needle bearing. These are the new and improved version of the OEM rods by TOKO of Japan. these are solid-beam non-slotted rods for improved rigidity and strength.
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Post by johnnyc14 on Jul 14, 2010 20:05:43 GMT -5
I sent an email off to Don regarding the Toko rods. He says the rods are OK, it's the radius shape of the pins that causes a problem. Don says he can fix the pins with no problem. The only reason I bought these rods was because they were almost $100 a set cheaper than the Versah rods I've seen advertised elsewhere. I'm trying to keep the cost down on this bike but I guess connecting rods are not the place to cheap out. I'm very glad Don knew of the issues and can take care of them so there's no problem down the road.
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Post by III on Jul 14, 2010 23:50:13 GMT -5
Awesome, they should be fine once TTnut spruces things up. Porschedave in California rebuilt the crank Im using with Vesrah slotted rods. Don was not doing any at the time I bought it, or he would have had the job, believe me.
Good Luck
III
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Post by JA-Moo on Jul 15, 2010 1:09:48 GMT -5
The rod kits are probably coming from Sudco. They had problems years ago, as they were having to modify the big end pins to fit the 500's. They fixed ther problem years ago also..... It's easy to tell, where the step in the pin is, there will be a angle, the bad ones had an undercut at the step.
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