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Post by zambia on Jun 10, 2010 21:35:27 GMT -5
Dave, did you set timing to 20 degrees BTDC? I think the manual and Glenn's suggest this, but many say 23 degrees is better...I have mine at 23 but have not ridden it yet. There's a big difference in 3 degrees.
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Post by lc on Jun 10, 2010 22:33:47 GMT -5
Zambia is correct!
If you set your timing at 20 degrees your bike will behave as if it was rich and be SUPER gutless! This is a large reason the main jets were reduced in the H1B so it would run better with such reduced timing. Kaw set this spec. for the point equipped bikes out of fear the point gap would increase (figuring the typical owner to overlook tune ups) from wear and effectively advance the timing into a hazardous advance situe.
Biker Don is the KING of point iggys and can advise you on ALL the details/maintenance intervals etc of points. As I recall Don has said the rub blocks actually wear faster than the points hence retarding the timing over time. Don has also stated he can tell by the feel of his bike when the points need maintenance.
I run 24 degrees on the H1(rather than H1A spec. 25) for a slight better top end power. Leo also runs 24 degrees on his bikes equipped with Kaw iggys. For general riding 3.45mm (25 degrees) is prolly best for you as it will give optimal bottom end power. i believe Don has said to get this far advanced you have to elongate the timing plate holes (while maintaining the specified point gap).
Unless genuine Mikuni some of the (most?) H1 carb kits are of questionable quality as 'moo states. If in doubt the only safe parts to use are the float valves and the gaskets.
When you have had the carbs apart have you shaken the floats to see if any are filling with fuel? A sinking (leaking) float will effectively raise the fuel level in the bowl and richen the mixture.
The loss of one or two cylinders (not all) firing until warm does indicate (per 'moo) your carb sync at idle off. If it NOT a sync issue then that is a clue to what is giving you the all this grief. Is it only one particular cylinder missing before warm up?
Are all your slides lifting to the max with max twist grip application?
Although rare sometimes a new spark plug may be an intermittent dud too.
J
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Post by tripletwerp on Jun 11, 2010 6:00:01 GMT -5
are you able to lift the throttle cables one at a time after you get her going? that will show up the slowpoke, and with experience you can tell if the lowspeed's clogged or it does not spark until warmer
try teasing her to see if you can torment her into snapping out of her: one at a time, briefly jam a screwdriver in between the point contacts while it is running, be observant
then, one by one, prize wide open each pointset and then let it snap shut, this does a couple things, it will show up a doofus cyl as that one will not bag so bad, and it may just get them points to snap out of her and start making snappier sparks, this worked for me with the old s2 transplant engine I put in Wednesday and will ride today
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Post by kawonda750 on Jun 12, 2010 8:50:41 GMT -5
Thanks for all the input. I did sync the carbs yesterday. They were out. I had done it at the beginning but I guess with on and off 40 times I lost it . timing is 23 BTDC, .1358 in. as per Mraxl on an earlier post. Floats are new and are not filling up. I thought of that before and checked.
I did have the kit carb parts in but changed back to genuine Mikuni. I only have the gaskets and float needles.
It's raining today so there is no pressure to do chores around the house so i'm goin' in again. Paris is too close. Dave
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Post by mraxl on Jun 12, 2010 9:27:20 GMT -5
.136 is 25deg.... .116 is 23deg
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Post by kawonda750 on Jun 12, 2010 14:38:11 GMT -5
OOps. I'll change it to 116. Would that make a big difference?
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Post by lc on Jun 12, 2010 19:21:59 GMT -5
OOps. I'll change it to 116. Would that make a big difference? Leave it at 25 degrees as it will be slightly more perky when putting around. Keep an eye on the timing.
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Post by kawonda750 on Jun 15, 2010 15:11:40 GMT -5
Anyone want to chime in again on this. I have 2 days left or I guess I'm on the Norton again.
I had left the key on way back so I thought I may have damaged the points so I replaced them today. Timed at 23, .116 in BTDC. Still won't pull revs. I have cleaned and re-cleaned the carbs. Pilots are new Mikuni 30's. Idles smoothly, takes off and bogs at 3000 RPM. Battery has full charge and registers 12.4 V. Pipes are clear.
All this money and still no closer to actually riding. it's probably something small and stupid .. besides the rider. I've reached the end. Anyone want to make an offer.
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Post by zambia on Jun 15, 2010 15:39:20 GMT -5
Trailer it over on Saturday morning...someone will figure it out Do you want me to bring the Dencos? In case it gets running..they ain't quiet, but at least they have baffles.
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Post by kawonda750 on Jun 15, 2010 15:56:23 GMT -5
I want to go on the ride and can only bring one bike. The Wirges are OK. I got some packing and wound the baffles.It's about the same as when I started now.
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Post by lc on Jun 15, 2010 18:02:54 GMT -5
I baling wired the wirges from the Kawonda on and the thing took off like a scared rabbit. Exactly WHAT changes did you make immediately before and after this event??? J
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Post by kawonda750 on Jun 15, 2010 21:13:09 GMT -5
I've done so many things trying to get it to go that I really don't know anymore. I had changed the mains to 110's and when it ran well changed them back to 100's thinking that it was the pipes. I have since changed back to the 110's to no avail. I have worked and re-worked the air screws.
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Post by zambia on Jun 15, 2010 22:03:08 GMT -5
Dave, bring it!!
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Post by bake on Jun 15, 2010 23:09:28 GMT -5
I'd be tempted to try a new (or different) set of condensers if you bike uses them, Ive had condenser related problem on an engine before.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 16, 2010 7:03:12 GMT -5
I for once have nothing to add, from what you say you have done everything I'da tried, so I'll think of something. Mark the timing plate to the case it is att'd too at your 23 advance. you can advance and retard timing on all three cylinders at once by looseing plate like you do for the left initial timing set up. I think you will find the circumference of that plate is about 360 mm, so a turn of 1mm = 1 degree +/- I'd turn it a degree retard or two, try the bike. It should run crappier. Bring it back past the marks advance a degree at a time. try the bike. See what gives. Back in the day any one I knew timed a V8 by feel/sound, the light just got you close. Different gas took different timing to burn right. Us in our late 40's and up remember the days of pinging cars, Chrysler seemed to be more sensitive than the Ford or Chev, maybe they ran a little higher compression back in the day's before Engine Management. Best of luck Dave, Cyber tuning is tough on a good day. MAybe try some resistor plugs or vice versa? ;D
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