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Post by crazycunuc on Feb 28, 2018 13:11:02 GMT -5
Sure is looking good. Far cry from when you brought it to Dons a couple of yrs ago. Just looking a little different eh Can't say all the help from the board members didn't make a difference. Looking forward to debuting it at Paris this year
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Post by crazycunuc on Mar 3, 2018 23:47:59 GMT -5
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Post by Walms on Mar 4, 2018 5:18:45 GMT -5
Looking pristine! 😎
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Post by crazycunuc on Mar 9, 2018 8:45:24 GMT -5
Picked off a few more loose ends this week. - Extended the leads on my new rear brake light switch to original OEM length. - Retro-fit a new fuse holder to replicate original. - Assembled the primary gear/clutch assembly. ANNND - CAREFULLY slapped my engine into the frame. I purchased a battery lead kit from Alans-Electric in the UK. Everything looked beautiful except the style of fuse holder that they used vs. original. I stopped by a electronic supply store found the correct style holder (but had RED wires), swapped the wires/brass leads, added the red stripe and vuala... Good as new! Original NOS holder New retro-fitted holder Once the engine was in the frame I was having a hell of a time trying to figure out the orientation of the front engine mount plates. There was this welded on washer that kept throwing me for a loop. After consulting the guys on the Triple facebook group it was soon clear that my plates are off an H2 B/C. Yet another thing found wrong I remembered I had a spare set of plates at home...and sure enough they were the right ones!! AND to make things even better; last year I had them re-coated just for shits and giggles so they're already good to go. Overall progress so far....
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Post by zambia on Mar 9, 2018 9:23:29 GMT -5
Peter - that is looking great!! I see a horn lying there that looks like early H1...
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Post by crazycunuc on Apr 20, 2018 7:39:52 GMT -5
After working on the 400 for the last little while I was starting to feel bad for my H2. So I ordered my new seat cover and last night slapped it on. I began working on the seat in the beginning of February but for whatever reason dragged my feat and only ordered one thing at a time over the last 2 months.
When I got the bike the seat cover was torn in the usual places along the checkered seam and the old foam was dried up and falling out all over. After removing the cover I could see exactly what sort of state the original foam was in.
The seat pan was pretty much what I expected it to look like. I spotted a few problem areas bot nothing too terrible.
With a combination of a wire wheel / sand blaster I was able to remove all of the original paint / rust.
On either side of the seat there was a crack right where it swoops up towards the back. To prevent the crack from spreading I drilled a small hole right at its tip.
I then whipped up these small plates to be welded over top to reinforce the damaged area.
..and after they've been welded n place
Sent the pan down the paint line at work for E-Coat.
Added new trim along the edge to replicate original / help prevent the new cover from tearing in the future. It was a bit too wide so I had to trim off about 1/8" so it would seat onto the pan and not interfere with the spikes.
Added my 5 new rubber dampers.
I then installed the new seat foam using 3M adhesive spray. It was a little tricky to get everything lined up / manipulate the foam with he glue.
and now...THE MOMENT OF TRUTH! The seat foam hung over the back of the pan about 3/4". I've read that guys had issues with new seat rubbing on the rear cowl and wearing off the paint. To help prevent this I trimmed the back of the foam almost flush with the pan instead of having a big flap folded over.
With Rachel's assistance it was time to put the cover on. I had only done this once before on a KV75 and it wasn't quite right so I was pretty nervous about starting a larger seat that has the long parallel lines along the top.
Starting at the front and pulling both down and back we slowly worked our way down the seat. I was really careful to only go 1 spike at a time and always double triple check my alignment. Rachel came in handy to hold the tension on the cover as I spiked it in place. It go a bit more tricky / tight along the back of the seat where it curves up but as long as you keep that tension on there it should be ok. It also helped to compress the seat while doing this to free up some slack in the cover.
Next up was the new seat trim.
And finally the original plastic slip for ownership or whatever.
Overall I'm pretty happy with how it all turned out. probably not quite as nice as buying a repo but I wanted to use the original seat pan and it was a fun challenge / learning experience.
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Post by crazycunuc on May 4, 2018 13:09:18 GMT -5
Progress on the H2 is still going slow... I was able to do a couple SMALL things though just to quench my thirst. I finally caved and ended my search for an OEM High Beam Indicator light. I decided to go with the kit from Diablo Cycle. For whatever reason it doesn't have a 90 degree elbow at the light however there seems to be some decent flex and shouldn't interfere with the headlight too bad. Also added another finishing detail by adding the new Chain Oiler Decal (Diablo Cycle) BEFORE AFTER Since I had some spare time last night I also decided it was time to start working on my front brakes. I've decided to go with the modern EX500 Caliper which means I needed the adapter plate for the forks. **Everything you need to know can be found on the resource site: kawatriple.com/caliper/conversions.htmAlthough the plate is relatively simple to make I opted for ordering them from Jim at Lakeland Services (http://www.lakeserv.net/kaw/). His are really good quality and look great being laser cut from Stainless. ...and for the price he's asking it wasn't even work my time to consider making them. *THANKS JIM!! This plate is really cleaver by utilizing the preexisting holes in the caliper carrier. The only modification that was required was to drill out the one hole slightly larger to be tapped for a M10x1.25 thread. I used an 11/32" drill bit for this. Trial fit - Everything lines up great! After the whole had been tapped Bolted on the plate and everything lined up PERFECTLY. No resistance in any threads from being off center or anything. I can't wait to get this on the bike tonight and begin start on the custom brake line
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Post by crazycunuc on May 22, 2018 9:24:34 GMT -5
So, A tiny bit more work has been done to the H2.
Test fit the EX Caliper and everything lined up perfect with the H2 forks.
Also starting stripping down the wheels and cleaning the spoke to prep them for Zinc Plating. The only problem I face now is which colour to plate the spoke nipples. They came with Zinc Passivate (brass in colour) however I'm not sure I can get that done since the nipples are not a large enough batch to run on their own.
I know I can probably but a new spoke kit for cheaper but I'm a real stickler for trying to keep it as original as possible so would like to restore the original spokes if possible.
Removed any debris in the slurry machine (I DO NOT RECOMEND DOING THIS UNLESS YOU LIKE SPENDING 2 HOURS FISHING OUT SPOKE NIPPLES)
ultrasonic bath
All the rear spoke prepped and ready for plating
Had all the cylinders inspected and honed out. Sorry for the crappy picture but I had to sneak one quick while they were getting done.
My next big question is what to do with Copper head/base gaskets... I've heard a few theorizes... about weather only new OR Old OR BOTH have to be annealed. As well as after they have been brought to temp to either quench it in water or let them air cool.. Is there any "one right" way or does everybody seem to have their own special recipe that works for them?
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Post by shiloh on May 22, 2018 12:49:27 GMT -5
The way I was told was to bring them to cherry red and let cool, annealed. Quenching can cause some surface hardening, yes you can harden copper a bit...
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Post by crazycunuc on May 22, 2018 13:08:32 GMT -5
The way I was told was to bring them to cherry red and let cool, annealed. Quenching can cause some surface hardening, yes you can harden copper a bit... Thanks Perry! That's what I figured. I work in a metallurgical lab with various steels and aluminum so I assumed the "basic physics" was the same in regards to heat treating. Someone had told me that copper reacted differently but that wasn't making sense with what I know.
Do you still recommend doing this with new gaskets?
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Post by Walms on May 22, 2018 14:05:47 GMT -5
Yes, do it to new gaskets as well. Copper work hardens so even the punching process when they are made hardens them a bit.
Quenching does not harden copper so feel free to do so. As a bonus it will help to remove some of the scale at the same time.
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Post by shiloh on May 22, 2018 19:13:54 GMT -5
My bad, work hardening only, I guess the old boy didn`t know what he was talking about.. LOL
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Post by crazycunuc on May 24, 2018 9:04:26 GMT -5
Thanks guys!!
My spokes are officially off for plating and I pick up the piston kit today!! The deadline for Paris is fast approaching... It's looking like it'll be tight to have the H2 ready for then.. but at least it should still be a roller so i can still bring it out to show you guys.
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Post by shiloh on May 24, 2018 10:10:22 GMT -5
For sure bring it out, BUT dont rush to get things done, thats usually only leads to unforseen issues. Just make sure its ready for your shin-dig in July, is that still a go?
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Post by crazycunuc on May 24, 2018 12:59:05 GMT -5
For sure bring it out, BUT dont rush to get things done, thats usually only leads to unforseen issues. Just make sure its ready for your shin-dig in July, is that still a go? Nope... I've taken my time on everything so far and plan to keep that going.
There are still a few more things left such as: need to go through the carbs, order all my hydraulic clutch fittings / MC. front/rear wheel/brake assembly
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