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Post by zambia on Mar 4, 2016 11:57:13 GMT -5
Those are nice - that guy sells very nice repro pieces! I also was looking at these polished stainless items ($49 USD) from the UK
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Post by pipe welder on Mar 4, 2016 12:34:15 GMT -5
Great work. Thanks for posting.
What do you have for polishing the fork tubes?
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 4, 2016 13:17:01 GMT -5
Hello I used 400,800 wet sand paper to remove the clear coat. Then I used that 3m grinding disc with the fine scotch pad. Finished off with the 1000 wet sand paper and buffed it with the mothers. All bought at Crappy Tire.
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Post by pipe welder on Mar 4, 2016 16:18:55 GMT -5
Hello I used 400,800 wet sand paper to remove the clear coat. Then I used that 3m grinding disc with the fine scotch pad. Finished off with the 1000 wet sand paper and buffed it with the mothers. All bought at Crappy Tire. Looks great. I get tired out just thinking of doing that.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2016 19:03:18 GMT -5
www.tripeek.com/ From Crappy Tire try using Red Scotchbrite plain and then Scotchbrite with PeeK then Peek with a rag only. If the damage is more excessive then stronger measures like sand paper are needed! Really really bad damage and you might have to blast, and I'm not talking sand blast. LOL
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Post by III on Mar 4, 2016 20:11:59 GMT -5
I have a sweet set of front forks from a recent S3 parts bike purchase, but they looked like crap when I got the bike. A 3M coarse open scouring pad, a bit rougher than you would use for drywall sanding. A lot of Dawn Dish Soap and hot water, they came out really nice. Only real bad thing was where the PO scrapped the old inspection (safety lol) stickers off. Also removing some of the original clear coat. Next sticker would cover most of that, but it looks crappy. And so, I did think about sanding or stripping to polish them. Next owner can decide. If the original clear finish is not wanted bead blast the lowers and buff them out. Even digs or gouges can be finessed with a file and then reduced step by step to a small wave in the metal nobody will ever notice. Im just glad they had near mint upper tubes, the only NOS set I can find are ridiculous money at evilBay. 200-400 and up for a set of KH400 tubes for mine, Im going with a cleaned up set from another donor 400. It still has the KZ650 front end on it. Hopefully taking it down to the frame this coming week. Summers comin here they said, 60-70F
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 4, 2016 21:07:53 GMT -5
Mine were not in bad shape there was some pitting as shown on page 7. The big thing was to remove the dis-colored clear coat and polish them up
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 10, 2016 19:17:14 GMT -5
Hello Guys What the best way to tighten the bottom shock bolt. The impact driver? I have them started, but its turning inside now.
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Post by shiloh on Mar 11, 2016 7:29:52 GMT -5
The way I do it is to button every thing up with the bolt started in place, the spring tension should allow you to tighten it up. If not you`ll to get a tool or make one to hold the guts in place while tightening the bottom bolt. I made one from a pc of mild steel with a hook of sorts to jam things in place, worked well. Once you`ve hand torqued them to spec, remove the top caps, put the oil in and re cap, done. This has always worked for me, I avoid power wrenches for fear of damaging things. Even when dismantling, use the appropriate allen wrench, and a quick snap will usually loosen the the bolt. I also use new copper crush washers to seal the bolt in position, no need for fancy fiber washers.
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 11, 2016 7:59:27 GMT -5
Thanks Shiloh The new washers came in yesterday so now it time to put the front end back together I will find something to hold down the shock to hold things in place. Do you happen to know the toque setting for that bolt?
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Post by shiloh on Mar 11, 2016 13:48:13 GMT -5
torque for 8mm course is 11-16 ft-lbs, 8mm fine is 10-15 ft-lbs. Determine the the thread type and torque accordingly, I think I did mine around the middle of the range. They dont need to be overly tight, clean the threads in and out well and use lock tite, I use medium strengh blue. You should be good to go.
Nice work on your bike by the way, shes looking real nice.
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 11, 2016 18:27:34 GMT -5
Shiloh Thanks The one went on easy the second one has some crap on the threads of the bolt and the main shaft. My nephew is coming over with his tap and die set to clean them up for me tomorrow. He is a machinist in Ottawa. Oh am looking for insurance for it I will give you a up-date on that thread.
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 11, 2016 19:52:24 GMT -5
Guys I have a question. The Japanese are good engineers. I have been thinking why would they put a flat plate inside the shock at the bottom so that you have nothing to hold that plate when trying to tighten that bottom bolt. Is it possible that if you remove that small drain screw you can stick a small rod in that hole lining up with the holes in the shaft to hold that shaft while tighten that bottom screw. Did that make any sense. Has anybody tried that? Forget it just went and looked at the shock drain plug doesn't line up with the rod. LOL Should have looked before I wrote this.
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 15, 2016 18:26:55 GMT -5
Another stove top photo. All cleaned up and painted. Just waiting for a new main bolt from z1 parts the old one is a bit pitted. The parts in Montreal should be here tomorrow. The shocks are all back together. Everything is ready to put the front end back together. Hope I remember how to.
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Post by trevors78kh400 on Mar 23, 2016 18:05:51 GMT -5
Hello Guys For a winter that I thought I wouldn't work on the bike I did a lot. I put the front end back together with new shock seals, replaced that bent fork ear, painted and the front end parts and new tires. I now have to hook up that head light hope it fits in with all the wires, put the clutch lever and brake levers back on and try and bleed the brake line Help Randy (Triplecraze) lol I ordered the instrument led bulbs should be in next week. Thanks Neil! My next thing will be the clutch. Trevor
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