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Post by daffey1 on May 3, 2015 13:39:28 GMT -5
Compressed air is a good way to get the piston out of the caliper.Give it a try next time. Brad Watch your fingers I prefer to use a grease gun hooked to the bleed nipple with a bolt to block off the banjo bolt hole. It may be a little messy but it cleans up well and causes no damage to the piston as it comes out slow and doesn't fly accross the room as sometimes does with air
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Post by Curtis on May 3, 2015 18:09:18 GMT -5
Need to be careful with a grease gun too, sometimes when they are really stuck, hydraulic grease gun can put out in excess of 700 psi... A lot more than compressed air
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Post by Walms on May 3, 2015 19:15:55 GMT -5
Grease doesn't expand like air tho. Meaning it should be somewhat uneventful.
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Post by Curtis on May 3, 2015 19:59:35 GMT -5
Grease doesn't expand like air tho. Meaning it should be somewhat uneventful. You obviously haven't seen a grease gun line explode under pressure.... Uneventful it was not
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Post by Walms on May 4, 2015 3:59:00 GMT -5
No but I've seen hydraulic lines blow up... It's the pump that continues pumping that makes a mess. The point Fred was making is it is safer to use grease than air because it doesn't compresss.
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Post by autofobe on May 4, 2015 6:59:07 GMT -5
Diddn't mean to cause a big battle.I just use a small block of wood to catch the piston.Never had a mess or a problem.
Brad
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Post by Walms on May 4, 2015 7:12:24 GMT -5
Not a battle, just a heads up. As a kid, I knew a welder that was killed by testing an air pig with compressed air.. That $hit stays with you for a lifetime!
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Post by daffey1 on May 5, 2015 19:16:06 GMT -5
I've only ever used a hand pump grease gun for this, never a hydrolic or pnumatic grease gun for this purpose
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Post by Curtis on May 5, 2015 19:21:37 GMT -5
I've only ever used a hand pump grease gun for this, never a hydrolic or pnumatic grease gun for this purpose Still, hand pump grease gun can go on excess of 700 psi, my Dewalt electric grease gun pumps out 1750 psi...
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Post by Walms on May 7, 2015 6:38:32 GMT -5
About the same pressure as the brake system usually produces...
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Post by toxic76 on Jul 7, 2015 17:41:26 GMT -5
Update It's time to move on to the wiring. I am not good at wiring at all so I had to ask lots of questions. Every connection has been either scuffed with emery cloth or cleaned out with a small Dremel tool. After purchasing some replacement coils from HV Cycle that were supposed to be a direct replacement for a 74 H1 I found out they don't have the correct resistance across the primary coils for my 74. So based on a few recommendations from folks that have tried them, I purchased some mini coils. Since I am not good at wiring I asked and was told how to wire these single wire coils to my bike. The coil has to be isolated from the frame so nylon fastners were used. Made a simple bracket to mount them up
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Post by toxic76 on Jul 7, 2015 17:45:12 GMT -5
I had a spare wiring harness that I purchased off of ebay and it was not in good shape but at least I can raid it for wires to keep my wire harness correct. Andy at Vintage Kawasaki hooked me up with a used harness that was in much better shape
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Post by sf on Jul 9, 2015 17:05:12 GMT -5
Build looks great, I use dialecktric grease in all connections
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Post by brn2drl on Jul 21, 2015 20:42:59 GMT -5
motor has the goods! nice colors.
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Post by toxic76 on Jul 23, 2015 9:07:35 GMT -5
Not real happy with how close the battery positive terminal sits to the battery box. I think I have to Dremel the corner off of it to get clearance. There are 3 ring connectors that need to go on there.
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