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Post by lc on Nov 26, 2013 19:33:14 GMT -5
So there ya go Pipe welder! Our resident H1R owner was nice enough to "step up to the plate" to supply you the needed pics.
You have the welding skills/equipment to minimize the out sourcing costs. Are you willing to have a go at it and work around the 10mm shorter shaft, as others have done?
J
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Post by sooperarthur on Nov 26, 2013 19:37:47 GMT -5
Yes Dave. Ill be running like a Kenyan to start it! Wheee! At the rate I'm getting it together ill be too old to run when it's complete.
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Post by lc on Nov 26, 2013 20:10:28 GMT -5
From about 1975-1978 I did not have a kick start lever installed (due to my rearsets the darn kickstart lever would eat into the side of my leg if installed). I could usually bump start the bike in about 5-10 feet with little effort. Got REAL good at not stalling/launching at the stop lights WITHOUT making allot of noise, which attracts the law...
Somewhere around 1979 I took the "Solidox" to the kickstart lever and bent it out of the way. It also would now clear the pegs/brake lever etc. when used....
J
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paulh
3rd Gear
Adrenaline is brown
Posts: 528
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Post by paulh on Nov 26, 2013 20:15:35 GMT -5
My belief is you need to separate the gear from the basket by approximately .300" via a hub . .250" for the seal and around .025" clearance per side. Simply by counter boring .150" deep from the inner clutch face (nut side). The other .150" comes from shimming and machining the clutch gear stub....but that's where it gets tricky and you gotta get your fingers in there and see with your eyes and start to build instead of sitting on warm couch dreaming and scheming like me lol.
No matter how you do it... or think you would do it ,,,, There is a huge inherent risk with altering these components. If the clutch lets go...loosing a leg or your middle one while leaning on a hard right. lol
You could build a replica clutch basket like the H2R and bolt it to the dry clutch cover. (Scatter shield)
For a few guys to get together and build some for themselves !! Great !! but to sell it... Way to risky.
The dry clutch cover. I was looking into this a few years ago.... Making it the old school way with a copy milling machine. start with a billet of aluminum and a stock clutch cover. It is really simple to build except for the outer areas around the tach drive. No need to scan an original cover and develop a CNC program. I spent about 5 years on one of these machines and the possibilities are endless. One off parts and or copying existing parts was a dream. Unfortunately I do not have access to it any more but they can be had relatively cheap. There is one on kijiji for $2500 but not the right type.
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Post by lc on Nov 26, 2013 20:28:29 GMT -5
Provided the friction plate tabs don't bottom in the basket finger grooves, you may be able to trim a bunch from the engine side of the aluminum clutch hub (as .030in typically done for the H2 extra plate(s) mod) to further reduce shaft length requirements. Using a stock H1 fiber (or H2 if they have the curved tabs) as the first plate installed (with its curved tabs pointing out) would allow further sinking of the hub within the basket..
J
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Post by pipe welder on Nov 27, 2013 11:53:12 GMT -5
So there ya go Pipe welder! Our resident H1R owner was nice enough to "step up to the plate" to supply you the needed pics. You have the welding skills/equipment to minimize the out sourcing costs. Are you willing to have a go at it and work around the 10mm shorter shaft, as others have done? J I think it would be great to take this on.
Your method to replicate a case by welding in the center section and blasting the finish for the sandcast look sound very do able. As far as the shaft goes, if I was to go ahead with this in the future I think Walms has the right idea to manufacture a new shaft to spec. I know people with vintage race cars who have done several shaft reproductions. As Andrew said you just need the contacts, design and the right shop to keep the quality and costs in line. It seems clear that the required information and skills are available right here with you guys to do this and I certainly would not consider doing a dry clutch build on my own but.
It's got me thinking. It would be an entire project on it's own. MORE WORK NOW!
OH and thanks for the great pictures Sooperarthur!...
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Post by pipe welder on Nov 27, 2013 11:59:28 GMT -5
This video shows how you handle the no kick starter issue.
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Post by Walms on Nov 27, 2013 12:24:46 GMT -5
I agree 100%, a dry clutch is a separate project on its own!
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Post by lc on Nov 27, 2013 12:53:19 GMT -5
Due to the configuration of the integral 1st gear the shaft you refer will be exclusive to only an H2 gearset. As such a one or two off will likely be expensive regardless.
Considering what paulh stated earlier; I reviewed the areas to modify as per Lush and 'tuner posts last night while looking at the primary gear installation on an H1.
With thought the primary gear set can be moved inbd about 1.5mm+. Selection of an available narrow case seal (and making the 6 hole gear stub shaft the required OD) along with 'tuner's quoted reductions of the stock parts should allow using the stock length shaft.
A puzzle to look at in the future!
J
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paulh
3rd Gear
Adrenaline is brown
Posts: 528
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Post by paulh on Dec 13, 2013 20:52:57 GMT -5
Your fitment looks amazing !! This is very hard to do !! Looking forward to your progress
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Post by pipe welder on Dec 14, 2013 18:22:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the compliments Paul The fitment issues I ran into were a lot more than I planned for. If you look at the photo below that was taken from above you can see that the two tubes that go down from the steering head must also touch the two tubes that go under the fuel tank to the lower part of the steering head. I realised when I got to that point that there was no way for me to calculate these tube lengths in advance. Each tube had to be trimmed and put into place many times knowing if I take off too much length at the steering head they won't contact below and would be scrap. Just as well that I didn't know what I was getting into or I probably wouldn't have started it.
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Post by pipe welder on Dec 14, 2013 18:47:19 GMT -5
Who has the hot tip on how to remove the black paint from a stock upper triple clamp?Given that I want to polish it up to a dull aluminum finish I have been told several different ways to do it. Sandblast and polish, brush on paint remover, buff it off. I understand the stock paint is tough stuff. Any of you guys have some experience with doing this?
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Post by drewski on Dec 14, 2013 19:07:10 GMT -5
I've never done an upper triple clamp, but some of the brush on gel antique paint and varnish remover is great stuff. If it was me, I'd give that a try first... ... or brake fluid!! That kicks the crap outta any painted surface I'VE ever spilled it on!!
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Post by III on Dec 14, 2013 19:27:44 GMT -5
Who has the hot tip on how to remove the black paint from a stock upper triple clamp?
Given that I want to polish it up to a dull aluminum finish I have been told several different ways to do it. I bought a spray bomb of stuff called Aviation Remover, made by Rustoleum I believe. Stripped some nasty old paint that Zip Strip had trouble with. Not cheap, but effective. Got it at Wally World too. Jim, I'd say a good stripper like this and some elbow grease would give you what you're looking for. JMHO
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Post by Curtis on Dec 14, 2013 19:34:06 GMT -5
If your going for a dull look, why not scrape off then give it a quick and dirty polish job ? Any small amount of time on fine wire wheel then to polish/buffing wheel should give you that result
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