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Post by sooperarthur on Nov 23, 2013 13:53:00 GMT -5
Naw. Up here you can get parts machined for a bottle of whiskey
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Post by Walms on Nov 23, 2013 14:35:52 GMT -5
That's the ticket... It's not 20 years ago John, things can be done much cheaper than they used to be.
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Post by JA-Moo on Nov 23, 2013 16:28:13 GMT -5
Then someone should get a quote...........
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Post by Curtis on Nov 25, 2013 12:46:43 GMT -5
I have access to a 3 axis CNC machine....
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paulh
3rd Gear
Adrenaline is brown
Posts: 528
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Post by paulh on Nov 25, 2013 21:52:31 GMT -5
I believe Ralfs set up was built my facing or narrowing the gears in order to separate the gear from the clutch housing to create a sealing surface. This is probably the easiest route to take. then you could build an authentic looking dry clutch cover.
To build it authentic The H2r clutch housing/basket is a special with a smaller 6 bolt hole circle that attaches to the gear. (the gear has a protruding sealing surface) That's how they got away with a small 64mm inside dia seal. So count on building a clutch housing and hub and the gear along with all other little tidbits including the splined shaft. That's a fair amount of work. Probably good reason why they are not reproduced... as far as I know.
However I do think you could squeeze the dry clutch cover between the gear and clutch basket and still retain the original splined shaft with a little creative machining using all stock parts and without reducing the gear width. It would be a cool project...
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Post by lc on Nov 25, 2013 23:48:44 GMT -5
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Post by Walms on Nov 26, 2013 5:03:01 GMT -5
Do you have the Coles notes on that link?
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Nov 26, 2013 5:16:18 GMT -5
Oh....quite some temperature in that topic. Well, as I've already said: Making a reproduction of the dry clutch seen on H2R can't be that easy since the guys in Switzerland I referred to earlier have NOS H2R on their shelf. Still, they choose to make the kit as seen on RalfK's Seeley H2. Why? ....the answer is logical as I see it: Too much work, at too high of a cost for production. Therefor they ended up with the kit to still an high cost. Just my thoughts, I may be wrong. Jorgen
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Nov 26, 2013 5:20:27 GMT -5
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Post by Walms on Nov 26, 2013 6:24:09 GMT -5
A dry clutch would be Wiseco's best friend eh! The look sure doesn't offset the horrid sound... I've lost interest already! Lol
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Post by pipe welder on Nov 26, 2013 7:15:22 GMT -5
"Lost interest" Oh no! I was just begining to think I may have had a chance to have a WTF dry clutch on my project.
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Post by Walms on Nov 26, 2013 7:36:55 GMT -5
Haha, sorry Jim! I'd be more than happy to help someone with the engineering of one but in the end, not my cuppa tea.
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Post by lc on Nov 26, 2013 14:36:10 GMT -5
Pipewelder, Nev Lush's comment about flipping the clutch gear makes sense.
Looking at an H1 clutch:
If the basket is detached from the gear and the gear is flipped there is now a 47+mm stub shaft available that will project out of a converted to dry clutch case. A properly shaped sleeve could be welded to this stub shaft and machined to increase it to Paulh's stated 64mm diameter (or larger if needed). The ID of this new stub shaft will have to be machined for a seal too. There would now be sufficient material to drill and tap the end of this built up stub shaft for the 6 bolt holes referred required to mount the clutch basket. The stock basket would also need to be reinforced/modified to accept the mounting bolts.
The case issue could be overcome by using a stock case and giving it the bandsaw treatment. A plate could be welded on to replicate the R case, including possibly a welded on boss for the 64mm ID seal. The case gasket surface would likely then have to be machined to eliminate any warping and the seal boss machined accurately in the appropriate position. File/machine the welds down flush and sand blast the modded case to replicate the R's sandcast finish.
Careful placement of case/seal/clutch positions should allow the use of the stock input shaft as reported by Lush.
It only takes lots of $$$$$ and a bit of imagination to make it work... A few pics of the various R parts would help too regarding the case/ basket/stub shaft interface area.
It was mentioned Dave Crussell is running a setup similar as I state. You may want to contact him directly for more info and possibly drawings of the needed re-work/additional parts.
A dry clutch certainly would add bling factor of your replica.
J
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Post by sooperarthur on Nov 26, 2013 17:58:10 GMT -5
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Post by Ned on Nov 26, 2013 18:06:08 GMT -5
Cool pictures Sooperarthur! So how do you start the thing? Push start?
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