jrod
2nd Gear
A Little Bit Closer
Posts: 119
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Post by jrod on Feb 4, 2013 12:17:58 GMT -5
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Post by lc on Feb 4, 2013 12:51:46 GMT -5
A couple of words of caution for you:
It appears you are working on an early H1. The charging system will overheat and fry itself if you try to directly fit a 60/55w bulb (this one cost me several charging system parts and a $123.00 tow bill several years back)!
There are lower wattage after market H4 bulbs (bike shops often have them) . A 35/35w will likely be OK. If you change out all the indicator bulbs and tail light to LEDs you can go up to a 45/45w bulb, but that's about it.
Regarding HID: There is a big magnet solenoid that hangs off the end of the bulb to operate the High/low "motor". As such it takes a deep headlight bucket to fit. If the fit is too tight the solenoid will not work (or work for only about an hr) as the metal in the bucket will interfere/wreck it.
HID bulbs are really not meant for reflector installations. If you want to try to proceed with a reflector setup you will need a high quality lens (Cibie, Hella, Bosch) to get any sort of usable light pattern on the road. If installed in a cheap lens they throw the light all over the place and poorly light the road and annoy other drivers (I'm sure you have seen the kids with the glaring blue white headlights in their Civics..).
J
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jrod
2nd Gear
A Little Bit Closer
Posts: 119
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Post by jrod on Feb 4, 2013 12:58:28 GMT -5
Thanks lc, I was thinking the HID might be a little too long. I wanted to go HID as I know they take less power when running. That's a good note on the wattage too! I don't need any fried wires or charging system! Looks like I will have to find a new bulb. I will be running LED sigs so I guess a 35/35 is in order to be safe.
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Post by lc on Feb 4, 2013 13:07:14 GMT -5
Thanks lc, I was thinking the HID might be a little too long. I wanted to go HID as I know they take less power when running. That's a good note on the wattage too! I don't need any fried wires or charging system! Looks like I will have to find a new bulb. I will be running LED sigs so I guess a 35/35 is in order to be safe. H1B? I suggest you change out the gauge lights and the tail light too. Superbrightleds can supply.. If you do not care about originality you may want to do this mod for much better reliability of the charging system (I now have close to 30,000kms/ 7 seasons on it) kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/regulator/regrecconversion.htmAnd this will keep the rotor from destroying itself: kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/rotor/rotormod.htmJ
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jrod
2nd Gear
A Little Bit Closer
Posts: 119
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Post by jrod on Feb 4, 2013 13:18:22 GMT -5
Yep H1b, not concerned about original, I have led tail light, sigs and I will be running a KOSO speedo and tach which I think have led lights. I will do the conversions you linked, thanks for that. Did you mod your Rotor too?
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Post by lc on Feb 4, 2013 13:37:09 GMT -5
Did you mod your Rotor too? I did indeed! (I'm the creator of both mods ) J PS, Good quality (potted) VR166 voltage regulators are starting to get hard to obtain (Chinese clones at the jobbers generally are not potted). Have a look for a SMP (Standard motor products) NOS part on ebay. These were North American produced and are potted... motors.shop.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=smp+vr166
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jrod
2nd Gear
A Little Bit Closer
Posts: 119
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Post by jrod on Feb 5, 2013 11:34:10 GMT -5
I had a look for those upgrade parts yesterday, I found the reg at NAPA $65 ouch, guess I will keep looking. But it jogged my memory, I have a regulator and rectifier from a 77 KZ 650 C. I think they may just work. The rect has 3 yellow, white and black similar to the 10si 27 si and the reg has black green. Thoughts?
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Post by lc on Feb 5, 2013 12:26:01 GMT -5
The early h1 charging system is identical to a car's (controls the field strength/output V of the alternator through brushes and windings on the rotor). ...
You will have to find out if the KZ650 uses a similar system. Unfortunately most bikes now seem to run permanent magnet rotors and the regulator simply dumps excess voltage to ground (totally different from what you need).
EDIT: I just had a look at alt rotors listed for the KZ650 at ebay. They are all the PM type and as such their associated reg/rect will not work on your H1B.
Have another look at the ebay link I posted. An SMP reg is around $40 with shipping....
J
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Post by H2 Dude on Feb 5, 2013 13:38:50 GMT -5
need a conversion for my S2A. For 49 bucks it's cheap enough. I run 45/45 bulb in my H1B with no issues along with standard bulbs. Battery stays charged.
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jrod
2nd Gear
A Little Bit Closer
Posts: 119
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Post by jrod on Feb 5, 2013 14:59:35 GMT -5
Thanks again LC, looks like I will have to go shopping!
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Post by bake on Feb 5, 2013 20:55:24 GMT -5
Great stuff LC!
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jrod
2nd Gear
A Little Bit Closer
Posts: 119
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Post by jrod on Feb 6, 2013 18:28:57 GMT -5
Now I am debating whether to upgrade this system or swap to a newer system. I have a mint if not nos stator assembly off of a 73D and the associated covers that came with my replacement engine when I bought it. Does anyone know the output on the 73 H1D system compared to the H1B? I was reluctant to use it as I will need the appropriate boxes. My H1B engine was seized solid and the stator assembly was fairly rusty when I got it but the cdi boxes look great and the stator cleaned fairly nice. I haven't tested them yet though. This is why I was going to use the H1B iggy system. So I am better off to buck up and buy a lakeland all in one box for the H1D stator? www.lakeserv.net/kaw/h2_all_in_one/index.htmlI would also have to get a voltage reg and a set of coils as the H1D system I believe uses 3 coils. I am sure the lakeland system is far superior to the early H1B but I am thinking it will probably set me back $400 plus by the time I am done. I was planning to upgrade later anyway. Way off the headlight topic now! The H1D looks like this, same as h2 from what I read.
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Post by lc on Feb 6, 2013 18:34:54 GMT -5
Considering what you have don't mess with the old weak H1B stuff. I suggest you update to the H1D stuff since you already have the heart and most spendy part. Mini coils are cheap ($10.00 each off ebay)! You WILL need a H1D alternator rotor. Jim sells both a combined CDI box as well as a combined Regulator/rectifier.
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jrod
2nd Gear
A Little Bit Closer
Posts: 119
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Post by jrod on Feb 6, 2013 18:41:38 GMT -5
Thanks, you confirmed what I already knew ;D I have the rotor as well, everything for the engine side, just need the bike side. I guess I will have to collect some more bottles!
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Post by lc on Feb 6, 2013 21:41:25 GMT -5
BTW, Your h1D iggy is completely separate for the charging system. With all your LEDs i would think a 55/60W headlight is not a problem for this system...
J
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