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Post by H2 Dude on Nov 22, 2012 11:38:28 GMT -5
I've check the Clymer manual, the Kawi shop book both use the H1 oil pump stating to align the marks but there are no marks on my A1ss or A7ss lever..My owners manual says nothing about adjustment of the pump.
I'm guess the pump should open the same time as the carbs lift.
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Nov 22, 2012 17:35:32 GMT -5
i was wondering the same... so on my '70 samurai made sure that full throttle was the same as full oil pump travel. then when i close the throttle to idle the oil pump wheel was something like 1/16" to 1/8" off the little stop roll pin. i don't know if this is right but it seems logical.
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Post by lc on Nov 22, 2012 17:55:35 GMT -5
Does the pump lever have a little dot? If so the setup will likely be the same as the alternate method used on the early H1s: Throttle wide open, then align the dot with the center of the stop post on the oil pump.
J
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Post by H2 Dude on Nov 23, 2012 11:07:09 GMT -5
Hey LC..NO marks on the lever what so ever..
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Post by H2 Dude on Nov 23, 2012 23:10:18 GMT -5
well my first thoughts were right..the pump lever starts to move when the slides lift.
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Post by Walms on Nov 23, 2012 23:57:47 GMT -5
i was wondering the same... so on my '70 samurai made sure that full throttle was the same as full oil pump travel. then when i close the throttle to idle the oil pump wheel was something like 1/16" to 1/8" off the little stop roll pin. i don't know if this is right but it seems logical. Being full volume once you hit full throttle makes sense to me as well. I'll have to take a look at mine, although the longer throw of the 34's probably means I'm over oiling??? |
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Post by Jim on Nov 24, 2012 0:06:28 GMT -5
I'd think not, since lifting a bigger slide in a bigger carb causes the engine to make power even sooner for a given cable movement than the small version.
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Post by Walms on Nov 24, 2012 0:34:21 GMT -5
I get allot of spooge though... Not that it bothers me per say. ;D
The top end had a nice film on it when I took it apart this summer. Not necessarily a bad thing though, I suppose.
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Post by lc on Nov 24, 2012 12:20:54 GMT -5
I get allot of spooge though... Not that it bothers me per say. ;D The top end had a nice film on it when I took it apart this summer. Not necessarily a bad thing though, I suppose. I believe allot of the spooge issues is causes by seeping check valves. What's happening is oil is accumulating in the crankcases, when the bike is not running. This excessive oil takes a while to clear from the crankcase as it works its way through the combustion chambers and out the exhaust pipes, hence the mess. In essence you are losing oil mileage due to this inefficient over oiling. With proper sealing check valves little of the above occurs. This time the engine is only getting oil when it runs, hence little oil is wasted. Installing new balls and springs is only half the job. The seats must be confirmed serviceable/recut and the lines left standing full overnight to check for seepage. Presently, oil consumption on my H1 (with its VM34s) is in the vicinity of 1000kms per L. This is with the pump/lever lines aligned, just as the slides start to lift. Smoke is now minimal, but tailpipes are still damp. 3000kms now on new bottom end and it seems to be surviving!  J |
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