jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Jun 30, 2012 16:20:30 GMT -5
I can repair those stripped out threads in the oil pumps with heli coils. Stripped threads will drilled out, tapped and inserts professionally installed. I'm a machinist with over 30 years in the trade and have installed literally thousands of helicoils. Oil pump will have the outer ends disassembled. I do not remove the drive or the center section.  Drilled and tapped on my milling machine. ( insuring the threads stay square to the bosses to reduce the chance of leakage)  Chips cleaned out so there is no debris in the pump.  Oil pump reassembled  $25 first stripped hole, $8 each additional stripped hole. Canadian prices will be plus shipping if it's more than $5 to mail. ($5 is figured in the price for shipping ) Contact me at JRDerstine AT gmail DOT com Thanks Jeff |
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Post by Walms on Jul 1, 2012 10:21:57 GMT -5
Great service Jeff!
I paid more than that for the heli-coil kit itself!!!
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jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Jul 1, 2012 12:39:00 GMT -5
Great service Jeff! I paid more than that for the heli-coil kit itself!!! Good tooling isn't cheap. I'm spreading the cost of the tooling over many repairs instead of gouging the first few. I'm planning long term instead of flash in the pan. |
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Post by lc on Jul 1, 2012 14:10:08 GMT -5
Good of you to provide this service for the community Jeff!  J |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2012 14:21:58 GMT -5
I am not a machinist by any means, but those stripped out threads
could all be avoided if people used the right f'n tools to tighten them
up. Soup was teasing me about re-using the aluminum washers/seals.
Nothing wrong with 40 yr old ones if you take your time and do
it right the first time. Stato-seals , PFFFFFFFFFFFFT LOL they are for
sissy's
nice service BTW
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Post by Walms on Jul 11, 2012 15:20:56 GMT -5
Donnie, I reckon your tongue is firmly stuck in your cheek... Lol
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Post by lc on Jul 11, 2012 15:37:37 GMT -5
Just a warning: If using statoseals they are thicker than the stock aluminum washers. As such, the strip out risk has increased due to fewer threads engaged in the pump body. Donny's using only nut driver tip is extremely relevant! J |
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Post by Walms on Jul 11, 2012 16:11:38 GMT -5
I stripped mine with a nut driver... Only because I re-used the same aluminum crush washers instead of replacing them.
The good news is with heli coils, you can get away with used crush washers as you can get away with more torque.
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Post by Jim on Jul 11, 2012 17:05:59 GMT -5
But watch out... the banjo bolts are known to break as well. My favorite combination is Stat-O-Seals, low bolt torque, and safety wired bolts.
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jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Jul 11, 2012 19:51:38 GMT -5
But watch out... the banjo bolts are known to break as well. My favorite combination is Stat-O-Seals, low bolt torque, and safety wired bolts. I can remove broken banjo bolts in the oil pump and drill the banjo bolts for safety wire too. I also made a dedicated fixture for drilling the oil pump. ( no more V block ) |
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Post by kawonda750 on Jul 11, 2012 21:15:21 GMT -5
You are DEFINITELY the Man Jeff.
Dave
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jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Jul 12, 2012 21:22:11 GMT -5
You are DEFINITELY the Man Jeff. Dave Thanks Dave The heli coil repair I did tonight was the short threads in the end cap. I am so glad I have a die grinder as there is next to no extra room with a one diamter heli coil. ( I had to grind the bottom heli coil thread to clear the parts to put it back together ) |
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jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Jul 20, 2012 19:09:18 GMT -5
Drilling fixture to keep everything perfectly square. It's used upright as shown for the inlet and laid down for the outlet holes.  |
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