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Post by ballvo on Dec 30, 2010 19:11:23 GMT -5
H1 tank came out looking fine -- on to the H2B tank. While running electrolysis on the H2B tank, which is really rusty inside, I pulled apart the fuel petcock. Extremely dirty as well with rust and corrosion. While removing the tank one of the brass fuel spigots came out of the body (remaining in the fuel line). Should this be glued back in or is supposed to be a friction fit?  There are a few corrosion pits on the flat surface of the selection lever that I thought I might fill in and sand flat. Is JB weld resistant to gas?? Can I safely make repairs with it on this thing? The fuel cap was extremely rusty inside as well.  Nothing a bit of scraping, soaking in Evaporust and gasket cleanup with Rubber Renue can't solve...  |
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Post by Jim on Dec 30, 2010 19:32:00 GMT -5
1. They are a friction fit, but I think I'd put a little gasoline resistant sealer on it before knocking it back in.
2. Not sure about JB, but plain epoxy is not totally resistant to current gasoline blends. Phenolic epoxy is. Maybe you can just sand it enough to get it smooth? As long as there aren't radial grooves that the gasket can't seal, you should be OK.
3. If you didn't remove the three screws and take the cap all apart, clean the u-shaped vent grooves out thoroughly, and make sure you reassemble with a gasket that isn't swelled into the grooves, you may have trouble with fuel flow, and that can be serious. I sanded my old gasket on a flat surface to get it flat, but cutting a new one shouldn't be difficult. Also be careful to get the parts re-assembled the right way, so air goes through one groove, through the hole in the gasket, back around the other groove, and into the tank.
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Post by jeplett on Dec 30, 2010 19:32:37 GMT -5
Throwing in my 2 cents worth here. Your brass fuel tube should be a interference fit in to the aluminum petcock body. 30 odd years of corrision later and out falls the fuel tube. What you could do is 1.-clean up the petcock bore with some fine (400 grit)wet/dry paper to remove the surface corrosion. 2.- using the butt end of a number drill bit one size larger than the inside bore of the tube as a mandrel,press the tube over the bit to enlarge the diameter of the fuel tube a couple of thou. 3.- remove the tube from the drill bit and 4. press or tap the tube back in to the petcock body.
I've often used number drill bits for mandrels since they come in diameter differences of a couple of thousands on an inch. They're cheap and hardened steel. Hope this helps. J Eplett
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Post by bake on Dec 30, 2010 20:29:32 GMT -5
Never run into that problem before but it looks like you will be able to get a C clamp in there to push it in, I'd also try shrinking the tube with cold and expand the body with heat to help it seat a little deeper.
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Post by mraxl on Dec 31, 2010 7:41:39 GMT -5
Just tap it back in with a hammer handle and Bob's your uncle.
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Post by Walms on Dec 31, 2010 9:42:32 GMT -5
Throwing in my 2 cents worth here. Your brass fuel tube should be a interference fit in to the aluminum petcock body. 30 odd years of corrision later and out falls the fuel tube. What you could do is 1.-clean up the petcock bore with some fine (400 grit)wet/dry paper to remove the surface corrosion. 2.- using the butt end of a number drill bit one size larger than the inside bore of the tube as a mandrel,press the tube over the bit to enlarge the diameter of the fuel tube a couple of thou. 3.- remove the tube from the drill bit and 4. press or tap the tube back in to the petcock body. I've often used number drill bits for mandrels since they come in diameter differences of a couple of thousands on an inch. They're cheap and hardened steel. Hope this helps. J Eplett Great idea for a loose fit!  A little trick I've done in the shop for buggered dowel pin holes is to place a ball bearing over the hole and give it a good wack with a hammer and re-ream the hole... Not perfect but good in a pinch. |
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Post by rz350ypvs on Dec 31, 2010 11:43:00 GMT -5
Just tap it back in with a hammer handle and Bob's your uncle. This has always worked for me.. |
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Post by Walms on Dec 31, 2010 12:09:56 GMT -5
Just tap it back in with a hammer handle and Bob's your uncle. This has always worked for me.. I think jeplett meant to do this trick only if the fit was too loose from corrosion. Unless you are referring to tapping in as opposed to pressing in... |
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Post by mraxl on Dec 31, 2010 12:19:36 GMT -5
The brass pulling from the petcock and carbs is not uncommon. It has happened to me on several occasions. If you use the cheap tubing, it shrinks around the fittings and ends up pulling the fittings out of carb/petcock when trying to remove the lines... it is easy to pull the fittings.
Just tap them back in place and they won't leak or fall out.... no goo of any type is required. I've done it many times on several bikes.
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Post by ballvo on Dec 31, 2010 15:56:17 GMT -5
Thanks for all the replies, guys. I'll just tap or press that spigot back in. Jim, I had completely disassembled the gas cap for cleaning and noticed some swelling of the gasket but it didn't seem to be interfering with the channels. After your response though, I took it apart again and followed your lead and sanded it down some. Thanks for the tip. (I'm not sure what type of gasket material would be needed to replace it, being in that gas vapor environment.) Also, the Caswell tank liner is a phenolic epoxy, if I remember correctly. Since I'll be coating both these tanks shortly maybe I'll just put a small drop of it on the pitted surface and then send flat. The fuel bowl must have corroded through and was repaired by the PO with screws from the inside. Still some deep corrosion pits evident so this is another place where I'll try a bit of the Caswell liner epoxy. Unless someone has a decent one of these bowls they'd like to get rid of    |
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Post by exskydiver on Aug 30, 2011 20:29:02 GMT -5
Just tap it back in with a hammer handle and Bob's your uncle. I did that with mine but my uncle was Bill. |
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