|
Post by givr on Sept 18, 2007 7:32:45 GMT -5
Well, I've got my 73 H1D back together, now I'm having a hard time getting it running. I got the bike in Bracebridge back in 2005, it didn't run then, but I just loved the look of it so I bought it for a restoration. It also came with a 74 H1 parts bike plus a bunch of extras. Besides the cosmetic stuff, I cleaned it and rebuilt the top end. I wanted to see if it would run with the intention of doing a crank rebuild over the winter. When I went to prime the carbs, 2 of them overflowed immediately, so I serviced the float valve and adjusted the float height on one. That took care of the overflow, but I think I'll need to see fuel level using the clear tubing method. That's my next plan of attack.
What happens is that the bike will fire after 5-10 kicks with the choke engaged and throttle about 1/4 open, but for only about 30 seconds max. I'm running 20:1 premix just so I can get the oil lines primed, which they don't seem to be doing. All cylinders fire at first, but then the left one quits and the right and centre ones keep going. After it dies, the right pipe is hottest, centre a little cooler, and the left one is just barely warm. Before I started fooling around with the carbs, (fixing the overflow) I had the opposite problem, left hot, right cold, centre medium. Besides checking the carbs out for levels, etc. is there anything else I should check out? Thanks, Anthony
|
|
|
Post by zambia on Sept 18, 2007 8:05:40 GMT -5
If you swap the carbs back again..and then the left cylinder quits while the right side runs, then you'll know for sure it's a problem of fuel, not fire. Then I suggest you take the carbs apart again, and give them a real "going over". Levels are critical with these things and you may need new floats (available from John Lutz at Mid Atlantic Cycle I think). Sounds like you're close to riding!
ian
|
|
|
Post by lc on Sept 18, 2007 9:20:20 GMT -5
Have you disassembled and cleared the fuel valve? There are small filters on its inlet pipes as well l as a filter just above the sediment bowl.
Try starting your bike on the P (prime) position. Is the fitting on the fuel valve at the diaphram connected to the vacuum fitting on the one carb? Try opening the gas cap to rule out a plugged vent (located within the cap.
J
|
|
|
Post by Rick on Sept 18, 2007 11:38:01 GMT -5
Did you Clean the pilot jet , main jet and emulsion tubes? If the float needles were dirty, these will be an issue as well...
;D
Rick
|
|
|
Post by givr on Sept 18, 2007 11:46:19 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips , I'll start going through it all systematically and see what I come up with.
|
|
|
Post by tripletriplenut on Sept 18, 2007 13:28:08 GMT -5
remove the carbs and have them cleaned especially if it has sat for along time . this will save you alot of trouble down the road.
|
|
|
Post by givr on Sept 23, 2007 6:45:48 GMT -5
We're getting closer! All 3 are firing and all 3 pipes are about the same temperature. However, it won't idle at less than 2.5-3K. The idle screws are all the way in! I guess this may be a syncronization issue. I've tried to follow the instructions on mraxl's page but doesn't seem to work for me. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Does anyone know if the sync tool on EBAY is worthwhile? I believe it measure the degree of vacuum from the intake. Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by Walms on Sept 23, 2007 7:16:27 GMT -5
We're getting closer! All 3 are firing and all 3 pipes are about the same temperature. However, it won't idle at less than 2.5-3K. The idle screws are all the way in! I guess this may be a syncronization issue. I've tried to follow the instructions on mraxl's page but doesn't seem to work for me. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Does anyone know if the sync tool on EBAY is worthwhile? I believe it measure the degree of vacuum from the intake. Thanks! On my carbs, as you turn in the idle screw it raises the barrel of the carb.... I'm not a pro at this stuff... but I would back all the idle screws out to the point that they don't touch the barrel, then turn each one in while holding your finger against the barrel to feel when they just start raising the barrel. This will set the base point, then turn them in equally to raise the idle.
|
|
|
Post by connorsracing on Sept 23, 2007 8:46:52 GMT -5
We used to use a drill bit, pencil...or anything like that...stick them in the carb set them all equally...not running of course. That will give you a base start to adjust the cable where you can. Then fake it from there...as long as they all go wide open at full throttle...which is where you should be riding it anyway!! Double check the boots...make sure yer not sucking any air. Gary
|
|
|
Post by tripletriplenut on Sept 23, 2007 9:31:46 GMT -5
if it will not idle below 3000 rpm the idle circuits are plugged. your carbs are green have them cleaned
|
|
|
Post by connorsracing on Sept 23, 2007 9:42:04 GMT -5
"your cards are green have them cleaned " I dunno....I kinda like green 'cards'... I know...I have too much time on my hands this morning!!! ;D Gary
|
|