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Post by tripletwerp on Jan 19, 2008 0:04:32 GMT -5
I used a braided rear line spec'd for a later yam or kaw rear disc system for the ex conversion on my H2, it was 25 inches long, probably at least about an inch too long. ;D
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Post by tripletwerp on Jan 25, 2008 17:53:00 GMT -5
I finally got my EX front brake caliper on... holy crap what a difference!!!  Stopping is not just a suggestion anymoe...lol The brake I bought on flea bay came with the stock brake line (thanks for the bonus buddy) I was able to set it up for a test run with it but it bi-passes the brake light sensor. Are these flex lines with banjo fittings on both ends a common commodity some where? Did I mention I'm a cheap SOB... hey, I'm a cheap SOB too but for $100 I will hold your hand and take you shopping.  So do you want a rubber hose or a braided line? What length and at what price, those are contingencies impacting commonality?   You want cheap cheap? Just use that long hose for your lower one. Just tie a knot in it to shorten it, the price is right!!! ;D |
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Post by zambia on Feb 6, 2008 17:51:20 GMT -5
Guys. I got this caliper for $12 from eBay...looks excellent. Is it gonna work? I want to install it exactly the same way as stock.. left side, in front of the fork - with Andrew's bracket.  |
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Post by Walms on Feb 6, 2008 19:32:09 GMT -5
That’s a right side caliper… It will bolt up ok but the larger piston “should” be trailing. There was a guy in States that had one installed this way and said it worked OK… It might be more prone to brake chatter but I’m not really sure. One feature I like about having the caliper behind the fork is that if the bracket ever broke, the fork would stop the caliper immediately from spinning around 1 revolution and flipping me over the handle bars....  |
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Post by givr on Feb 6, 2008 19:57:34 GMT -5
flipping me over the handle bars.... ” Now that's a vivid thought.  Note the lack of safety gear in the following pics    |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2008 19:58:22 GMT -5
One feature I like about having the caliper behind the fork is that if the bracket ever broke, the fork would stop the caliper immediately from spinning around 1 revolution and flipping me over the handle bars.... Sounds painful brawney  |
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Post by zambia on Feb 6, 2008 20:45:06 GMT -5
if the bracket ever broke, the fork would stop the caliper immediately from spinning around 1 revolution and flipping me over the handle bars.... The bracket might break??? Say it ain't so!!! Seriously though, if I have the caliper in front of the fork, on the left side..the larger piston will be out back, right? (I'm very slow in these areas). |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2008 20:57:43 GMT -5
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Post by Walms on Feb 6, 2008 21:46:00 GMT -5
Thanks Brawney, I still haven't got around to buying the lines yet... Zambia, what I meant by leading and trailing pistons was in reference to the rotor and how it enters the caliper. No warranties on the brake links eh... ;D Ian, it's good to be a little nervous about these things... After all you ride [glow=red,2,300]THe WiDoW MaKeR[/glow] |
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Post by tripletwerp on Feb 6, 2008 21:58:09 GMT -5
Guys. I got this caliper for $12 from eBay...looks excellent. Is it gonna work? I want to install it exactly the same way as stock.. left side, in front of the fork - with Andrew's bracket. looks just like the one that worked for me, installed just that way, I think the brackets are reversible ;D check the bracket for cracks as a pre-flight if a concern, I would be more concerned about the bracket for the hydraulic damper letting go, check it for cracking too |
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Post by tripletwerp on Feb 6, 2008 22:00:36 GMT -5
I used them once, will do so again, just straight ahead TCB, perfect experience, good mails, user friendly, etc. you need ones with 10mm banjo fittings though, at least the one at the ex caliper should be offset at least 30 degrees, do they have those fittings to screw in/ and goodridge makes their hoses with such ends already kw2851-1RD as an example, I think the RD stands for red anodized in that instance  |
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Post by tripletwerp on Feb 6, 2008 22:03:41 GMT -5
... flipping me over the handle bars.... that can happen just by applying this brake so firmly as you used to do with the stocker |
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Post by tripletwerp on Feb 6, 2008 22:11:38 GMT -5
if the bracket ever broke, the fork would stop the caliper immediately from spinning around 1 revolution and flipping me over the handle bars.... The bracket might break??? Say it ain't so!!! Seriously though, if I have the caliper in front of the fork, on the left side..the larger piston will be out back, right? (I'm very slow in these areas). the larger pucks will be the leading ones, just picture how your rotor will spin in that pic of the caliper you put up this brake is so powerful, the difference in clamping force will be negligible, works fine for me, you will lock the tire or do a stoppie, not be wishing a different puckset was leading ;D |
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Post by Walms on Feb 6, 2008 23:11:50 GMT -5
this brake is so powerful, the difference in clamping force will be negligible, works fine for me, you will lock the tire or do a stoppie, not be wishing a different puckset was leading ;D It’s not a difference in clamping force, it’s how the pads react to the friction against the rotor. The front edge of the pad wants to bite into the rotor causing the tail end of the pad to flutter. If you put the smaller cylinder on the leading edge and apply the greater force on the rear of the pad and it will minimize this effect. Same idea as the shims on the stock pads. So if you don't have a brake chattering problem your good to go. |
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Post by tripletwerp on Feb 7, 2008 8:06:38 GMT -5
this brake is so powerful, the difference in clamping force will be negligible, works fine for me, you will lock the tire or do a stoppie, not be wishing a different puckset was leading ;D It’s not a difference in clamping force, it’s how the pads react to the friction against the rotor. The front edge of the pad wants to bite into the rotor causing the tail end of the pad to flutter. If you put the smaller cylinder on the leading edge and apply the greater force on the rear of the pad and it will minimize this effect. Same idea as the shims on the stock pads. So if you don't have a brake chattering problem your good to go. ok, but buddy its so understressed in this application maybe that Injun Ear guy might have a comment on how the swept area of the stock pad in flutter mode, oh nevermind so much puck area, so little kinetic energy to arrest ;D |
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