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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 13, 2021 13:52:09 GMT -5
Not yet Scott. They are actually H2 pipes so had the mounts further back. The PO made custom brackets on the bike. I will fit them whenI get the cylinders done and then locate the mounts.
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 15, 2021 14:22:33 GMT -5
We can confirm that the the Wirges have a serious internal restriction, added cone silencer as LC mentioned. It gets worse because they get clogged up and making it even worse. We had posted some pictures of a an H1 D that we cut opened the pipes and removed that extra baffle. It is located at the rear of last cone just before the primary baffle. It is spot welded in place and quite often they come loose and fall out inside. We also shortened the belly and rewelded. The pipes worked well after that. There were some pictures we posted of that cutting and welding. But too bad they can't be accessed now. We ended up with a 95 main jet and moved the clip one notch richer. And it runs good. The H1F I had also ended up with 95'S with the DENCOS I had on it. What air cleaners were on these? With the Wirges cut down , I get the feeling that they are comparable to Dencos now. Denco says 3 sizes of main up. I have ordered Uni filters and thus no snorkel so more air flow. If I am starting with H1D/E specs, it sounds like 97.5 or 100s are the ticket.
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H1F carbs
Mar 16, 2021 0:10:01 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lc on Mar 16, 2021 0:10:01 GMT -5
Dave You might have to go slightly richer on the mains if you advance the timing to tge usual 25 degrees (from.the normal 23 used on the later 500s).
Advancing timing tends yo give a leaning effect (retarding timing fives a richening effect).
J
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Post by acceleration on Mar 16, 2021 8:30:22 GMT -5
Denco specs are rich for "where" we are. Altitude and air density have an effect on jetting. And is not the same from one place to another. Depending what altitude you are at in relation to sea level and air temperatures and general humidity. If you are close to sea level comparing to up in the mountains. jetting is going to be different. Start rich. 100 is a good start. Might even want to move the clip on the rod one notch richer. The last engine I built I put thermal barrier coating on the piston tops. It had an effect on the jetting and heat range of the spark plug. Starting rich you can always adjust to the proper jetting. Starting lean and you can damage your engine and seize it. And sometimes an engine runs great and makes more power when it is lean, fooling you into thinking it is NOT lean. Make SURE and pull the spark plugs OFTEN and do a high RPM throttle clip to check and see if the main jet is correct. Read the plugs. Light brown, tan, grey is good, Too white no good. You will know when your are rich not only will you feel it the plugs will be too dark and may even foul. But you can't always feel lean. Until the piston locks up in the bore !!
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 25, 2021 9:37:33 GMT -5
Did you re-locate the pipe mounts during your welding session? J As it turns out, by shortening the H2 belly to 7 inches as per Ned, the mounts are only about an inch back from the foot peg mounts. I had 2 of the H2 front engine triangular tabs and the spacing is perfect. I used these to mount the pipes. No additional drilling or welding.
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