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Post by mortzz on May 15, 2017 12:11:44 GMT -5
Ive had a lot of 2 strokes in my lifetime and do understand that my H1E triple is based on a 1960 engine I think, but has anyone ever looked into a update on the engine for vibration? my mirror is about useless as it just vibrates all the time but over all I find the whole triple package very basic, I suppose I'm a tad disappointed in the whole bike, the best thing is I love just looking at this bike as I find it absolutely gorgeous!! but as a rider its very disappointing , I have a RD 250F 1979 and unlike the H1E it does everything it should do but do realise that the RD does have a big pedigree and is Race Developed, I cant work out why Kawasaki did such a poor job as in the frame , brakes, vibration, the lot really, if I had a bigger lounge I would put it in the house just to look at for its pure beauty!!
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Post by Walms on May 15, 2017 13:07:01 GMT -5
The later model H1's had rubber mounted cases, this helps a ton. I put rubber mounted rearsets on as well and I can ride my bike all day. I have also ridden other triples that would loosen your fillings and make your feet and hands numb in 10 minutes. I suspect the cranks were pooched or improperly shimmed solid mounted engines played a part on those ones though
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Post by drewski on May 15, 2017 16:56:55 GMT -5
I realize that this topic has been discussed here at KTC before, but some would not be aware of older threads, so here goes. It's been pretty well documented by several trusted folks within the Triple world that there's really nothing wrong with the Triples in terms of the basic package goes. I'm talking about the frame and engine package, of course. The fit of these pieces and the supporting hardware (rear shocks/springs, etc) is certainly suspect, but proper attention to assembly and set-up can cure most, if not all, of the handling ills. Wheel truing and choice of rubber are important and can make a big difference as well. There's been tons of discussion on which is the best combination as well. H1 vs. H2, S2 vs KH400... and now even the hybrid versions such as H1/750 and KH400/500 just to name 2 of them. You'll find LOTS of dialogue on this! You'll find there are 'champions' for just about any model or combination you might mention. I agree with Walms' comments too! My h2 got progressively worse over the years I had it and I believe the crank was likely well beyond it's "best before date" but couldn't stop riding it as it was still too much fun! No doubt the RD package is a fun little unit and offers it's owner many thrills per mile! Personally, I'd never want to give up the howl of a triple coming on the pipe. It's the icing on the cake for me! Thots? Comments?
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Post by midnightlamp on May 15, 2017 17:36:59 GMT -5
Most of those criticisms can be easily addressed without much work.
For the brakes, an EX caliper and master on a triple seems to outbrake some of the nicer 80's bikes I've ridden, and is comically simple to adapt to a triple (try doing that with a GT or 750/4 or other bike of that era). For forks, progressive springs, decent oil, and a valve emulator go a long way. It's definitely not modern, but it's definitely quite something. Add functional shocks (if you're still running nearly half century old shocks, you'd be surprised how much better a set of DECENT new shocks work...YSS, hagons, etc...). Add bronze swingarm bushings to replace crap factory ones, and put in some nice grease, and take care to tighten them nicely after reaming them out to fit the sleeves, and you'll have a functional swingarm. Make sure to get proper tires that aren't too wide (stick to the closet metric sizes for OEM rims) and you'll have a bike that handles predictably too. None of that really involves much modification from stock (short of the valve emulator adaptors), and it's not that expensive in the big picture.
For the vibration, you already have the better setup with rubber mounted cases. I've found a nice running triple is really not that bad for vibration. It's definitely not smooth like a well balanced inline 4, but it really comes with the territory. I'm used to bikes with nasty vibes, so I find putting GT style grips and fresh footpeg rubbers actually helps a lot. Have you checked to make sure everything is snugged up and that the carbs are well synced?
They're all little changes, but having owned lots of bikes from this era I'll say that almost regardless of make doing all those things tends to put the road-holding of the bike in a territory that has firm steering, taught handling, and makes the bikes quite predictable up to a fair chunk of speed. Once you get used to that a lot of stuff from the 80's and 90's just feels wallowy and toy like in comparison.
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Post by shiloh on May 15, 2017 18:30:43 GMT -5
As mentioned the h1e engine is or should be rubber isolated mounted, I`m running an h1e and is pretty smooth, must be something else going on. bad crank, worn out rubber mounts.......
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on May 16, 2017 1:34:34 GMT -5
Once, I tightened the bolts/nuts too much on my rubber mounted H2. She vibrated as hell. Loosened up a bit again, and vibrations gone. I have ridden a stock KH500, and the rubber monted H1's do not have vibrations as described at all when everything is in order. My guess is your rubber bushings is shot, they do after 40+ years. Don't know much about cranks, but I do know some get out of phase over the years, at least the 750 cranks.
As a reference: My other H2 (stockish) that also have rubber mounted engine, the mirrors do not vibrate. A 500 vibrates less that a 750, so I guess something fishy is going on, and you may take out your engine and at least....have a close look at the rubber bushings. Hopefully........you do not need to rebuild crank.
Jørgen
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Post by autofobe on May 16, 2017 6:30:26 GMT -5
You must not have been a teenager in the 70's.Kawasaki's were the wild bronks of the day.They were the fastest meanest machines of the decade.That is why they are so collectible today.Just like the hemi chargers or cudas.They were bare bones machines meant for one thing.Blinding speed.You want gentle get a waterbuffalo.Docile get a 750 four.You wouldn't be caught dead on an RD.All that being said,the ride quality & handling was improved year after year & the power band down & weight rose to accomplish part of this.Your E should be a very comfortable ride if it has stock pipes & bars,good steering bearings,swingarm bushings,trued wheels,& good tires that are balanced.If all those things are done & your crank is true,you should be very happy.If not,go back to you little Rd or move on to a Deisel.Most of us have a diesel in the garage also.But when I want to feel 17 again and tame the bronco,I go for the old triple every time.
Brad
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Post by Walms on May 16, 2017 7:04:05 GMT -5
Well I think we hit all the points. The general consensus is something must be up with your H1 to be a bad vibrator, I missed that it was a H1E on my first read through. With that said, you should consider riding a KH400 sometime. They truly are the most refined triple. If you rode one once, my bet is you'd be looking into trading it with your H1. Not because of the vibrations, more for how much better the bike handles. I tried Mouth's H1E once, it felt like riding wheelbarrow in comparison to be honest. I suspect allot comes from the heavy front end with the 19" wheel, not sure? When I first got my 400 on the road, I was expecting the worst and figured I'd spend most of my time improving the ride and handling... the thing was simply awesome stock, I really only needed to deal with brakes to make it safe by modern standards.
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Post by zambia on May 16, 2017 7:11:56 GMT -5
Ned's 500 H1E is one of the smoothest bikes I have ridden...virtually no vibration from the motor. As others have said, you might be needing new rubber mounts or some engine shimming. Tires can make a huge difference too - my '72 H2 was very smooth in terms of the engine, but when I switched from Chinese tires to BT-45, the ride was instantly 100X better.
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Post by acceleration on May 16, 2017 9:17:53 GMT -5
All of what is said here is true about Triples.All these guys are right.I got my first triple an H1 500 in the mid 70'S, a rubber mounted engine, it wasn't THAT bad for vibes, and all my friends bought RD 400'S new.One of them did a lot of work on his and swore he was going to beat my 500.He didn't.But that RD 400 did everything else better than my 500.Smoother handled better etc...The Triple is still my favorite bike.Right now between my brothers and I, we have a bunch of triples 400/500/750 and mid series air cooled and RD/RZ LC bikes. I JUST bought an RD350LC last weekend.As much as I am loyal to Triples.I will say the 250/350 Triples didn't quite capture the Legend of the 500/750.I would see RD250'S out handle and out run 250 triples.Even an RD 200 will give a 250 triple a hard time.RD 350's are excellent quick bikes too.The 400 Triple is different and why many say it is the best of the triples, but back in the day my friends had both RD 400's and 400 Triples and they would run neck and neck with each other one being faster than the other depending on how heavy the driver was.Kawasaki knew how popular and how good the RD's were and how well they ran.They knew the 350 Triple wasn't on par.The 400 triple was a redesign in the same market performance bracket as the RD 400.They even re-designed the cylinders on the 400 triple to capture the squared off look of the Yamaha cylinders ? Some nice RD'S are really increasing in value ? Some are bringing as much as some of our H1'S ? The RD/RZ 350 liquid cooled bikes are getting really good money.There is an RZ 500 on eBay right now and it is up to $16K U.S.It will probably sell for as much or more than a nice H2 ? And while the Triples are my favorite two stroke bike.I have to be open minded and give perspective to the possibility that the Yamaha RD is a better all around bike.Sorry guys that's just my 2 cents and it is worth what you pay for it NOTHING. We ride BOTH triples and RD'S all the time now.So I can understand in some respects your having difficuly coming to terms with the differences if you are used to a Yamaha.But having said that there might be something wrong and going on.Becasue like many of the experts here have said, it shouldn't be getting "that much" vibration.Try and go over the bike and check for a possible cause.Don't give up on your triple !! It is a GREAT bike.I am sure you will get it sorted out.And have a lot of fun with it.Don't look it.RIDE IT !!
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Post by mortzz on May 16, 2017 17:16:01 GMT -5
Thanks guys I'm going to look into the engine mounts first and see whats going on, I'm not going to give up on the triple just yet after all the positive comments , I do have new head bearings in and brand new tyres that are as close to the OEM ones as possible by my local garage who knows his tyres and bikes like the back of his hand , I did notice that around 100 mph the front wheel is shaking so need to look into that,,
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Post by lc on May 16, 2017 22:01:38 GMT -5
A perfect carb sync goes along way to a smooth and quiet (rattle reduced) engine. Sync the carbs with a uni sync etc at idle. Then tighten the cable tensioner at the throttle grip until 2500 to 3000 rpm is attained. Then re sync with uni sync to be sure carbs ate balanced during cable operation. Once perfected return the cable adjuster so you have about 3 to 3mm slack in the sheath.
J
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Post by H2 Dude on May 17, 2017 12:01:47 GMT -5
My 72 H1B is very smooth even up to 80mph which seems to get even smoother.
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Post by shiloh on May 17, 2017 19:17:23 GMT -5
Ya my 350's like that, theres sweat sposts where its as smooth as silk. Generally about 60mph cruising. They are what they are....... fun!
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Post by Walms on May 17, 2017 20:07:44 GMT -5
With my bike, it's 5500 rpm with the pipe just starting to make steam. I can practically close the throttle and maintain a speed in 5th sewing machine mode, although not so quiet. 😂
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