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Post by mortzz on Apr 19, 2017 7:22:07 GMT -5
Hello, I'm just wondering how many of you run cone filters, the reason I ask is on my Yamaha RD250F the standard box is critical and Yamaha put a lot of work into getting it correct and when you try and put a cone filter on that it just doesn't feel right at all revs but the standard box gets it correct at all revs, so my question is , is it as critical on the H1E , I'm thinking the H1E engine is far more simpler than the RD,,
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Post by Jim on Apr 19, 2017 8:18:14 GMT -5
From everything I've heard, your description is pretty accurate for H1s as well. Uni filters are better, but it's hard to beat the stock airbox. Battleax on the US boards runs PVC pipe extensions between his H1 carbs and his Uni filters, and reports much improved bottom and midrange. I've done top gear roll-ons next to him, and it does pull very strongly for an H1.
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Post by mortzz on Apr 19, 2017 14:44:07 GMT -5
thanks for your reply its pretty much answers my question not to bother with cone filters
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Post by givr on Apr 19, 2017 16:29:55 GMT -5
A nice mod I've seen is 1 big k&n filter on top of the 1 into 3 stock rubber carb intake without the steel filter housing. From my experience, putting the stock air cleaner on my bone stock h1d made it way more fun to ride. Mind you, I ditched 3 emgo cone filters that the bike came with when I got it. Also used all stock real mikuni jetting. Kawasaki did the hard work, I just needed to source the correct parts.
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Post by mortzz on Apr 23, 2017 15:09:42 GMT -5
A nice mod I've seen is 1 big k&n filter on top of the 1 into 3 stock rubber carb intake without the steel filter housing. From my experience, putting the stock air cleaner on my bone stock h1d made it way more fun to ride. Mind you, I ditched 3 emgo cone filters that the bike came with when I got it. Also used all stock real mikuni jetting. Kawasaki did the hard work, I just needed to source the correct parts. your absolutely spot on , on the RD,S you can buy a Y boot same thing as what you said pal |
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