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Post by givr on May 8, 2016 8:25:11 GMT -5
Last year I acquired a z1 race engine and a detabbed and jig straightened frame from a vrra member. Browney had a 3/4 rickman fairing with a new bubble so I figured while I'm waiting for my top end kz pieces, I'd start putting this together to see how it would look... need longer rear shocks and clipons for openers
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z1b racer
May 8, 2016 8:29:10 GMT -5
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Post by Curtis on May 8, 2016 8:29:10 GMT -5
What size are the forks? I have a spare set of 35mm clip ons you can have
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z1b racer
May 8, 2016 8:32:05 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by givr on May 8, 2016 8:32:05 GMT -5
36mm
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z1b racer
May 8, 2016 9:12:58 GMT -5
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Post by Curtis on May 8, 2016 9:12:58 GMT -5
Well you are SOL on this end lol
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Post by rz350ypvs on May 8, 2016 13:08:45 GMT -5
Awesome! I'd love to have a KZ1000/Z1.. maybe one day.
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Post by drewski on May 8, 2016 19:12:29 GMT -5
Nice one Givr! That'll beast will prove to be quite the rasslin' match at TMSP with clip-ons! Better hit the gym!!
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Post by givr on Jun 13, 2016 18:13:14 GMT -5
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z1b racer
Jun 27, 2016 16:01:52 GMT -5
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Post by givr on Jun 27, 2016 16:01:52 GMT -5
Since I'm just a few days from getting my kz valve seats cut at the shop, figured I'd play with this bike. (Btw walms, my machinist will be boring my set of h1 cylinders and porting after the kz head is done. Jerk! ) In the big pile of clutch parts I have, there are stock dimpled steel plates (2.29mm thick) and some copper coloured plates (2.24mm thick), as well as stock fibre plates (3.8mm thick) and some thin ones (2.6mm thick). I imagine that the thinner plates are used so more of them can be added for higher hp engines. Does anyone have a idea on the proper configuration for the extra plates and where they go and how many? Ie. Inside, outside, middle. Kzrider site isn't much help. Hope Rick or some other 4 banger gurus can chime in on the right approach here. My rationale to approach this is to measure the stack height of a stock setup and then match that to a version that has the extra plates in it. Also found this roller bearing pusher, but I think its missing a washer, dont think one side is supposed to ride on the aluminum spring plate or the pusher itself, which is also aluminum. Would figure both sides of the bearing needs to ride on a steel washer. Can anyone confirm?
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Post by autofobe on Jun 27, 2016 16:25:08 GMT -5
Between the hubs the inner & outer are friction plates.steels every other one. The friction plates should be 3.5mm on a chain bike. The thin ones (2.7mm) came from a shaft bike.Steels should be ok if not warped.
Brad
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z1b racer
Jun 27, 2016 16:37:18 GMT -5
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Post by givr on Jun 27, 2016 16:37:18 GMT -5
Good to know brad, thanks. Interesting that these clutches dont have the wave spring between the steels. Guess they didn't need them.
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z1b racer
Jun 27, 2016 16:42:21 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by givr on Jun 27, 2016 16:42:21 GMT -5
Also, the steels are stamped out, what side does the sharp edge face? In towards the engine or out? Having a bit of a brain fart...
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Post by autofobe on Jun 27, 2016 17:00:07 GMT -5
If they say out.You will see out when installed.Must be some after market steels.
Brad
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z1b racer
Jun 27, 2016 17:07:11 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by givr on Jun 27, 2016 17:07:11 GMT -5
Just googled it. Rounded edges in, less likely for a plate to hang up when engaged. Sharp edge out.
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Post by autofobe on Jun 27, 2016 17:25:23 GMT -5
Can't really confirm on the washer but the roller pusher was used on the later models 78 or 9 I think. Ned would know as he did the Z1r or Rick is the man.I'm just a rookie. Brad
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Post by Walms on Jun 27, 2016 17:44:42 GMT -5
(Btw walms, my machinist will be boring my set of h1 cylinders and porting after the kz head is done. Jerk! ) I resemble that remark Givr!
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