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Post by Walms on Apr 18, 2014 22:34:17 GMT -5
What was the protocol on this for a H1? Memory tell's me .010" off all the steels but I hate relying on memory!  |
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Post by JA-Moo on Apr 19, 2014 0:38:48 GMT -5
There isn't one for the H1. You can't get an extra plate in. The 750 is another story........
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Post by Walms on Apr 19, 2014 7:37:37 GMT -5
Really? You see, this is why I don't rely on memory... I would have laid money on it that LC put an extra plate in his clutch... At least I recall him thinning the steels.
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Post by JA-Moo on Apr 19, 2014 13:29:00 GMT -5
He might have, with special machining. The H2 is pretty easy to do.
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pk
2nd Gear
Posts: 77
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Post by pk on Apr 20, 2014 12:47:55 GMT -5
My H1E with a 15 plate Barnett kit:
The outer friction plate is the one with the short tabs which normally goes under the steel ring on a H2.
No machining on center hub. Just ground down the washer between hub and basket from 2.5mm to 2.0mm.
This is Kevlar friction plates. No slip, no drag and I can shift down when standing still and engine running.
Starting the 6th riding season with this clutch now. Still good as new. And yes, I have all the wavy separating rings.
More info here: www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2847&p=27999&hilit=Barnett+15+plate#p27999
PK
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Apr 20, 2014 14:21:23 GMT -5
Great info!
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Post by Walms on Apr 20, 2014 15:42:40 GMT -5
Thanks PK!
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Post by JA-Moo on Apr 20, 2014 19:27:27 GMT -5
Learn something new everyday! I don't like Barnette stuff, but hey........
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Post by rocket on May 11, 2014 18:27:43 GMT -5
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2014 4:19:22 GMT -5
Learn something new everyday! at your age John, I'd say that is quite normal  |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2014 4:26:11 GMT -5
Barnett are great if you use the right oil . yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawn. I only ever had a clutch slip once, I found draining the tranny and using that red crap to light my woodstove ended all my problems. |
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Post by Walms on May 12, 2014 8:29:41 GMT -5
I'd be surprised that an oil branded by a major manufacturer specifically designed for a 2 stroke gearbox would cause clutch slipping... I'm calling BS pal! |
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Post by miller on Jun 1, 2014 14:21:45 GMT -5
What I did was thin the steel plates from 1.6 mm to 1.3 mm. This is enough to allow fitting another set of plates (steel+friction). For extra safety to prevent the outer friction to jump out of outer basket an early type friction plate is fitted. Those early friction plates have a steel body with 'ears'. By having those 'ears' pointing inward, no way they jump out.
Thinning the shim is another good trick! Never thought of that.
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Post by MooKaw on Jul 5, 2014 12:09:48 GMT -5
He might have, with special machining. The H2 is pretty easy to do. What is the best way to upgrade an H2 clutch? I have read some saying to take .030 off the inner hub, thin down the two washers, even use H1 steels that are supposedly thinner. If you don't have the ability to thin washers or mill the hub sounds like using H1 steels is the best way if they are in fact slim enough to allow another H2 friction and H1 steel. I have also heard that Barnet frictions are a bit slimmer.... So what is the truth  |
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Jul 7, 2014 8:03:09 GMT -5
I run 7 H1 steel discs, and 8 EBC friction plates on my H2.
It is totally plug and play, as the H1 plates seems to be 1,6mm and H2 2.0mm.
7 x 0,4mm = 2,1mm
Add another disc, and you have 0,5mm left for the friction plate. BUT, there is just enough space for that friction plate without doing anything, at least that was the case on my H2.
BUT, you will deal with a little drag, especially when warm as the friction plates tends to swell a little. But no problem as I see it, and the clutch now takes the torque it did not manage without slipping prior to upgrade.
Jorgen
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