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Post by Walms on Nov 12, 2012 19:47:12 GMT -5
Everyone likes a different "feel" in handling anyway, it may just suit you well.... Good point. I'll know myself after the first ride if I don't like the longer swinger. I'll be honest, I'm just trying to avoid the expense of shortening it...
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Post by Walms on Nov 12, 2012 19:52:16 GMT -5
The tail on your bike looks cool Daffey, those signals look like they were made for it too, nice find.
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Post by bake on Nov 12, 2012 21:25:09 GMT -5
My special is 2" longer than stock from using a GSXR swingarm and I will probably shorten it one day as it slows down corner initialization and makes it less wheelie prone..... and I happen to like the odd wheelie.
Yours looks like it would be easiest to shorten at the front.
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Post by daffey1 on Nov 19, 2012 7:32:55 GMT -5
Hey Ja-moo, the distance from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle in the shortest position is 55 inches, there is no motor in frame and the bike is on axle stands but this spec should be close enough to do some calculations
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Post by JA-Moo on Nov 19, 2012 15:13:30 GMT -5
Hey Ja-moo, the distance from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle in the shortest position is 55 inches, there is no motor in frame and the bike is on axle stands but this spec should be close enough to do some calculations I was a bit confused, as 55 seemed really short for a 2" longer swinger. Then I looked back at the pics, and unloaded, there is a lot of down angle on the swinger, so that shortens things up a lot. Without knowing the angle or sag, it's hard to say if it will end up to much down angle or not. And to get your trail figures, I need the distance from center of front axle to the ground, triple tree off set, and your rake angle. And anyway, it would be goo too have those numbers for later reference.
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Post by lc on Nov 19, 2012 15:29:16 GMT -5
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Post by Walms on Nov 19, 2012 15:35:06 GMT -5
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Post by daffey1 on Nov 19, 2012 17:07:12 GMT -5
Thanks again guys, but Ja-moo is right, with out the bike sitting upright fully dressed so that the suspension has it's proper sag set up, the rest of the measurements would be at best just guesses But that dosen't mean I'm not going to try out these measurments any way sometime in the near future;)
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Post by daffey1 on Jan 11, 2013 17:30:19 GMT -5
Well it's been a while since my last "report". I've been spending time on deciding to use carb adapters or mounting the manifolds direct to the cylinders as well as trying to do a little porting work. I decided to go with the adapter plates as I can make these myself. Here is the before and after pic with the manifold matched to the intake port. This is my shot at enlarging the transfer port openings in the cylinder and matching them to the case openings Now it is starting to look better. Next step after I get my crank back is to get the ex ports raised and ad a squish band. A little out of my comfort zone.
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Post by lc on Jan 11, 2013 18:57:48 GMT -5
Nice job!!!
Intakes look PERFECT, without allot of unneeded contraptions! ;D ;D ;D
J
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Post by Walms on Jan 11, 2013 19:27:42 GMT -5
Looks great Fred! I have no idea what LC is on about... ;D You could always cut more of the liner cutout. I believe they could go almost flush with the mating surface. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that...
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Post by lc on Jan 11, 2013 19:34:24 GMT -5
Looks great Fred! I have no idea what LC is on about... ;D I guess you wouldn't ;D ;D ;D You could always cut more of the liner cutout. I believe they could go almost flush with the mating surface. Agreed, that nice big rad on the aft side would safely allow a higher cutout Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on that...
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Post by JA-Moo on Jan 11, 2013 22:35:43 GMT -5
Actually, for max flow, run you piston down the bore until the transfers are just beginning to open. Mark the cylinder cut-outs by following the cutout in the bottom of the piston. Cutting them any higher is of no consequence, because at that point it is the piston cut-outs that are the controlling factor of the flow.
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Post by daffey1 on Feb 16, 2013 9:17:33 GMT -5
I'm a little slow here, but got my crank back from NH Cycle last week. NICE job, clean, oiled, wrapped in plastic, where it will stay for a while . The cost was $250.00 plus parts and shipping. It looks too nice to be put inside a motor All around very nice guys to talk to and they do a great job
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Post by klnteg on Feb 17, 2013 20:28:58 GMT -5
Looking great!!! I can't wait to see finished product!
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