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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 9, 2023 16:31:10 GMT -5
I checked at the red output wires from the cdi. Not much of a reading about 9V from 2 and 0 from the third. I will get a hand from Debbie to make sure the connection of the meter is good. I did this one on my own.
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 10, 2023 7:49:59 GMT -5
Z to the rescue.! Ian is coming with a box full of confirmed-good components next week. let the games begin....
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 15, 2023 10:41:28 GMT -5
We started at one end and changed each part with known good ones from Z's spare engine. Nothing worked. Suddenly we had a faint spark on the right cylinder. I put a jumper on the left and we got a spark there. So, we made up 3 jumper wires from the red output to each coil and got nothing. We wondered about the kill switch but when we had spark , it was with the kill switch on. And, nothing with it off so it was ok too. Something in the wiring is not good but we have something from the ignition boxes. Now I am looking for a main harness.
We replaced the ignition rotor first. Then the boxes. Then the stator. The coils are grounded back to the main ground which is done all the way down to the engine. All lights and horn work and use the same ground so I must assume that the coils are properly grounded.
Thanks to my good friend Z for the parts and fun afternoon. Then he and Debbie had fun exchanging stories and sharing a bunch of wine while I looked on prohibited from drinking.....
Hopefully, I don't get kicked off this board for not drinking.... My advice to you guys: Don't get old....
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Post by autofobe on Mar 15, 2023 16:17:47 GMT -5
You don’t need a battery in that bike so you should be able to make a simple wiring harness just for the ignition.
Brad
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 16, 2023 7:38:58 GMT -5
That was kind of what we did Brad. The stator assembly is from Ian's spare engine so we know it works so the white wires are good. This engine was running in a bike up to last fall. We changed the boxes to the ones from that bike too so , they are good. We ran jumper wires for the reds from the boxes to each coil. and ran a wire to the main ground for each coil. We also changed the ignition rotor so basically all components came from a working engine.
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Post by mraxl on Mar 16, 2023 10:23:44 GMT -5
Did you check the air gap on pickups? Is the cdi grounded? Did you remove the wht/blk wire from cdi?
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 16, 2023 12:36:21 GMT -5
Yes to all the above Dale
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Post by lc on Mar 16, 2023 17:38:12 GMT -5
This might be a long shot:
Do you have an actual H2 alternator rotor installed?
The H2 rotor and the H1D's rotor look identicle. However the crank key way cut in the taper are in different positions.
If the incorrect alternator rotor is fitted the low speed and high speed coils will fail to charge the CDIs properly.
J
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 17, 2023 7:16:31 GMT -5
Thanks Scott. I found that out the hard way. Originally, I replaced the whole stator/ig unit with one from a D. The timing was off by about 60 degrees. We used Z's complete assembly including the rotor.
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Post by autofobe on Mar 17, 2023 11:04:54 GMT -5
Might be a stupid question.When you used jumpers for the reds did you make sure the proper box was going to the proper coil? Was the blue connected. If your using the ignition switch is it the right one? Brad
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 17, 2023 11:43:34 GMT -5
Ignition switch, instruments and bar switches are all H2B. The reds were jumped to the correct coils. Even if it wasn't any coill connected would fire, just not at the right time. I have disconnected the black/white wire from the boxes so it would spark without the key on. Tried both with and without the key on.
I had a beautiful spark yesterday on the left cylinder. I switched its red to another coil and got nothing. Replaced the coil and got nothing so I figured that the 3 way coil ground was no good . Made up a new ground for all coils. Still have nothing not even the left one.
If I connect a test lite to the + battery terminal and touch it to any of the coil grounds, it lights up. Getting a bit PO'd now. The frame where the coils ground has been sanded down and is bare metal. Test lite lights up when I touch it to that sanded spot.
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Post by autofobe on Mar 17, 2023 12:12:50 GMT -5
Sometimes a bad box can stop the others from sparking. To check, disconnect all the green wires from the rectifier and connect them one at a time trying For a single spark. If you can’t get an individual spark from any I would look at the low speed coil. Brad
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Post by kawonda750 on Mar 17, 2023 13:06:12 GMT -5
This whole stator is off Z's running H2. same with every ignition piece. rotor, boxes stator.
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Post by autofobe on Mar 17, 2023 13:06:28 GMT -5
You really don’t know if any used parts are good without checking them. Brad
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Post by autofobe on Mar 17, 2023 13:07:32 GMT -5
It’s easy enough to disconnect the boxes and try them one at a time. Even though you think all of z’s parts are good there has to be an issue in there some where. Brad
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