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Post by TracksH1E on Apr 26, 2021 9:35:24 GMT -5
![]() When I do a restoration (or a "refresh" is more what I do), I try to keep the vehicle as original as possible. If a part can be refreshed, cleaned, lubricated, repainted, repaired etc, then that is what I like to do. Anyone can just buy all new parts and put them back on the vehicle. I like the challenge (and sometimes the cost) of making something old, like new again. I'm definitely not a concourse kind of guy. That being said, when I bought this H1E, it didn't have any badges on it. I've posted on several sites trying to find old ones that I can refresh and reuse but have not got any response. I've checked with a couple online stores and they are out of stock. So until I can find a couple good used ones I decided to open up AutoCAD and, to the best of my ability, from many photos online, I produced a 3D image of a 1974 "500" badge. I then sent it to my brother, who happens to have a 3D printer and had him print me out a few prototypes. These are something that I can attach with emblem tape for now and keep looking for originals. Cost of new repros - ~$60 each Cost of these - ~ $4 each They may still need some clean up when I get them but for now they might look OK @ 60 MPH.
And for some reason, this site will not let me upload a 87kb photo. So you have to go here to see it.
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Post by kawonda750 on Apr 26, 2021 10:03:03 GMT -5
Nice.
Plus, I like that fact that you don't want to do the full restos. That's how I feel too. I would also rather make improvements over 50 year old technology such as better brakes and shocks. Some of the comments I see on the FB international forum seem too crazy. I saw someone give a guy crap for using the stainless allen bolts rather than the strippable JIS headed screws.
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Post by TracksH1E on Apr 26, 2021 12:50:56 GMT -5
Some things needed to be replaced or changed. The seat was torn so I put a new seat cover on it. The bike was stripped and painted red primer, so I have to repaint it. The grips were roached, mirrors were missing, things like that.
Some of the engine screws are not pretty so I might buy a new set of those, but I will stick to the JIS heads. I find that if you use a cordless impact with the right bit and enough forward pressure, they will most always come out without issue.
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