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Post by crazycunuc on Apr 17, 2017 19:54:34 GMT -5
Awesome, thanks!
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Post by ballvo on Apr 29, 2017 11:27:19 GMT -5
OK, so where was I?  Oh yeah, still working on my bike (when I should be riding)...  Rear axle was pretty grungy. Didn't know if the adjusters would be recoverable but, using the magic sauce and some elbow grease, they turned out fine.      Just to make sure I zinc plated the spacer and the end of the axle itself. The difference is subtle but evident.  CDI boxes were also a mess so got the full disassembly and cleaning routine.          And mounted on the bike. I didn't bother with trying to replace the gold cadmium (?) finish.  The handlebar controls got a full disassemble for cleaning.    Notice the incorrect square black toggle for the light switch. I happened to have one of these controls in my spares so ended up using the correct knob from it, as well as the top of the cover itself. It was in much better condition plus it still had the orignal red paint indicator for "lights ON".  And repair (had a broken signal light wire).   And refurbishing, which included wet-sanding the cases with decreasing grit sizes and finished off with fine steel wool, trying for the original aluminum look rather than highly polished. Replaced the wiring loom, which also meant replacing the bullet connectors. Gotta thank Ari for the hot tip of using a bit of di-electric grease as lube when threading the wires through the loom.    And the finished product.    Finally, for this installment, both controls mounted back on the bike.   Catch you all next time... Cheers, N. |
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Post by III on Apr 29, 2017 17:00:58 GMT -5
Right on Bud, looking better every day.
I love evaporust and buy it by the 5 gallon pail at Amazon. 80 bucks
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Post by H2 Dude on Apr 30, 2017 11:21:00 GMT -5
WOW looking good Neil
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Post by ballvo on May 8, 2017 22:32:28 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I've been going at this resto pretty much non-stop, getting at least a little bit done every day. I decided to give myself a day off from the garage today so thought I'd better post a few more pics. Just got it back as a roller on the weekend so I'll try to pick up the pace and catch up with the photos. I should have my rebuilt crank and freshly bored jugs and new pistons back before the end of the week. Getting close but still lots to do... Footpegs and lower controls got the usual treatment: full disassembly, cleaning, blasting, powder coat and re-assemble.    The passenger pegs were pretty rough but, luckily the inner chrome bar is the same as on later H2s so I was able to select the best of the bits from this bike and my H2B (which weren't in use). The footpeg rubbers differ in that the chrome end of the peg is fully exposed on the H2/A but partially covered by the rubbers on the H2B/C.    Front pegs turned out nice as well. While working away on the hardware I've been leaving the rubber bits in a ziplock bag with a generous application of Armor All. Sometimes for an hour or two, sometimes a day or two.    Because I've got rearsets on my H2B I was also able to combine the best of the parts from both bikes to come up with a pretty decent shifter mechanism.     Somehow I don't have a before picture of the kicker but it was rusty and grease-covered at the linkage but I was able to get it shining as well.  The snorkel for the air cleaner (from my H2B) was very grey from oxidation (?) and I was having trouble getting it to look as nice as the rest of the assembly. I'd resigned myself to just using it but then discovered a much nicer one in a used parts bin.  Got the official VIN decal from RB.  I think I have the incorrect headlight ring for the bucket I have. The ring was very tough to get on. On inspection I discovered that the upper tab on the bulb that attaches to the ring was colliding with the high beam bulb socket mounted in the headlight shell so I trimmed the tab back as far as I could with a dremel tool and solved that problem. There are four possible headlamp assemblies for the H2 line so ordering the correct headlight ring off ebay is a bit of a crap shoot.  This is the lower tab (which was the same as the upper), followed by the modified upper tab.   Time for some shut-eye. Cheers, N. |
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Post by crazycunuc on May 9, 2017 7:20:41 GMT -5
Looking great as always!
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Post by ballvo on May 18, 2017 8:14:07 GMT -5
Wish me luck, boys. Got my rebuilt crank with new Vesrah rods, bearings and rubber seals. Also got the jugs back, fitted to new Wossner pistons. NOS kickstarter gear - check. Complete seal kit and gasket set - check.
I've taken today and tomorrow off work with plans to get the engine assembled. Pics to follow...
Cheers,
N.
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Post by crazycunuc on May 18, 2017 8:35:43 GMT -5
Good luck Neil!
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Post by ballvo on May 21, 2017 17:21:39 GMT -5
Well, I got my engine block assembled and mounted in the frame. Still have to refresh the covers so none of them in place yet. Pics of that adventure to follow but first I want to try and catch up with stuff that's already done. Carbs, for instance...they appeared to be in surprisingly good shape - a bit dirty on the outside but all three were very clean inside. Did the full teardown and overnight soak in Berryman's.      While tearing them apart I discovered a stripped pilot jet in the RH carb and ended up making things worse while trying to remove it , to the point of needing to replace the carb body. Zambia to the rescue (Thanks again, Ian!) I had the replacement carb in short order and gave it the love it needed.   On to the wheels. Rear was a bit rusty inside the rim but was able to clean it up, first with a wire brush, then a wire wheel on my bench grinder.     The front was another story. One section was particularly bad, rust-wise AND the rim had a significant dent in it that I only noticed when removing the tire. I cleaned up the rim in a similar way and tried wailing away on the rim to try and straighten the dent but no such luck.   Since I have the original rims from my H2B in like-new condition I decided to replace the front rim. Never having built a wheel before I was a bit intimidated by the whole process, but I just went ahead and did it. Turned out it wasn't that difficult and pretty satisfying when I got 'er done.      The spokes and nipples were in good shape so they all got the Evaporust/steel wool treatment and were re-used. Some of that corrosion inside the wheel ate a bit at the heads of some of the nipples but none of that's visible.   The hub was in very good condition and just got a cleaning - no need for powder or paint - and new bearings.  I trued the wheel over a couple of days, walking away if I got frustrated and returning later to make some further progress.     Reassembled with freshened up chrome rotor bolts and new tab washers.     Finished the wheels off with BT-45 for rubber. The 2x4 frame I built is one of the handiest tools I have for working on wheels. Just large enough opening for a rotor to drop into while the rim is supported by the outside corners. Tire Slick tire lube is another great product (available at Princess Auto) - a nice slimy sauce for slipping those tires onto the rims that dries completely and doesn't leave any moisture inside the wheel like soapy water does.  The fuel petcock got the teardown treatment, into the ultrasonic cleaner and all the rubber bits and filters replaced. Filters were glued in place with Seal-All.       There were two non-matching, aftermarket spark plug boots on a couple of the HT leads. I looked into replacing with original style ones but they are such a pain to install (I disected the one OEM one to see...) that I opted for the commonly used NGK LZFH caps.  Finished cleaning up the coils, installed the new caps and mounted them on the bike.    Gotta take a break. I'll be back. |
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Post by zambia on May 21, 2017 17:51:16 GMT -5
Now this is a great thread - inspiring and detailed! Keep it coming Neil!
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Post by crazycunuc on May 21, 2017 19:31:01 GMT -5
Now this is a great thread - inspiring and detailed! Keep it coming Neil! Couldn't agree more! Two thumbs up from me |
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Post by trevors78kh400 on May 22, 2017 17:41:34 GMT -5
Great job Neil I am sure your having fun. |
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Post by ballvo on May 28, 2017 12:38:30 GMT -5
Bear with me guys, I'm almost caught up I did a complete overhaul of the rear wheel short of disassembling the hub from the rim and respoking. That may come later but I didn't think I had enough time for it just now. The sprocket and carrier were filthy but the sprocket seems fine and will be re-used. Soaked it for a few days in varsol and got it cleaned up as best I could. New bearings, seals and sprocket lock washers       Even the tire clamps got the treatment since I wanted to keep them but the rusty studs would have really detracted from the otherwise clean wheel.   And almost ready to mount.   The brake stay and rod were both pretty weathered so I went at them first with a wire brush. I finally came up with a tall glass container to use for Zn-plating of long stuff. In both cases the pieces were still too long for the jar but since the liquid covered more than half of each I just zapped 'em, turned them upside down and gave them another shot. Did this a couple of time each for a thicker coating. Finished them off with steel wool and they almost look like new.      Once installed the rear end is looking pretty sweet.    While I worked away on the wheels my brother came over to pitch in and happily assumed the job of "case" officer. He did a mighty fine job of it and I couldn't resist dropping them into the frame for a preview of things to come.     I purchased a 'new' wiring harness for the build. I've used it but wasn't too thrilled with the quality of the product. Initially I was disappointed when I saw it was simply bound in electrical tape. On closer inspection I realized that the original was mostly done the same way. Even so, the taping was poorly done in several spots and some wires are just color coded with a piece of colored tape at each end, which is falling off in a number of places.      All the while working on this stuff things are arriving in the mail.    By the way, it's not 'All work and no play' around here. On Mother's Day our CVMG section held it's first Swap Meet and Show 'n Shine. It was a great success, well attended and we made a few bucks for club. And I won a prize for one of my bikes in the show     The final thing I needed to do before beginning my engine assembly was to address a pushed in case pin. This one was on the kickstarter shaft. The resource site has a pictorial how-to on doing this, which I mostly followed, however for the kickstarter pin repair it suggests drilling at a steep angle into the base of the lug holding the pin (2nd photo). This seemed too tight a spot and too high an angle so I carefully measured and marked the spot where the pin would protrude through the top of the case and drilled a fairly small hole to allow in a common nail that I thought I'd use as a punch.      That pin is a TIGHT friction fit and my nail idea didn't work out. Had to go to a larger drill bit to accomodate an actual punch (and a bigger hammer). This got the thing moving and back where it belonged.    Finally, plugged the hole with JB Weld and when it had set, gave it a bit of a sanding. Most people wouldn't even see it - Sshhhhh!   Stay tuned - engine build is coming up. N. |
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Post by kawonda750 on May 29, 2017 17:47:16 GMT -5
Does your Berrymen's stink Neil?
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Post by ballvo on May 30, 2017 9:00:40 GMT -5
Does your Berrymen's stink Neil? Not too bad Dave; I've smelled worse. (not personally of course  , but you know what I mean) N. |
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, but you know what I mean)