jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Jul 3, 2015 17:14:50 GMT -5
That's a cool idea. Knocking sensor connected to an solenoid power jet. How cool is that :-D
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Post by Walms on Jul 3, 2015 18:13:15 GMT -5
Does the Zeel have any inputs?
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Post by MooKaw on Jul 11, 2015 20:12:34 GMT -5
I've seen a few knock sensors for electronic iggys and EFI setups but nothing we could use without a lot of kludging up... but then that is half the fun of adding 21st century "extras" to a 20th century bike I'd love for some genius to put together a bolt on kit of programmable iggy, EFI and a good way (knock sensor) to save us from detonation issues. I plan to use the same head temp gauges as Darth but again the response time won't save you from a catastrophe .
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Post by oilman on Jul 24, 2015 23:31:01 GMT -5
More questions I'm afraid. Had a chance to putter with a dial gauge on the timing. Best I can tell is the crank marks are or were bang on with the dial gauge. I'll explain the were. I'm having a tough time getting the points to open on the mark with the points open any more than 11 to 12 thou. The plates that carry the points are maxed out counter clock wise. I tried loosening the alternator case and prying it counter clock wise. I loosened off the aluminium points plate and nudged it counter clock wise as well. At this point my crank case marks may not jive with the dial gauge any more. I'll try and take a pic tomorrow as it will explain much better than I can.
Another thing I tried was a timing light. My idle is about 1700 with the slides on the floor. R and L fires to the clockwise side of the mark. Which is advanced? I understand that as rpm increases on two strokes the timing should retard? C cylinder is a problem. Its firing all over the place, before, at and after. The points for C are arcing too. I'm pretty sure I put these points and condensers in. But that was 08 or 09. And regardless of use I guess that condenser could have failed?
Cylinder temps are typically the same on L and C. R is usually 30 degrees or less lower. Typically 115C and 85 ish light riding exhaust side of head. Plugs are a little black on L and C. Mostly white on R. Compression about 135 L and C 130 R. Pulls like a diesel from stop. Power band from 6K. But making some extra racket close to red line. I have been riding mostly between 3k and 6k. Perhaps it will live a little longer? Except when I see old people in there oil stain free tees and khaki shorts out for an evening stroll. Then I pull 9k and empty all that extra 20:1 oil out of the pipes for them. Oh ya that's another info bit. Been running 94 oct (best we can get here) and 20:1 or last tank was 25:1.
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Post by Curtis on Jul 25, 2015 5:26:53 GMT -5
If it's arcing, you need a new point for that cylinder...
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roadrash
2nd Gear
10 McNab St.E. Port Dover
Posts: 272
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Post by roadrash on Jul 25, 2015 10:05:40 GMT -5
If it's arcing you need a new condenser.I went through three last summer.Now have Boyer electronic.Much better,no worries.
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Post by Curtis on Jul 25, 2015 14:27:30 GMT -5
If it's arcing you need a new condenser.I went through three last summer.Now have Boyer electronic.Much better,no worries. Boyer is not a great system, Big draw on the electrical system,
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Post by oilman on Jul 25, 2015 15:02:49 GMT -5
I looked at the Boyer a few years ago. And came to the same conclusion as Curtis. But an electronic igy would be nice.
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