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Post by rocket on Aug 6, 2014 20:09:33 GMT -5
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Post by daffey1 on Aug 7, 2014 6:09:29 GMT -5
That's the stuff I have been telling people to use and i am using it myself. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try it out this weekend. i know in the MX world, I have never had any customers have any issues with it.
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Post by H2 Dude on Aug 7, 2014 9:12:44 GMT -5
I use Pennzoil 80/90 GL5 rating..no slippage when I do wring it or when the lad was riding the H2..works great in the Water Buffalo as well.
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Post by Walms on Aug 7, 2014 9:24:14 GMT -5
It goes to show you that just about anything works! The bellray website says specifically that their hypoid GL-5 oil is not recommended for wet clutch applications.
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Post by rocket on Aug 8, 2014 7:28:05 GMT -5
It goes to show you that just about anything works! The bellray website says specifically that their hypoid GL-5 oil is not recommended for wet clutch applications. Interesting . I'm not a fan of bel-ray as my clutched slipped like hell with it . Guess I now know why lol . Thanks walms .
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Post by pipe welder on Aug 10, 2014 19:02:01 GMT -5
I'll pick up a jug and give it a try. Thanks Mike.
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Post by pipe welder on Aug 21, 2014 21:08:29 GMT -5
Tried the H2 with the new oil tonight. It's definitely better than it was but still slipping when it gets in the power band. I'll get the clutch sorted out in the fall.
The Hp Trans oil now has a new label on the bottle and it says right on the label "helps reduce clutch slippage" I needed an oil change so it was an easy call to try that.
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Post by Jim on Aug 21, 2014 21:21:00 GMT -5
When I put a 360 engine in my Dodge 150 van that came with a 318, the torque converter's lockup clutch shuddered under heavy throttle. Someone told me to try "Dr. Tranny's Instant Shudder Fixx". Now, talk about something that sounds like snake oil, but the local parts shop swore that the transmission repair guys buy it all the time. So I got a little tube of it and put it in the trans. I swear that by the time I was across the city limits headed home, the shudder problem was cured. A year and a half later, no slipping/shuddering.
So next time a wet motorcycle clutch starts slipping, I'm going to put a little in the oil and see what happens. What the hell, if it's not good I can just change the oil. I'll let you know how it goes.
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dickjny
2nd Gear
Wish the best to all my KTC, US & Canadian Triple rider friends! Dick J. - NY
Posts: 211
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Post by dickjny on Sept 6, 2014 4:34:20 GMT -5
Folks, - I run nothing but ATF and change it often. Same bike for 41 years. Very little wear in tranny but have had to make repairs due to abuse (drag racking). ... Dick J. - NY
Drag racer - If you can't win, make your competition set a new record!
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Post by Jim on Sept 6, 2014 8:41:35 GMT -5
I've posted it before, Dick, but I went to ATF in the '70s when is was recommended by Kawasaki and stuck with it. My H2 has something around 40,000 miles on it and the case halves have never been apart. It's time to get the crank rebuilt, so I'm looking forward to inspecting the transmission. Some say it will be destroyed by the poor oil, but it shifts fine, never comes out of gear, doesn't make any odd noises, Barnett clutch doesn't slip, etc..
And as always, I'm not recommending ATF to anyone. Gear oils are probably better.
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jyrgnorway
2nd Gear
H2B CAFE, H2B, H1B, F8 BISON, Z1000ELR, RD500
Posts: 468
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Post by jyrgnorway on Dec 20, 2014 8:01:30 GMT -5
I've posted it before, Dick, but I went to ATF in the '70s when is was recommended by Kawasaki and stuck with it. My H2 has something around 40,000 miles on it and the case halves have never been apart. It's time to get the crank rebuilt, so I'm looking forward to inspecting the transmission. Some say it will be destroyed by the poor oil, but it shifts fine, never comes out of gear, doesn't make any odd noises, Barnett clutch doesn't slip, etc.. And as always, I'm not recommending ATF to anyone. Gear oils are probably better. There is a H2 here covered 30000 miles, and the owner recently opened up the engine. It was perfect all over, incl. forks. The bike did the mileage on ATF only.
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Post by papagriff on Dec 20, 2014 10:05:56 GMT -5
thanks rocket- that looks like a good choice and is easy to find. My guess is that Kawasaki pulled a general motors back then. they made a lot of bikes for the general public with weak clutches and then recommended atf for its better friction. I could see it for racing, may gain 1/2 a hp with the lower viscosity but with the prices now for replacement parts I'll stick with the gear oil.
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Post by Jim on Dec 20, 2014 10:29:14 GMT -5
I'm not sure we should blame them too much for weak clutches. Clutch design walks a fine line between holding the engine torque and saving the transmission, case, and crank if something happens like a chain breaks and gets wadded up, locking the transmission suddenly. You want it to hold reliably, but slip when something goes wrong.
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Post by papagriff on Dec 20, 2014 12:01:25 GMT -5
many other makers of bikes in that era had clutch problems when used hard. lots of road tests mentioned these problems in magazines at the time. manufactures used clutches from earlier bikes and the same parts in different models. I think that the H1 and H2 diameters of the clutch basket are the same size which does not seem right. compared to newer bikes having much larger diameter clutches. don't want to get the pot stirred on this but the larger diameter and friction area also allows for weaker springs to be used. thanks for the hydraulic clutch kits again.
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Post by Jim on Dec 20, 2014 14:28:38 GMT -5
I think that the H1 and H2 diameters of the clutch basket are the same size which does not seem right. The H1 has a higher primary reduction ratio, so the torque on the clutch isn't as different as it seems like it should be at first thought.
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