koob
2nd Gear
Posts: 40
|
Post by koob on Dec 11, 2014 13:32:13 GMT -5
Pipe welder, have you considered using a rod instead of cable between brake pedal& rear drum? Less authentic but maybe stronger and easier to do? I used 1/4" SS round stock on my KH500 when I went to rearsets without much trouble...very nice work on your project so far, eager to see the finished product!
|
|
|
Post by pipe welder on Dec 11, 2014 14:51:33 GMT -5
I'm planning to use the cable to keep it authentic. Extra work but it seems this whole project is full of "extra work" Lol
|
|
paulh
3rd Gear
Adrenaline is brown
Posts: 528
|
Post by paulh on Dec 12, 2014 9:17:57 GMT -5
Glad you went Old school on the rear sets! They look fantastic! Pipes?? Old school high boys would look great....but Just a little extra work!
|
|
|
Post by pipe welder on Dec 12, 2014 17:04:21 GMT -5
As far as pipes goes Paul, I'm hoping to find the time to go for lunch one day with Lc and Henry and have good look at Henry's original H2r and the pipes he has. I also spent some time about a year ago talking to Walms about making a set with a modified header section that would follow closer to the path and shape of the original H2r pipes. Mr Walms can do amazing things and I just have to weld it up. I sure look forward to seeing those pipes hangin out behind a green fairing one day!
|
|
|
Post by Walms on Dec 12, 2014 17:17:46 GMT -5
Jim, if you have time to weld them, the segment number could go up to be less faceted. Were you thinking of making the pipes for H2R spec? Just throwing it out there but the sweeping H2R pipes look like something that could be hydroformed.. I have something I'd like to try regarding that method Jim, if you are keen, let me know.
|
|
|
Post by drewski on Dec 12, 2014 20:10:18 GMT -5
Jim, if you have time to weld them, the segment number could go up to be less faceted. Were you thinking of making the pipes for H2R spec? Just throwing it out there but the sweeping H2R pipes look like something that could be hydroformed.. I have something I'd like to try regarding that method Jim, if you are keen, let me know. ... and if you need any more practice before you weld you own... Got a set of WTF's that need your touch.
|
|
|
Post by autofobe on Dec 12, 2014 21:02:14 GMT -5
Hey Jim,I don't know what rear wheel you are using ( I used an early H1 on my H1r)But this is a pic of the H1R rear brake set up.I used an early H1 cable & it was 2 inches short using the stock H1R mount on the frame as shown.Hope this helps. Brad
|
|
|
Post by sooperarthur on Dec 12, 2014 21:16:43 GMT -5
The cable in that picture is far longer then the stock H1R. It mustn't be a H1 cable at all. I was hoping the H1/H1R cables were closer in length.
|
|
|
Post by autofobe on Dec 13, 2014 8:22:56 GMT -5
I just use the pic so he could see the set up.As I said,I used an early H1 cable & it was a couple of inches short.To use an H1 cable he will have to move the mount further down the frame.I did not want to alter my frame so I used a piece of flat stock to get the length I needed.
Brad
|
|
|
Post by pipe welder on Dec 13, 2014 9:21:49 GMT -5
Walms, Hydroforming the front section of the pipes is something I've considered but its off in the future. I can't do any test fitment on pipes till the engine is in and the fairing is ready to mount so it's still a ways off.
|
|
|
Post by Walms on Dec 13, 2014 9:24:58 GMT -5
Will Henry loan you his pipes for reverse engineering? A good question to ask over lunch after you pay the bill.
|
|
|
Post by pipe welder on Dec 13, 2014 9:31:48 GMT -5
Brad, that picture is basically what I will have to make. I'm I'm using the wheels that Rudy had on the race bike. Their not perfect period replica's but their going to have to do. reimeir confirmed the length on the H1 cable and it looks like that's what I need. The one I have is 24" and it's too short. The H1 cable is 29" so I have to get one and make the mount on the frame as per your photo.
|
|
|
Post by pipe welder on Dec 13, 2014 9:49:08 GMT -5
Will Henry loan you his pipes for reverse engineering? A good question to ask over lunch after you pay the bill. Good point Andrew, I could make a quick sketch with the measurements on Henry's that would be quite accurate. I'm also interested in getting a head profile for the squish. I just made a port map of my cylinders and I'm sure my porting will be different from the H2r. Nick confirmed that they had several sets of cylinders for the H2r's with different porting that were designed to be used on specific tracks. For example, Mosport being a high speed track with an extremely long up hill strait required porting that produced as much HP as possible but would thus suffered on some midrange. That was suitable for that particular track but probably was not ideal in a twisty lower speed track with shorter straights where they also used a much lower final drive ratio on the gearing. Nick gave me some maps from Duhamel's motor and I plan to go over some different maps with Lc as porting is a weak spot for me. I would like to compare to Drewski's and Zambia's FBG/drag engine maps just to see and learn also. Henry is a great guy ad I feel privileged just to be able to talk to people like him who are just a wealth of knowledge on this stuff.
|
|
|
Post by Walms on Dec 13, 2014 10:24:40 GMT -5
If you can lay the pipe on a large piece of graph paper and take a picture square as possible at maximum zoom, I can scale that picture in Solidworks and be able to replicate the sweep of the pipes to be pretty accurate just from that, at least close enough for the first mockup, then tweak from there.
|
|
|
Post by Walms on Mar 11, 2015 19:25:23 GMT -5
Jim, fwiw I received an order from Frame Crafters for a set of pipes on a H1R with reversed cylinders. He was planning on modding an existing kit of mine but I was thinking I might be able to nip 2 in the bud. I'm confident I can make a design that works well on both motors. I thought you'd appreciate these shots of his project.
|
|