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Post by Ned on Jan 15, 2013 11:44:54 GMT -5
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Post by lc on Jan 15, 2013 12:05:57 GMT -5
The seller is Tom V "12dot", who posts over at Brad's board. Anyone interested may want to contact him directly by PM there rather than play the ebay game. J
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Post by Walms on Jan 15, 2013 12:28:05 GMT -5
I still plan to send my lines down to Tom and Jim... Im not desperate but it's still on my bucket list. If any of you guys are planning the same thing, we should hookup to save on shipping!
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Post by lc on Jan 15, 2013 12:54:16 GMT -5
FWIW, Reconditioned oil lines results in more efficient (and less) use of the 2T oil, reduces spooge, reduces smoke (especially on start up) and makes the engine easier to tune J
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joker
2nd Gear
Posts: 418
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Post by joker on Jan 15, 2013 14:18:23 GMT -5
I bought a few ball and spring kits from Darth. Haven't installed them yet.
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Post by lc on Jan 15, 2013 14:34:12 GMT -5
Often the brass seats are corroded, hence the valves still seep at rest.
After you install your new parts fill the lines with oil and stand them up over night. Check for any seepage (air in line) the next day......
J
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Post by Ned on Jan 15, 2013 14:52:40 GMT -5
I bought a few ball and spring kits from Darth. Haven't installed them yet. So did I. I installed all three. Broke #1 line. #2 doesn't seep. #3 leaks like nobody's business. I also put together a pressure tester. On dry lines the balls cracked at 2.5psi (original and new ball / springs). I then filled the lines with oil and saw in the neighbourhood of 5 psi cracking pressure. Comments?
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Post by zambia on Jan 15, 2013 16:17:57 GMT -5
I bought a few ball and spring kits from Darth. Haven't installed them yet. So did I. I installed all three. Broke #1 line. #2 doesn't seep. #3 leaks like nobody's business. I also put together a pressure tester. On dry lines the balls cracked at 2.5psi (original and new ball / springs). I then filled the lines with oil and saw in the neighbourhood of 5 psi cracking pressure. Comments? Where did the oil go once the valve cracked? ...
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Post by lc on Jan 15, 2013 17:24:33 GMT -5
The check valve ball and seat seems to be VERY sensitive to any sort of dust/dirt contamination (even possibly a finger print on the ball).
I found the new setup cracks with oil at around 5.2lb and closes and holds pressure at 4.6lb. I glued a ball to a short piece of welding rod and used it as a lapping stick (with home made 1000 grit compound) to clean up the seats. It helps to pull a vacuum while testing with oil so the ball can find/establish its center in the seat. ABSOLUTE cleanliness of the ball/seat must be achieved....
J
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Post by Ned on Jan 15, 2013 17:30:21 GMT -5
So did I. I installed all three. Broke #1 line. #2 doesn't seep. #3 leaks like nobody's business. I also put together a pressure tester. On dry lines the balls cracked at 2.5psi (original and new ball / springs). I then filled the lines with oil and saw in the neighbourhood of 5 psi cracking pressure. Comments? Where did the oil go once the valve cracked? ... All over my bench.
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Post by Ned on Jan 15, 2013 17:34:00 GMT -5
The check valve ball and seat seems to be VERY sensitive to any sort of dust/dirt contamination (even possibly a finger print on the ball).
A fingerprint lc? Quick, someone call David Caruso!
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Post by lc on Jan 15, 2013 17:40:21 GMT -5
The guy who always stands sideways to the camera???!!!! ;D ;D
J
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Post by Ned on Jan 15, 2013 17:42:25 GMT -5
The guy who always stands sideways to the camera???!!!! ;D ;D J That's the guy!
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Post by Ned on Jan 18, 2013 10:14:42 GMT -5
lc, can you share your recipe for 1000 grit compound? And what kind of glue you used? Thanks Sorry about the focus, or complete lack of.
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Post by Walms on Jan 18, 2013 10:28:00 GMT -5
I'm sure there is more than 1 way to lap the seat. I personally would use a piece of hardwood dowel profiled to match the seat. The idea is that the paste's grit will impregnate into the tool giving you better cutting action.
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