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Post by 42sixHemi on Jul 11, 2019 7:01:37 GMT -5
We have the gaskets
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Post by Grant on Jul 12, 2019 7:08:36 GMT -5
Hi Guys
I'm just supposing here.
The engine number of this H2C puts the engine as H2E03117 which is a 1972 (H2 H2E00001 to 23158) but this bike has the EPA valves on the bottom casing. I wonder if that could be the difference as that would make the lower casing from 32401 to 47886 1974 and 1975).
That would make a little sense if they weren't interchangeable: if the original H2C motor was blown (I have an ownership for this bike with a title that is based on a much different H2C-H2E number that doesn't match anything) and the upper casing was from an earlier H2 donor motor was installed and the motor didn't work and instead of fixing it, it was put on eBay for someone like me to buy.
But then again, I haven't had to rebuild many of these motors and I could be misguided in my thoughts.
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Post by Grant on Sept 3, 2019 10:12:43 GMT -5
Okay, I've bought a decent compression gauge and fittings, and have tried cylinders with one, two and three normal head gaskets which gave around 125 - 130, 110 -115 and 90 to 100 psi. All three cylinders were pretty consistent. But even with the other two heads off, it was still hard to kick over. I'm starting to get really frustrated as turning over by hand (with no heads or plugs in) is really easy which in my mind eliminates any seizing, clutch or other mechanical problems like bearings. With the heads off I can use two fingers to kick it over. But put even one head on with a plug then it starts to be a bear. Looks like I'm going to pull the motor this winter and pull it apart.
Anyone have 1975 H2 motor for sale?
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Post by zambia on Sept 3, 2019 11:28:05 GMT -5
That's weird. With those compression readings, it should kick over normally - which isn't to say easily.. but harder than an H1
Do you have transmission fluid in it? Could you remove the head pipes and give it a try - maybe the pipes are clogged?
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Post by Curtis on Sept 3, 2019 13:00:25 GMT -5
Crank is toast
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Post by zambia on Sept 3, 2019 14:11:05 GMT -5
In what way? Just curious
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Post by Curtis on Sept 3, 2019 17:29:27 GMT -5
If it’s hard to roll over with no heads on it there isn’t very many options, Crank is junk where the rods are seizing on the big end Crank is junk where the mains are seizing
Maybe something in the trans ? Not very likely, However the OP is into opening the motor up for a full inspection
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Post by Walms on Sept 3, 2019 18:53:12 GMT -5
Are all the cylinder bores perpendicular to the base? Are you saying torquing only 1 head down causes the stiffness or screwing the plug in that cylinder?
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Post by Walms on Sept 3, 2019 19:10:51 GMT -5
Have a look for a bent rod too.
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Post by Curtis on Sept 3, 2019 19:10:55 GMT -5
I also am getting confused by this Because first is was hard to kick with no plugs in it Now it’s easy to kick with no plugs in but gets hard with one plug in
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Post by Grant on Sept 13, 2019 7:28:13 GMT -5
Hi Guys first off let me thank you for your comments, they do help to send me on different paths of investigation.
with no plugs in, the engine turns over easily by hand or foot
with one plug in, i can't turn the engine over by hand, and notice the resistance with my foot
with two plugs in, the resistance is definitely increased, but on a kick I hear the pop of compression gas escaping three times
with three plugs in, the resistance is enough to hold my 200 pounds on the kickstarter without overcoming the compression unless I jump down on the kickstarter and then only get maybe one or two pops of compression gas escaping
I have tried all of the above with the exhaust pipes loosened by 1/2" from cylinder
I'll first of all pull the cylinders to see if there is any reason for this, but I don't think I'll find an obvious one as the motor turns over with no plugs quite easily eliminating bad bearings and friction problems. With the heads off and turning over freely, the pistons move up and down as they should and there are virtually no scratches on the inside of the cylinders. The pistons do have a little carbon on top so they used to work at some point.
That will be the last thing I do on this bike except take it apart and sell off parts.
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Post by zambia on Sept 13, 2019 9:51:33 GMT -5
With the heads off, can you peer at the piston crown directly and see if it occupies the entire diameter of the bore? I'm wondering if the pistons way too tight (maybe second overbore pistons in first overbore cylinders? That wouldn't necessarily explain why it won't roll over at all with the plugs in, but..it's all I've got. And can you check if there is a bore size on the piston, an arrow or a part number (I know Wiseco has these)?
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Post by zambia on Sept 13, 2019 9:55:23 GMT -5
My thinking is that if the pistons are too big, once the plugs are in and the compression rises - a ring might be snagging in one of the ports,
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Post by kawonda750 on Sept 13, 2019 10:46:11 GMT -5
Don't part it out. If you decide to dump it, let me know your price. I am not trying to be a vulture here but hate to see good bikes destroyed.
I would agree with Z on this though, look at the bore sizes and piston sizes.
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Post by Walms on Sept 16, 2019 6:46:25 GMT -5
It sure sounds like it’s a compression thing unless you have the wrong reach spark plug and you are mashing them (unlikely but gotta mention it...) When you did your compression check, did you hold the throttle wide open and kick continuously until it didn’t rise anymore? I’m trying to understand why low compression on the gauge but seemingly high compression to kick??? Place some solder strategically in combustion chamber to check the squish as well.
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