paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Feb 15, 2016 18:40:41 GMT -5
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Post by H2 Dude on Feb 15, 2016 22:56:13 GMT -5
I'm not sure Paul What is the kawi id / Hmmm Might have a used H1 rubber insert here to measure.
If they measure 25mm the Suzuki ones should work.I bought my 2 sets off e bay for cheap and I think they were from Paul miller
Suzuki Canada also has them BUT too much money $20-25 ea
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Feb 16, 2016 0:10:35 GMT -5
Thanks ian, i'll check it out. I'm trying to get a head start on my pre-season to-do list!
How's the H2 running?
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Post by JA-Moo on Feb 16, 2016 0:12:24 GMT -5
Many have bought the German rubber mounts, what was your problem?  |
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Feb 16, 2016 10:17:58 GMT -5
The problem is that where the originals are molded to the metal mount tubes which holds up better, the German ones require you to cut the old rubber off and slip them on the metal tubes. They dont hold up because as the cases move and vibrate chew the thrust faces of the rubbers which are fairly thin and loose to the steel mount tubes. The loss of rubber cusion has caused the engine to shift to the left inthe frame, causing my cases lto touch and chafe into the frame mount tabs and right exhaust head pipe to touch the frame. You can actually move the engine side to side in the frame. Pictures to follow.
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Post by JA-Moo on Feb 16, 2016 11:20:41 GMT -5
Seems like some rubberized superglue would be in order.......
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Feb 16, 2016 11:51:21 GMT -5
That may work but I suspect temporarily. Contact with oil will probably lead to issues of swelling and de-bonding especially at the lower rears. I just ordered a set of silent blocks ($15 a piece from Snow City Cycle). I'm going to try my luck with those. I also wonder about the rear lower mounts since they are offset/ eccentric mounted...
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Post by Walms on Feb 16, 2016 12:09:42 GMT -5
The German rubber mounts are just the rubber?? I assumed complete as they are not cheap...
It might've better to mould your own if that's the case... There is a company in Mississauge called Amathane, they sell 2 part liquid urethane fairly cheap. You really only need a vacuum pump to de-gas the stuff after mixing, with that and the urethane primer you'd probably have better than original.
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Post by Ned on Feb 16, 2016 12:22:08 GMT -5
Mine came complete.  |
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Feb 16, 2016 12:42:49 GMT -5
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Post by Ned on Feb 16, 2016 12:43:56 GMT -5
Interesting Walms, i'm going to look into that. I should have clarified re: the German rubbers. You can buy just the rubbers (as I did) or the whole mount (with tubes as pictured above by ned). Ned, do those rubbers slide off? Are they bonded? If not it may be worth looking into an adhesive that is oil/fuel resistant that will bond those. Threebond Grip Glue is the close toil not the same as aviation product made by 3M called "1300" but it is not oil/fuel resistant. There was something that 3M made that was oil/fuel resistant that I don't remember the product name. To be honest, I never tried to remove them. |
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Feb 16, 2016 12:56:08 GMT -5
see edit
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Post by JA-Moo on Feb 16, 2016 13:40:08 GMT -5
The rubberized superglue is what I use to bond viton sheet to my reed blocks, so super harsh environment. And the rubber just tears before the glue lets loose........
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paul
2nd Gear
Posts: 462
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Post by paul on Feb 16, 2016 13:55:12 GMT -5
good to know ja-moo since it's tried and true.
i'm going to see what becomes of the silent block i ordered. i really like walms poly-urethane suggestion. the more i research the more i like what i see.
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Post by lc on Feb 16, 2016 13:59:51 GMT -5
Try 3M 847 glue.I believe it is resistant to gasoline...
J
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