jeffd
2nd Gear
Posts: 230
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Post by jeffd on Dec 24, 2015 14:10:09 GMT -5
I got my rod ends for 20 bucks CDN for both at Princess Auto, cut a bolt head off and ran a die over the other end. I had actually started to make bushings for my shifter and mid way looked over at my sons R6 and R1 and then gave my head a shake(WTF)! LOL I used stepped bolts to fill the hole in the stock arm and splin'd block because the rod ends have a slightly smaller bore. Like a whoar, the 40 year old mechanism was loose well before it hit 40 to be totally worn out! Even loose it basically shifted the same as new. No offense intended to your business venture and quality workmanship but some of us like to do it for ourselves differently, and have it tighter. Just glad someone invented the ball joint! I'm looking at the brake arm pivot and thinking 2 needle bearings and seals. Why don't you offer a rod end service too and expand your business? rt The hole was originally the same size in the splined pivot block but it worn. That's why it was larger than the end holes in the kicker. Yes, the way you did allowed it to be done at home but I doubt it's tighter than what I hand fit. I'm a machinist by trade and have been in the trade for over 35 years. For the brake arm pivot, are you referring to the brake hub where the arm pivots?
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Post by pipe welder on Jan 20, 2016 10:27:47 GMT -5
How hard is the kick starter parts? Do you need carbide tooling?
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Post by rz350ypvs on Jan 20, 2016 11:11:26 GMT -5
Mine drilled very easy with regular bits.
Or are you talking about the replacement parts he supplies?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2016 11:34:48 GMT -5
Not hard metal at all. I used normal metal drills. The shim really helps out too since it adds enough friction to remove any rattle. Rattle from normal vibration will wear the thing out faster. There is usually a worn space between the block and fork so removing this end chuck with a precision steel washer sorts the thing out nicely.
Even with the best radial fit it will still show axial slop unless you dealt with it using a protruding bushing or shim washer to remove axial chuck. If you machined the pin to a slight interference fit that would help too-for a short time till it wears in. Steel on steel is stronger than brass bushings in my mind.
It is a very simple job and anyone can do it. I made the hole in the splined block round first and then turned the pivot bolt to match the new hole dimension (hand fit as they say). Hopefully yours is as easy as mine to drill. Let us know how you make out.
rt
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Post by pipe welder on Jan 20, 2016 15:49:25 GMT -5
Mine drilled very easy with regular bits. Or are you talking about the replacement parts he supplies? Talkin about the kicker parts. Good to hear their not hard. I just assumed they would be hard and the tools are not cheap to work hard material. Like rotortiler said, it is quite a simple fix. Sure beats having it rattle away all day. Nice work Jeff
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