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Post by daffey1 on Mar 25, 2014 11:59:01 GMT -5
lc does have a point here Walms Proper working check valves is going to make tuning easier and the running of the motor cleaner reguardless of the type of oil your going to use. If the delivery system is not working properly then the end result will be a less effecient motor, ie more oil being used.
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Post by Walms on Mar 25, 2014 12:15:42 GMT -5
I'm not arguing that the check valves have no purpose and I've seen plenty of triples smoke like crazy after sitting for only a few hours. If you are one of those guys, an overhaul could be in order. I am curious how cracking pressure would effect a positive displacement pump though... Other than swelling in the lines or pissing back they the pumps seals???
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Post by daffey1 on Mar 25, 2014 12:24:20 GMT -5
Hmmmm good question, I don't know
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Post by lc on Mar 25, 2014 12:40:49 GMT -5
Perhaps the 4.6 psi better "clips" the oil shut off (rather than a drooling shutoff of the 2.2) at the end of the pump's piston pulse? Or maybe increasing line pressure causes some seepage back along the pump piston's sides, so there is less output? Maybe the line swells slightly too. Possibly a total of all these factors.
In any event uprated check valves DO reduce oil consumption/spooge and smoke significantly over tired 40 year old valves, regardless if they seep or not.
Where's Darth (Tom's oil valve partner)? He has likely done experiments relating to this matter..
J
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Post by lc on Mar 25, 2014 12:56:23 GMT -5
The more I think of this, and remembering seeing the slow jerky movement of an air bubble down an oil line (with the pump input lever held at full open pos.) the check valves likely do close after every pump piston pulse.
As such it will be the more immediate valve shutoff of the 4.6 setting that reduces the total oil input into the engine.
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Post by Walms on Mar 25, 2014 13:18:04 GMT -5
Well for sure the pressure is higher in the line! I was not a big fan of Cabbie's oil line setup on the UK board with soft lines daisy chained along the way with a single pump outlet... I was certain he was going to have oil delivery issues, I just wasn't sure if it would ever lead to a failure?
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Post by Walms on Mar 25, 2014 13:20:54 GMT -5
Luckily with the stock thick walked nylon lines with a small cross section, Kawasaki minimized this swelling. In Cabbie's case, I'd be curious if the cylinder with the longest line smokes more?
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Syd
2nd Gear
Posts: 189
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Post by Syd on Mar 25, 2014 15:41:27 GMT -5
Some interesting points indeed and I also agree about updated valves etc. Concerning the oil question, nothing really negative about using Motul 510 2T - Semi Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil in my H2.
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Post by Walms on Mar 25, 2014 15:55:38 GMT -5
The only thing negative IMO would be the cost in comparison to Dino oil. Which might be a concern if allot of miles are put on it.
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Post by lc on Mar 25, 2014 16:12:06 GMT -5
Possibly unknown long term corrosion inhibiting properties, especially if the bike is parked where it "sweats" during the off season.
J
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Post by Walms on Mar 25, 2014 17:25:06 GMT -5
I would imagine the semi synthetic would leave as much of the coveted varnish residue on the motor parts as a motor running straight dyno at a reduced consumption rate.
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Post by miller on Apr 6, 2014 14:59:27 GMT -5
With oilpump, I always used low cost oil and never had any trouble. Not on the Germany Autobahn (120 mph+ touring), Dragracing or roadracing. After switching to premix for roadracing, piston nipped on overrun, braking from topspeed to 40 mph. A change to synthetic solved that prob, prooving that such oil give better protection under extreme conditions. For normal use the lowcost oil, mineral or semi synthetic works just fine in my experience.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2014 9:40:30 GMT -5
My 76 smoked bad with stock pipes and 100 mains. With J&R's, super sized mains it barely smokes at all now. My consumption is twice that of LC's, my pump is turned up a bit past too. I've had to sub oil lines on both my 500's due to a cylinder smoking bad at start up. Smokes a fact of life with these things. Tuning plays a major role in the amount of smoke produced too. I feel my stock pipes were too restrictive, plugged with rust too. My J&R's let it breath again. The rubber lines barely swell at all. Certainly no way to impede the flow. Thats all I've seen on sleds for years is rubber oil inj lines. No worries there. Plus too rubber never gets softer with oil and age. My stock kh is a completely worn out old POS running dino oil. I feel the oil has done its job, and still doing it in an engine that should have been overhauled 10,ooo km's ago. And fast!! theres a few of you out there have my plate number etched into their minds, eating away at them over the winter. LoL
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Post by Walms on Apr 7, 2014 10:10:28 GMT -5
theres a few of you out there have my plate number etched into their minds, eating away at them over the winter. LoL You are a legend in your own mind!
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